deankxf
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Posts posted by deankxf
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pretty cool P Clip nutsert trick.
good progress, guess a seat will be next so you can remember how it feels
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1 hour ago, Rayinsydney said:Spoke to my upholsterer on Friday who was doing a headlining for another of my cars, he reckons it’s pretty easy to drop the seat height , by taking foam out, also the rails can be modded with the correct engineering apparently, so it looks like a good project to sort out!
if he's happy to share the process and you are happy to show it, i think it would be good to see what's done and what the approximate cost is.
very time consuming work doing seat trims/repairs/mods. the last quote i got was fairly extreme, so i ended up looking for and finding a good passenger seat and swapped the foam and trim over myself.
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8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:To my knowledge, adjustable steering column's only became available, in the XF Fairmont era, onwards.
they only go LOWER, be worse for tall people .
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18 minutes ago, XCeed said:Well you learn something new every day. They are the same.
Well what about one of these:
(chain steering wheel)
Heaps of leg room underneath
yeah i never knew the XC GXL wheel was oval, i had one once. (XC GS 6cyl, bought it and resold due to not liking it.. weirdo lol)
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23 minutes ago, XCeed said:Would an XC GS/GXL steering wheel do the trick. As you can see, they are not round. The bottom half has a smaller radius allowing for more leg space.
The price people are asking might be cheaper/ less hassle than modifying your seats or buying new ones. This is on Marketplace in Adelaide for $550.
the XE/XF ones are similar not round shape also. (unless fairlane/ghia/ltd etc)
XCeed reacted to this -
have a look to see if the seats have a spacer between the rails and the seat base. that's about 1/2 an inch black plastic spacer.
other than that with stock seats you'll have to modify the rails.
recaros and other sports seats you sort of sit IN, but i don't know of any that are a direct fit other than the ESP Scheels which cost a fortune .
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1 hour ago, Crebe said:I had a look and they have aftermarket i think AU217B353A. So i just put my seal in the diff for the pinion and I think I have stuffed up! I knocked it in nice and square but put it all the way in. Should i have only made it flush with the front of the diff housing, not all the way in? By the look of it the pinion yoke may not wat to go into it now. Jesus why do i think of the when its too late? HELP
2 available on ebay $100 buy now plus $9.70 post has it listed as genuine.
second hand one for $30 plus $15 post
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30 minutes ago, Crebe said:. Also he said they are not available for the EB
If you are talking about the speedo sender. They are same from XF to at least EL and probably AU.. there'd be no problem finding a used one.
New not sure. I might look on ebay out of interest
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1 hour ago, Crebe said:Hello. I have a n EB XR8 auto im my 66 xr utr. I am trying to replace the extension housing seal and bush but cant get to some of the 4 bolts. One in perticular (right side or drivers side top) has a thingy with wires comming out of it rite in the road of where i need to get a socket onto it. It has a longish m5 or m6 bolt holding it onto the box. Anyone know what it is and can i just take the bolt out and remove it. Also is anything need to be aligned or other lose parts inside ready to escape.
tried to upload a shot but as usual technoligy failed me again!
this image will expire any day or so, i got it from ebay (right click, copy image address and paste her on pc)
that red covered wire from where you describe is the speedo sender, just undo and remove the bolt, and the whole speedo drive will pull out of the extension housing (careful with the wires, they like to snap off right close to the sender itself)
there's nothing in there that will fall out, try to keep it clean inside naturally (clean the outside as best as possible)
SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
5 hours ago, Thom said:if being very careful you may be able to bend the bbm dip stick to fit the log manifold but some butchery may have to happen to the mounting bracket
Butchery was mentioned
i think a wrecker trip will be needed..
Thom reacted to this -
asking here, because i did a search for "dipstick" in this thread and it didn't come up.
(hindsight, it might be "dip stick"
anyway, What do you need to do with the dipstick tube if using an EF engine (had BBM) in an XG (using the log manifold)
and you've thrown out the XG engine already.. to pillage the correct one.
