X-D_ejaVu

You can never hurt anything but your wallet with roller rockers, but stock rockers aren't a deal-breaker at 0.500" lift. You will need valve springs at a minimum, seeing as they are very ordinary even with a standard cam. Having a more aggressive ramp on the lobe will amplify any lack of spring pressure.

You may run into issues with pushrod length with the base circle taken off, by how much I dunno but to compensate, I guess you could either run valve lash caps or take a bit off the rocker pedestals. If you choose to go with 7/16” stud adjustable roller rockers, that will let you take up this clearance, but that will need machining of the head. All this is extra expense just to run a cam that will have questionable benefit to power. False economy if you ask me. Unless there's an absolute must-do reason why you have to run it, I would pass on it.

It would ultimately be cheaper, and result in more power and torque, to go with a mild aftermarket cam that's compatible with stock valvetrain components. So, still around 0.500" lift like the one you have, but longer duration and overlap. Build for midrange to capitalise on where the crossy's going to be happy. Something like a 214/214 @0.050", with a nice overlap aiming for a 110 LSA but no more than 0.500" lift to keep your springs and rockers happy.

Roller rockers aren't a power-adder like the manufacturer's always harp on about. This has been proven many times on a dyno. They're insurance against premature wear or breakage when you start going bigger with everything else (springs, valves, cam lift, pushrods), so if you don't need them, don't get them. They'll offer a very poor hp-per-dollar return on your project.

For a first engine, keep things conservative and focus on proper assembly, maximising what stock parts you have, and aim for 15-20% power increase maximum. Balance rods and pistons, shave flywheel, bump up compression a tad. Crossys are pretty lazy in the rpm department so make them work where they're happy; between 2000-4500. The only internal component besides cam that I would change is valvesprings.

Cam: look at crow's catalogue as a guide and look down the column at hydraulic grinds at around the 0.500" lift, then from there choose your duration. I think a stock speedway cam is a good warm streeter with not too much lift but lopey idle and midrange punch.

Springs: stock ones barely test at 80 pounds on the seat. The next step up would be around 110 which would be more than adequate for a warm street engine.

Your mate giving you that cam might be a nice gesture but you'll spend big dollars getting it to work for little gain over stock.

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Prepped for new rust? 

I am running  K.Y.B  short stroke  in front been in for 3 years no probs yet.

Prepped for new rust? 

Rag joints need to be riveted with new pins intalled. Those parts alone are upwards of $150, but I cut n shut one off a manual onto my power steer coupling. The pins are only there as a safety measure if the rag joint failed (unlikely)

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pedders quotes for old falcons can be ridiculous, excess of $2000 easy.. this is because the labour in particular kills it.
for eg, the rear springs fitting on my gemini was quoted at $88(1hr i think)
i said i can do them in less than 10mins.. not paying $90 for 10mins work(gemini springs.. undo shock lower end, lower diff, springs come out..  refit is just as quick. 
 
but they have a "NO BULL" policy, i have always been able to be shown the wear while it's on the hoist.  might be because i always wear work boots and look like i know what i'm on about?  
 
the key think i've learned with dealing with them for 20yrs is say, i'm not in a postion to do everything right now, but i want to fit tyres, what's needed immediately for a wheel alignment to hold.. 
then you'll see the change to.. well, you'll get away with the control arm bushes worn for a while, but the caster bushes are falling apart, need them, 2 ball joints and idler arm(idler arms don't last long.. might be due to being lowered also)
shocks etc won't affect wheel alignment/tyre wear much.. but they make the car feel much safer when they are ok.. 

another tip.. 
as Mr Polson touched on, if you don't go super lows springs, you can get away with much cheaper standard shocks, which have a bonus of being a comfy ride rather than a choppy sports type ride.. (personally i prefer the best shocks in the budget, you do notice the difference in driving confidence, almost as much as decent tyres)
 
you can do a lot of the work yourself, grab a gregorys manual, and a $120 ratchet set and you'll get 80% of the easy stuff done on your own time.

before i bought the $30 socket big enough for castor bars, i used to pay pedders to fit them(the nut is big, and tight all the way, ugga duggas on a rattle gun make it quick work)
changing a pitman arm is also a job i get them to do, for similar reasons.. quick job with the right tools.
and if you are replacing the rag joint on the steering box, i'd consider farming that job out also(power steering one is painful, not sure on the manual one)
 
 
 

All good advice gents, I'll add to that with how to check the various joints and pivots for wear.

