deankxf

1 minute ago, Adrian853 said:

I’ve cleaned up the EFI tank as best I can and put a Walbro 255lph pump in there…

looks good, 

i've seen some with the internals rusted completely way

5 hours ago, bear351c said:

The 4 small hoses are part of the Emissions recovery system. Early XA/XB sedans, coupes etc didn't have them, late XB and the XC did. I've plugged mine of in the XA. 

Looks like a fuel return line next to the filler hose.?? 

the one next to the filler is to stop splash back when filling from memory (goes up to the steel part of the filler) might be related to the unleaded restrictor in the filler neck even. 

return line is on the fuel sender/pump thing (smaller one)

5 hours ago, fotz said:

also any ideas for an accelerator cable, impossible to find an e series or au v8 cable anywhere…

this is marked as used, but it looks pretty good in the packet, 

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/235559411647?itmmeta=01HXPAC30PDXG0VH3944PKT6PY&hash=item36d86f5fbf:g:phEAAOSwVKBmPzj~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8LaeB87bETlBzaMvWuhdX254PraVwnCPF4iKvKDUoMLQda40sL3kSGdqiynumLBPmyV6G7IsXo5P3W8nnnXOXbIviS%2Bs6EJ49OeXAdGuigfNn5LIvcYPBTmXC3wrr8Fz2kyYDkjDyGkvhShzx9KFtG75wBLdQDA2vAUemgvpPc7fsPG%2BtQM%2Br9rrc2k18HWzTkkPLu0rp6A%2Bt5gHd7HGQLlXHp8DdtIRy9OjjmFECfPMEB7gxFHQpHiEcf%2BBu2a87%2FRj4xoGIRMhLFUcBD2UqzAcbIoamBIgF5jdQuQmSGLPa1u9VEUFgxOUB87HEDLWDg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR7awsMrtYw

2 hours ago, fotz said:

AU XR8 end looks like this.

 

 

mate of mine said get the late XF or XG pedal (basically 1988 ute onwards) and an AU V8 cable should fit it. (if you can find one)

as Sparkydave said above, i'd consider a custom cable, they are reasonably priced from memory. and could make An AU V8 cable complete if it's broken, (just get a late pedal and find a way to mount it (think i tek screwed one to the floor once if they mount different)

53 minutes ago, fotz said:

also any ideas for an accelerator cable, impossible to find an e series or au v8 cable anywhere…

for that pedal *early XF(earlier than 1988) it's the same pedal as XE, which if you can find an XE V8 one they are quite long. (pretty rare to my understanding) but may not suit a throttle body.

changing to a 1988XF to 1993 XF or  to XG pedal, you can then use the XG cable (also long) and it should be throttle body style ended (no idea what ends an AU V8 uses)

i can't remember if the pedals mount the same either.

@Thom might have an idea

48 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Ill pull it off and clean up the solenoid contacts. the post in the solenoid is loose and shoots sparks out of it every time i start it so ill tighten that up. Id like to keep the original size starter because of that classic sound but if cant get this one working good will an au starter fit?

yeah AU one fits, 

the good thing about them is they are lighter, and smaller(further from the heat of the exhaust) 

they don't seem to last 20yrs like the old ones though

50 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

I did another compression reading and it was back at 150. Must be a shitty gauge or something. I swapped plugs and leads and nothing changed but I might throw a new intake gasket just to see if that works, if not I'll pull the valve cover and start tearing into the valvetrain.

By the way got any tips for rebuilding the starter or is it a run it till it dies kinda thing?

i prefer the fat early starter (when rebuilt) but the new later starters are cheap  (under $100 online)  and you can try a used one for under $50 including postage (here's the cheapest i just found on ebay in 3 seconds) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/251480920729?itmmeta=01HXC1MGTXJ8SG7FZJJZ5GDQRS&hash=item3a8d6e5299:g:GiIAAOxyCGNTKmMZ&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4M0kjadIXOgEN4h6ffsWcKpoJyVTJCT%2Fn5ZmXcXX5WArhAdJUdLl95lMbyKv4MMb5eCF2DEZ2Z4Ib3F7rV3HFl28eQK0HidM0bznO91BnH6fLt8P%2FqQF8lyzLPDUOYpkKdjwhA%2B%2F7WUmcMDpalldWbTCx7ITAlskoAlK5HL149EoGIweal03xhHiL6LEQ0dqeJNXsL5txlBWSBDCD2%2FkjcTsAlvdJeSZa78G7WnKxx3iIMI4jRI9YVpQKWzGW%2FMl19Fws2OVrAP6JhCmHuyHz1Zn%2FQtE8u2CIrRfxURM3Q%2B5|tkp%3ABk9SR8SN0oHrYw

if you hot wire the trigger post on the starter and it's same , i'd just get another starter. (after making sure the earths on the block/battery and other connections are all clean and tight and wiggled the starter relay. 