(asking for a mate, apparently it doesn't work with the log manifold)
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1 hour ago, cisco said:
Dean can you tell me who does the reflector reconditioning? Is it a specialty thing or common with the likes of auto sparkies or an accessory shop?
the mob that did My lights above were proper pains to deal with, they wanted me to post either way rather than drop in, but i had a BUNCH of them being done .. so did it in person, they said ready to pick up , and when i went there they weren't on site.. were ready at another location i wasn't allowed to go to, but hadn't arrived at the place i dropped them off.. so had to go back again. also when i originally dropped them off i asked clearly what's the cost of getting these done, (good ones and bad ones) to get an idea if they'd be wanting to do them for the forum members.. vague answers, beating around the bush.. ended up DOING the rough ones then charging me for them even though they "needed a lot of work, so xyz more cost" . i'd have declined doing those on the grounds i could have found better ones. communication was POOR.
the results were good, and the process THIS mob used was EXACTLY the same as Brand new cars headlights (painted gloss 2 pack black i think then painted in super shiny chrome paint @SPArKy_Dave has posted videos up somewhere before of the process)
the previous mob, @Mr Polson has a pair of, and they were done by a mob that FAKE chrome plated (aluminium?) PLASTICS for coffins, (all fancy chrome that can be burned)
these i also had in My XF for over a year and were amazing, although the finish isn't as durable (it's likely what FORD used though in the XFs? i can't recall)
if you scroll up on this page, there are 2 people doing XD and XE ones, these are metal and do a different process (chrome plated)
these guys won't do the XF ones due to .... " aftermarket lights are good enough and still available"in My experience, if you fit the Ford GLASS to the chinese repro lights they work ok (half as good as reco'd originals) (twice as good as chinese glass ones) (4 times better than worn out orginals with no reflector left)
i did all kinds of mixing and matching at the time, and if you have a RISK Attitude more than just swapping the glass (risky in itself... spray WD40 on the clips/glass and try SLIDE the clips forward rather than dig them off ...you'll see when you try just one even)
removing the reflectors is by pulling them on the areas where they clip in(3 locations with a ball and socket) some of the repros had different size ball and socket and they can't be fitted to the FORD housing. well not unless the sockets can unscrew. the ford ones some were screwed, some riveted.. they are brittle and snap easy.. (RISK attitude tester)
if you can manage to fit the ford sockets to the repro reflectors and clip them into the ford housing with ford glass.. This is a GOOD OPTION. .. not without many risks.
the mob i used above were called DECORENGINEERING or ECOCHROME both links to the websites no longer work
the ones prior were Zues products, and they said they are no longer doing headlights well before i tried decorengineering too fiddly not worth the effort
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probably have to buy a whole seat set (ideally only left one and swap the foams also, less wear)
there were some cars that had one square meter of seat trim behind the seat back(perhaps it was just the ones with the rear arm rest?).
THESE SOLD FAST
so i suggest you join a few facebook pages, put the word out you are looking even.
nearly 30yrs ago i got that seat trim replaced on mine with NEW old stock material, i can't remember if Global Trim have it these days?
XES 384 reacted to this -
2 hours ago, wok said:Ok thanks
This is what I thought
Might just use the BW35 auto trans instead, now need to fan up something to hook up the column shift to the BW35 (it's in a LHD 64 US Falcon)....should be fun
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cable might be easier there.
mates rambler rebel had cable from the steering box location (ford location at firewall) to the trans) -
8 hours ago, MrFathead said:I guess worse case is it would fail when you are trying to park the car when it is under full load, probably not when you are cruising at speed.
I will keep an eye on it when it is installed in the car and see how it goes.
I will brush some black paint on it so that it doesn't get all crusty, but it kind of looks awesome bare not that anyone ever sees it either way.
i've seen a couple of these a few years old and they were still mint. one on a falcon, one on my gemini.
the old rag joint one my gemini had was all haggard and looked like it would fall apart just taking the coupling off the rack.. (have seen them completely rooted on gemini and falcon) but even though it looked stuffed, it was a really strong thing and extremely difficult to cut even so i could grind the rivets out.. (30+ years old)
i'd be surprised if these type last 10yrs and are still safe, find out i guess. they definitely work.
MrFathead reacted to this -
8 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:word of safety advice -
I'd never run a polyurethane steering coupler under any circumstances. (as you've pictured)
Poly tends to split and crumble with age, and they're not fibre reinforced either.
IMO, they should not be offered for sale, in that application.
I'd suggest to fit a new reinforced rubber steering coupler instead.
i think that's the REASON they have such long bolts in these kits, if/when it falls to bits the bolts will at least still be in the steering column slots(the gemini one is the same, aftermarket poly type has super long bolts for this reason)
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44 minutes ago, wok said:Anyone know what paint code Z186 would be ? That's what's on my utes ID tag. Ute is currently AU blueprint and will stay that way but nice to know more about the car originally
Pretty sure Z was white but the 186 part could that mean different roof colour or just different shade ?