First you have to establish that there is in fact play in the system, and that you're not just feeling sidewall flex from the old high profile tyres. Open the window and shake the steering left to right while watching the rim on the driver's side. You can see that the rim will move but the tyre tread lags behind. This will contribute to a sloppy feel. I like to go as high in pressure as the tyres will handle (often written on the load rating on the tyre). This will increase road feel.

Start by putting the car on ramps or blocks. The wheels should be at ride height.

It's really a 2-person job, so get your Mrs or one of your kids to wiggle the steering left and right to take up the slack in the system. They'll need to be prepared to do this for as long as it takes to check all the joints that affect steering slop.

All joints will need to be checked using this wiggle method.

Start inspecting at the box. Watch the input from the rag joint and feel the output from the Pitman Arm. If there is a delay in movement as the coupling turns left to right, there is play in the box. Adjust as described above. Also check the mounting bolts for tightness.

Pitman Arm joint wear will show as movement in the arm before the drag link moves. Detect by placing fingers on both components and feel for excessive movement. Replace Pitman Arm if needed.

Inner and outer tie rod joints will be the same, detect play by using same method as above. Outer rod ends often wear more than inners due to their proximity to debris and water thrown up by the wheel and the range of movement.

Bottom ball joint may also present as worn with side-to-side steering movement but it is better to lever back and forth with a large screwdriver to check. Wear in this joint will often show as vagueness while changing direction.

Top joint won't show any symptoms as it is always under load. The only truly correct way of detecting wear in this one is to take the load off the rest of the suspension while containing the load in the spring, either with a spring compressor or a block between the chassis and the top arm. This unloads the top joint so you can check it at correct ride height (where it will wear the most). If doing the lower joints, you would replace the uppers as a matter of course.

Radius rod bushes can also contribute to sloppiness but only while on the move and detectable with movement in the back and forth direction. Wear in these bushes will give excessive squirm under brakes due to the loss of castor effect at the wheels, as well as vagueness in steering response.

Lastly, a simple one but often overlooked is wheel bearings. Jack up and check for play, adjust if needed. If the grease is really dirty, they'll likely need replacing.

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Steering box - they can be adjusted and tightened up, there's a nut/screw on the top of that which allows for adjustment.

Is it loose in straight ahead/just as you turn position? Or the whole way through the turning? A manual box will wear out in the straight ahead position the quickest.

As Dean said, I just had mine replaced in my XF, with a reco exchange unit through Repco.
Worth doing the Pitman Arm if you replace the box. Also check the condition of the flexible coupling that connects the steering box to the column. If it needs replacing I'd try to track down an original type, not urethane for manual steer.



Front end - have a look at your tie rods, ball joints and bushes. If the ball joints are riveted into the upper and lower control arms they're original, and probably due for replacement. Have fun getting the rivets out.

Tie rods, if they're worn replace them, and make sure you get decent ones - ask Dean about his incident with eBay ones. I recommend WASP ball joints/tie rods.

Bushes - you should be able to see how stuffed they are. Few cracks in them doesn't mean they're stuffed but if they're missing any chunks I'd be replacing. Particularly your lower inner control arm bushes - they control camber, and the radius rod bushes under the front radiator support.

I've got a full Nolathane front end under both my XFs and have had no issues. They also now do a "classic" bush which is black instead of the normal red, which looks more original.



Lowering - my XF ute is lowered 2.5" with Kings in the front and blocks in the back. My wagon is lowered 1.5" with Pedders front and blocks in back.
2.5 looks good but is definitely bumpier on the road and will need shortened shocks and short/cut bump stops.
1.5 retains a lot of road comfort, doesn't need shortened bump stops - is on the limit for shortened shocks (I have them).
Make sure you get a wheel alignment after lowering if you do.

for Me, lowered falcons don't drive well if they are lower than say Pedders or King Lows or lovells etc. 
 
the biggest DIFFERENCE you'll notice will be nolathane sway bar links, best cheap mod.. (other than non rooted parts)
 
i'd check everything, if you have a pedders there, get a check.. "worn" doesn't mean replace it, ask if they'd do a wheel alignment with the worn parts.. that determines if they NEED replacing. 
 
steering box is adjustable, and it can be topped up with whatever they take(oil i think) @Mr Polson recently replaced his worn manual steering box. might give some pointers
 
i don't trust CHEAP PARTS there's a thread here of my experience