Gold XR

Hey mate, Thanks, I have seen some of his videos on YouTube. I will reach out to him. Cheers

I'm in need of some advice on replacing the sill panel on my XR. Who makes the best quality sill panels for the falcons? I've been considering Rare Spares, but I'm open to other suggestions. Also, if you have any experience replacing sill panels, I'd love to hear your tips and tricks too.

A few more options C&M engineering- Canberra - Authorised Baer Brakes Dealer https://www.candmengineering.com.au/copy-of-68-73-mustang Steet or Track - US http://www.streetortrack.com/Brakes-c-103.html Savy motor sport - Victoria https://savymotorsport.com.au/product-category/brakes/brake-caliper-mounts-and-kits/

I agree, most of the kits you see for sale in the Australia are one of these two kits: 6 spot https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-12945-DR&year=1970&make=Ford&model=Falcon&option=Disc+Brake+Spindle 4 spot https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-15406-DR&year=1970&make=Ford&model=Falcon&option=Disc+Brake+Spindle The main issues most people have with these kits is that the calipers flex and the rotor is narrower than the standard one. The other thing I'm not a big fan of withe these kits is how they mount to the disk spindle. The holes they use for mounting the caliper are 3 bolts for the heat shielding. I just dont know if the standard spindles are designed to take a load like that. But this kit look a lot better and uses a completely different caliper and uses the standard mounting holes. https://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront?itemno=140-10220-DR&year=1970&make=Ford&model=Falcon&option=Disc+Brake+Spindle I have not seen any reviews from Australia on this kit but It look a lot better to me. The only issues are that you have to run a minimum of 17"s Crazy 2287 is this similar to what you ordered and what application were you going to use them?

I would love to read more about this, do you have any pictures or links? I take it that you would need 17's?

Hi Greg, Im fairly sure the XY has done the Shelby drop, I think he might of even gone 11/2" from memory of what he told me. I have never heard of the aforementioned sway bar issue. I will have to do some googling / reading! When you say I would benefit from smaller diameter wheels/tyres is that purely due to lower ride height or is there other benefit. Cheers Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hi Bear, At one stage I had crazy ideas about doing a 3 link rear, but I feel the set up I have works really well. The car makes some decent power and even when I used to have 225 street tyres it actually hooked up out of corners pretty well. I very rarely have issues with axel hop and with the 255/40/17's if gets off the line real well. I don't know of any chassis shops near by. Why is that? Cheers for your help! Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hi Greg, Cheers heaps for the advice. You are correct, the XY has 225/50/15's all round that have a side wall of 112mm (looked up a tyre size calculator) and I have 235 40 17's on the front with a side wall of 94mm. But I still think I need abit more neg camber because you can see were the tyre was rolling over onto the triangle markers on the outer side wall, but on the inner edges I had about 4mm to the markers. There would of been close to 10mm difference from inside to outside. Looking at the two different tyre sizes and my fronts would only account for 6.5mm of extra height. I would of thought it would of been more than that. The rears would be 13.5mm higher (255/40/17) I did the 1" shelby drop about 10 years ago so I don't remember it all but I do remember that I had to massage the towers to even achieve 1". I had a balljoint wedges made up because the balljoints were binding before hitting the bump stop. I also modified the bump stop mountings in board slightly so the arm hit it the same spot because it was hitting on a edge. Interesting what you are saying about the sway bar, I will definitely look into that and see what options I have. Might do a bit of experimenting. Im not running a sway bar on the back at all. I do feel the car handles well, it dose under steer a little mid corner if I really push it but it is very gradual and controlable. I actually found running 2psi lower pressure in the front fixes this but my times are a little slower. But that could be inconsistency in my driving. To start with I might try cutting the springs and see how that goes. (Have not done that since high school.) Then make sure I still have ample travel and nothing binds. Thanks heaps Ryan Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hi Guys Im after some advice in regards to setting my XR falcon for track duties. Currently the car has a 1" Shelby drop, Xf spindles, Clevo King springs in the front (think they are lows) GT leaf pack with a added rebound spring, konis all round and a 28mm sway bar up front. I have entered it into a few hill climbs and have done fairly well, but I want to start doing some track days. I was told buy another guy that races a XY (it is stupid quick) that I really need to lower my car, dial about 3' of neg camber and use 700 pound springs in the front. I feel that my car is already fairly low but his is heaps lower but I don't understand stand how he gets his car to sit so low. Would need significant modifications I would think. What do you think the optimal height would be for a dedicated track car? Dose 700 pound springs sound about right and were would I go to get springs like that. Sorry for all the newbie questions Cheers, Ryan Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk