Good choice in parts thus far. I would at minimum, clean up the ports on the 2Vs as they can be pretty terrible in the casting. I did that on mine and despite only having only about 3 hours in them, I would guess that they're easily 10% better in flow. A properly cleaned up set of iron 2Vs should be good for 400hp.
Before getting them skimmed, determine what compression you want to run (thus chamber size) and pistons (stock rebuilders or good zero deck ones). The compression number hinges on what cam you are running by figuring out what dynamic compression you actually will have. I have said for a long time, pick your camshaft and build the engine around it.
Upgrade valve springs to suit cam specs, get heads done up and guides machined to suit press-on seals. Up to you if you get the rocker pedestals machined to suit stud mounted rockers, it does allow a bigger selection of rockers but there are decent pedestal mounted ones out there, namely Yella Terra and Scorpion. Stock steel rockers aren't a deal-breaker, they just work the oil harder and can't deal with much above 0.500" lift and/or high spring pressure.
Many folks on here have had good results with the Comp 268 and 274 cams, but for any cam aim for around the 220 mark at 0.050" give or take. I would save up for a retro roller cam in that range only because I've wiped 2 flat tappet cams on my clevo in less than 100,000 km. It's getting harder to find good oil to suit flat tappet cams now.
Your inlet manifold can be the stock iron 4 barrel, but if you can stretch to an Edelbrock air gap that would be a no-brainer. The other good name manifolds are probably only slightly better than the stock one (which isnt bad) but you'll save a lot of weight up top using them. Don't use cheap Chinese ones. They are poorly made clones and they rob the original designers of their hard work. Their cylinder balance will also be poor.
Using the hotrodder's rule for carbys, take target HP and double it to get the CFM you need. So either a 750 vac or pumper will be perfect. These are said to be the sweet spot for size in a square bore carby.
4-into-one headers are obviously ideal but are a tight squeeze in an earlier narrow chassis. Tri-Ys are a good compromise between stock manifolds and proper tuned length 4-1s.
1 horse per cube shouldn't be too hard in this day and age. If you do get it chassis dynoed though, don't be too disappointed by the figures. My 302 gets along ok but didn't even crack 200 hp. I know my cam is drastically holding it back for top-end power but I like the low and midrange it has.
Hi guys, bit of a dig up, have not been active in a very long time... anyway was thinking of dragging the old s pack out of the shed and dumping 351 into it for a bit of fun...
Just wondering, originally a efi six,
What would be the dramas id have,
I know ill need new springs, shocks bushes yatta yatta. and breaks,
Fuel line no idea there or pump. maybe a holley blue or something,
to paint the picture i have a reasonable 351 thats been sitting forawhile, its 30 thou over flat top pistons, from memory its got a 850 holley on it, 2v close chambers etc. maybe mild 300 hp maybe less.
i suspect the rego would be a nightmare so before i commit to blowing some money just want some good opinions, and this would be a better option then the old facebook ha!
