OLM8

They just be wishing it was them in it ,,
that’s all . 
 
 

I get a kick out of this thing only costing me “beer money”

It’s not pretty up close, unrestored , original,
50 year old crazed thin and shitty paint etc

It’s not everyone’s cup of tea,

and I get that.

Out and about driving in traffic most fancy XY GT guys don’t even wave back.

The old Holden blokes do haha


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Thanks! geez I’m learning everyday.

My car still has the steelies that we’re on it when it was dragged off the farm.

Still has the same spark plugs in it to. Haha

gave it all “a tidy” and put some rego on it

It’s a budget car.
It’s cost me peanut money.




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I get a kick out of this thing only costing me “beer money”

It’s not pretty up close, unrestored , original,
50 year old crazed thin and shitty paint etc

It’s not everyone’s cup of tea,

and I get that.

Out and about driving in traffic most fancy XY GT guys don’t even wave back.

The old Holden blokes do haha


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yeah, seen the different "class" of people in various makes and models.. even with My gemini.. there's the "coupe people" , modified or riced up, the original restored and the daily shitbox(which both of mine resemble ) 
i get plenty of people wanting to chat about them, which i am not always in the mood for haha

Thanks! geez I’m learning everyday.

My car still has the steelies that we’re on it when it was dragged off the farm.

Still has the same spark plugs in it to. Haha

gave it all “a tidy” and put some rego on it

It’s a budget car.
It’s cost me peanut money.




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i'd love something like that. 
 
i had an XR wagon at one stage, it's probably the only cleveland V8 car i regret selling. 
the neighbor to My parents place only had 2 cars the whole 20yrs i was there,  a white XW wagon almost same as yours and a blue XF wagon (he kept the XW when he bought the XF) no idea what happened to them when he passed but both were extremely well looked after, always under a carport and did a caravan trip here and there otherwise only local driving. 
 
 

Steelies don't need to be hub-centric as they are thin and are clamped by the nuts very close to where the stud comes out of the hub. Alloys need to be hub-centric as the wheel nuts sit further out from the hub due to the wheel centre being thicker and would have a greater load moment on the studs without having a means of centring it.

Steelies also aren't manufactured with the precision of alloys so it would be hard to produce them with a centre bore that's consistently accurate enough to allow them to centre on the hub as alloys do.

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Thanks for that info

It’s definitely XY width.


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I have larger centre 12 slot rims
70mm dia I think they are


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That's a definite score.. Most 2.77s got thrown out because nobody wanted highway gears for their muscle car.

2.77 should give just a smidge over 2200 at 100km/h. Depends on what wheels/tyres you're running too.

If you want to bring the rpm down even more, tyre it up a bit. If running 15" rims, then a Bridgestone Dueler HT might be the go in 205/70R15. I scored a pair and mounted up on 6" alloys easily. 14" is hard to get rubber for these days.

The good old 250 has plenty of torque off the mark, so tall gears shouldn't worry it. My Cortina actually felt quicker with a taller diff because you spent less time changing gears.

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revs would be around 2300rpm at 100. 
single rail and a reasonable 250 will love it
 
i don't remember seeing a 2.77 in XY width, check the hub center size on the axle if you have early wheels(changed around 1976 to a bigger bore in the wheels) 

What’s the 2.77 highway diff like to drive ?? Rpm at 100km?

with a 250 6cyl and SR 4 speed Is it way to “over geared” for that engine ?

I did some asking around in the last few days and sure enough..

Got myself a 2.77 XY Diff fully complete , for the cost of a couple of boxes of beer.




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What’s the 2.77 highway diff like to drive ?? Rpm at 100km?

with a 250 6cyl and SR 4 speed Is it way to “over geared” for that engine ?

I did some asking around in the last few days and sure enough..

Got myself a 2.77 XY Diff fully complete , for the cost of a couple of boxes of beer.




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If we're talking xflow then you're spot on. My ute was about 2600 (maybe a little higher) when it was 3sp with the 3.23 diff.
Sits under 2000rpm now with the T5 (late model box so has a different 5th ratio to earlier T5s).
@Panko and I have done comparisons before, his old 2.77 diff with early T5 and my 3.23 diff with late T5 resulted in almost identical rpm at 100km/h.




3sp manual Falcons only had 3.23 or 3.5 diff ratios from factory.
I think all Ghias (sedan & wagons) got 2.77, at least in XF. Probably same for Fairlane/LTD.

Maybe you could choose the ratio of you ordered one new depending on your driving style/choice? Hence the lack of consistency.

it should be findable in XE and XF falcon(wagon)  with leaf springs, 
it seems more common in XE and XF sedans for whatever reason. and fairlane/ltd of same (coil springs)
i haven't seen a combo that was consistent with ford.. seen My brothers 3.3 XF auto with 2.77 ratio, and i've had 2.92 and 2.77 in many others(i've owned HEAPS of XD XE XF over the last 25yrs up till about 5yrs ago) wrecked a few for parts also.
 