This ute is a journey of discovery
Thanks warren
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might be a fleet colour?
didn't come up in my google/search
could try ring 13ford for a verification letter and it might say
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47 minutes ago, wok said:Excellent, thanks for help, hooked up as mentioned and everything now works, can switch hot / cold and change air output from windscreen to face to feet. Another job sorted thanks to forum !
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nice to know i can still remember enough of it.
Free.51 reacted to this -
33 minutes ago, wok said:found the diagrams for 6 cylinder xd/xe
they'd be same for V8 basically
basically put that black hose on the vac port with the brake booster, T piece would work, the later cars (XD -XE would have had the plastic one due to vacuum heater stuff, XC was cable)
the 6cyl vac port if it doesn't crumble on removal would work, i would get a new one or a t piece if the one on it now is brass (plastic is easily broken)
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1 hour ago, wok said:thanks for the replies, the is XE previous 6 cylinder now with clevo and has XG dash and i assume heater. (also has xg front clip) the previous owner or mechanic workshop has drilled and tapped the manifold above the #8 cylinder and pulled heater tap vacuum from there...wtf !...will be disconnecting that, now to rework the vacuum lines
where do the heater hoses come out of the fire wall? low down or high up? silver one is XD or XE position, (some are angled, some side by side)
1 hour ago, wok said:With the XG heater box/control, the hot/cold dial on the dash moves a lever behind the glove box, so is that just a blend door ? to mix hot and cold air to get desired temp inside cabin ? if so i assume this also controls the vacuum to the actual heater tap, i have a green skinny vac line and i think orange coming from the firewall into engine bay, both disconnected at this point. the other thing it apepars they have disabled the ability to stiwtch from screen, to face to feet, again i assume this is vacuum conttrolled
The clevo appears to be an earlier blue block and have most of the original vacuum tree missing (prob why the drilled the manifold).
the green wire goes to the heater tap, i think if it's disconnected the heater tap is always flowing water, and only stops when the vacuum is on it (can't remember but pretty sure)
that lever behind the glove box has a vacuum switch on it, that probably releases the heater tap as soon as you move it a bit (cold = heater tap off, anything else, heater tap open, i don't see how it can be variable but it might be?)
the vacuum for the entire dash from the engine bay is black, they often pulled out of the connector in behind the glovebox, i've had to glue in a few. see if it's lost in there. as that will be needed for the face/feet/ heater .. everything.orange one? unless orange is an XG version of the black XF one? i can't remember, there was a white one that didn't seem to be needed.
fairly sure there was a vacuum diagram somewhere on this forum. i won't have time to check any time soon.not sure what you mean by the clevo rear vacuum tree, it was on the rear for brake booster and some other vacuum(assume C10 trans modulator)
front one would be for vac advance on dissy..
the other trees the later clevos had were mainly for the thermo quad carby.. aka don't open 4 barrels when cold and other similar things pollution related (heat riser flap on air cleaner intake like the XE six had)
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53 minutes ago, 85 XF Ghia said:fuses are good, and the 2 plugs in the cluster are connected.
they were prone to corrosion on the terminals inside, and cracked solder joints.
so consider dismantling it or sending it off to someone if you can't figure it out.
there may be some more replies with things to check, but if nothing lights up at all i haven't seen that issue before. -
i don't recall having that issue, would suspect a fuse or plug not plugged into the dash correctly (2 plugs on them)
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i don't think it would make much difference if any which way was in/out at the firewall, i'd just make the hose runs from the engine and choose the neatest path. put the heater tap in the correct direction(arrow on it) in the supply line before the firewall, and the return one goes straight to the water pump unless i'm mistaken.
you'd need it for any rwc/V8 mechanical report anyway.
Tall bloke vs Steering wheel
in Interior and Car Audio
Posted
cool, let us know if there's a spot to relocate the mount point.(via drilling a new hole)
i didn't really think of this in the falcons, but had considered it in the gemini i have (drilling the holes in the seat further back, but it will put strain on the mounting, maybe add a 3rd bolt if you can on the rail to seat?)
i think the ford rails are strong enough for this, (i've seen cracked ones, but i reckon that was due to work hardening, high kms cars ) plus the BUM part wouldn't be past the end of the rail, but you'd get a fair bit of leverage on the seat back pulling on the front mountings.