Easy way would be to fully degrease and scrub the whole area ,,
like real finicky like .
then a short run would show the area it’s coming from ,,
speed and fans etc will “ move “ leaks from places , Ie blow crap everywhere ,,
so take good note of the leaks origins 

Yeah sorry I just read it properly, it might work. I would call that the input shaft bearing retainer, or just the "snout".

I seem to remember you could possibly dodgy up a T5 to use a SR snout if you drill 4 new holes around the perimeter, maybe the old 3 speed snout is similar to this?

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I was meaning not the whole input shaft but the small nose housing that the clutch throw out runs on.

If that can be bolted / transferred straight from the 3 speed to the 4 speed box.

There would be no need to either enlarge the Center hole of the bell or turn down the nose housing on the 4 speed.

Due to it already being a match from the 3 speed bell.

that’s how I understood it
could be wrong


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not the input shaft, the thrust race slide/front bearing support?  whatever it's called.

I like the idea of possibly swapping the input snout from the 3 to the 4


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you could run a tape measure along the 3 speed from bell to tailshaft yoke, same for single rail.  if same length that will  be easy.
with the diff, you might be able to find an XR to XY auto diff, i would think they'd be 2.92.  already, or you can swap ratios.. usually costs a bit.. due to new bearings etc. $500 ish? @chestnut has had this done more than anyone lately
 
you might be able to take off front nose of the single rail and 3 speed and swap them if lucky or take the 4 speed one to be turned down (easier than bell housing possibly) drilling the hole should be simple enough
 

yes, but wait there's more..
 
the single rail doesn't directly bolt to the 3 speed,(can't remember if it's only one bolt that doesn't or 3 of the 4?) you'll need the 4 speed (or T5 one) clutch plate, because the splines are different on the input shaft. 
 
yeah USA sourced S10 T5 shifter setup, i have only seen one done into a cortina and that was so long ago i'd never find or remember what the story was..
 
can't remember if the 3 speed tailshaft is same as the 4 speed @Thom, may know?  got a feeling the splines may be different not sure on the length.

with the single rail, you also need the extension housing from the cortina, and the rail, i think the shifter setup itself might be same(have seen someone mount it on a plate further forward though by cutting the selector rail and just moving the shifter part of a falcon one.. more fun with mods)
 
 
 

i'd estimate the 3.23 diff would be around 2600rpm at 100kmh. 
with a 2.92 and same box would get it down to 2350 ish
 
the overdrive on a T5 with the 3.23 would be around 2000rpm. 
i've had the 2.92 and 2.77 with T5 and it's closer to 1800.. 

the difference is, it didn't make any(or much at all) difference to fuel economy and the main noticable difference is NOISE at highway speeds. 
 
if you are going to use a single rail, be sure to replace the selector rail seal, 99.5% of the time these are flogged out and leaking oil. (i've bought a few cars that didn't leak a drop.. because they were EMPTY of oil ) remove extension housing to replace,  need to knock a roll pin out of the gearshift end of the shaft  to remove..
 
the other thing to note is the XB diff is wider, not HEAPS wider than an XR-XY diff, but if you have deep dish wheels now, you should measure the drum to drum width and check.. they do fit with stock wheels, not sure on wide ones.

also depends if you have a bench seat, if so.. the single rail with cortina housing will fit better with that, i'm sure you'd need to chop the seat up a bit for a T5 or even falcon single rail stick location. 
 
i reckon the ratios are perfect with a 2.92 diff and 4 speed . (that said, a T5 is much the same, with the addition of 5th you can pretty much only use at 100kmh with this ratio)
 
with the 3.23 diff, you row through the gears quicker, this is different if you've fitted a bigger cam that revs higher happily(most  stock ones run out of puff around 4000)  

lots to consider
is the single rail bell housing a hydraulic one also? they came in 3 different configurations so to speak (hydraulic, cable on the drivers side pre unleaded, and cable on the left due to space for the cat on the unleaded)  
 
if it was Me,  i'd keep all the bits regardless. can always swap and change later.
 
 
 
 

I'd say it's that plus the fact that you have to wring its neck in 1st gear and slam it into 2nd just to keep up with traffic. If you rev it right out in 1st then 2nd gear syncro has a really hard time slowing the clutch and geartrain down again. If the diesel box has a shorter 1st, then there's also a greater rpm difference and again the syncros need to work harder.  
A better way of driving is to just get the vehicle moving at walking pace in 1st then upshift into 2nd. Also, you can be much easier on syncros if you feather the throttle, pop it into neutral, pause then push the clutch in. This is like double-clutching without pushing it in the first time. Truck driving teaches you this method, short of using no clutch at all (ie: Roadranger, etc)
 
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