2 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

I feel like an idiot for not thinking of the intake gasket. That would explain it all! I tried the starting fluid trick but got no difference anything else i could try to check it? I think the compression reading was low because the engine wasn't spinning over properly (The starter almost catches fire every time i turn the key and i had to beat it to life to get the car running). I fucked with it some more and finally got the oil to stop turning black within 5 seconds of startup, seemed to help with the lifter noise. Ive been driving it a bit and getting it up to temp and there's been no difference in how it runs.

mine didn't respond to starter fluid, or anything sprayed around the manifold(was blown in an inaccessible spot above the dissy(behind p/s pump)

i'd prefer 20W50 or even 25W50 in old wornout things, 

the other thing that is worth checking is if it's bent a pushrod (they are made of cheese) but if it runs ok at times i'd 99% rule that out. 

the mechanic i went to said it was probably a wiped cam lobe (common ish back in the day also) or a wiped out lifter, but it's compression was too high for that. 

i found it after it blew a head gasket  at 5 and 6 and pulled the head off with everything still on it. 

2 hours ago, Tazvan said:

One tip I can give, is not to just pull spark plug leads off while engine is running, the spark still wants to go somewhere and what can happen is it will look for the easiest place to go which is jumping across the windings in the coil and making it fail prematurely...

i did it on an MSD dissy on a valiant 265 hemi and thought i was going to die.. 

it's dangerous without plastic tongs. 

16 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

Compression was at 90 however no 2 was the same

check some others, 90 is very low, it's possibly blown headgasket between the 2.

My lowest good running crossflow was 120psi on all, and my best standard one was 180psi.  

i had a crossflow run crap at idle (5cyls) but had good compression, and this was due to a blown intake gasket on one port. (possibly from a backfire)

if the car's been sitting ages, the valves can get a layer of rust on them or stick open a bit in the guides etc.. i'd be tempted to just run it longer if it's not losing coolant or mixing oil/coolant
running rough isn't a rwc issue most of the time (unless it stalls or smokes) 

5 hours ago, Tazvan said:

So if I was to seal off the 2 stage switch, I assume I could still use that, but having no vacuum to operate it means that it won't switch between the initial .70 jet size down to the .55 size, therefore remaining at .70 constantly, would that be correct?

yeah infact i've seen those idle jet ones possibly on XEs without the 2 stage switch and vacuum to them(assume it's ported vacuum, but i can't remember if that vacuum shuts or opens it.)

definitely worth trying. there's vacuum ports where some are vacuum at idle and some only get vacuum off idle,
at worst case you could get it from a manifold tree to test it. and the worst would likely be that it runs on a bit when you turn the key off.
That's about all i can think of anyway. it's likely there for pollution reasons (no unburned fuel after key is off) so that's not going to matter these days for one car on the road. 

1 hour ago, Tazvan said:

The 2 stage idle switch has definitely failed as it won't hold any vacuum what so ever...

 

So after some reading it looks like I will need to get an idle jet holder to hold the jet that is in the failed switch, but I think I will step down to the suggested .60 instead...

 

I haven't found anyone in Australia yet that can supply one... overseas I can...

Is anyone is able to help me out with one of these, or suggest where I can get one here in Aus?

 

 

This is the part needed below...

only thing i can see from google is this on ebay(overseas)

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/292281633538

you could try weber performance (Melbourne) and see if they have it in Oz?
https://www.weberperformance.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=6_268&products_id=631

yep, as Thom said. 

The XF T5 cross member may even have the center hole already in it, i have seen them many times drilled for both. 

like this one (image from @fotz thread recently, on the left not circled)

52 minutes ago, SPACK said:

I have the chance/option to buy an E-SERIES gearbox, A T5, I want to put in my XF, do I just change BELL HOUSINGS and fit, nothing else to do..it all lines up?

what's in it now?

single rail 4 speed?  if so, is it unleaded or leaded (clutch cable on driver side is leaded)

if it's unleaded single rail, the clutch cable is same as the XF T5 otherwise you'll need one. 

cross member or modify the original if you can't find one (actually aftermarket are making them)  pic below of mine i modified..

gear stick and knob are different to the single rail also (sounds obvious, but i had to find one back in the day due to buying a gearbox only)

T5 crossflow bell housing is available aftermarket also in Alloy, but only as a leaded clutch from memory or hydraulic which makes it tight for exhaust on the cable side  with a CAT (I used a CRS one) or you can drill the single rail to suit (there's a thread here, but on your car you'd appreciate the correct parts used, so an XF T5 bell housing for a crossflow obviously)

1 hour ago, Tazvan said:

 

Hi Dean,

I reckon you're right about the leaking diaphragm because when removing the carb top cover next day after coming home, the fuel level seemed way too low in the bowl...not sure why the XE comment as it is an XF carb.

The pic doesn't clearly show, but it has the (electric solenoid) as well. 

 

I'm trying to eliminate the 2 stage idle switch as another issue B4 reassembly, hence why I would like to understand the importance of the vacuum operated switch and deal with that as well. I try to subscribe to what the old man said to me as a kid, do it right the first time and you won't have to do it again... sometimes easier said than done

 

ah i didn't see that electric solenoid, that's where the idle jet is then. 

the other is possibly for idling up the engine if it's about to stall (air con switched on at idle etc)

i haven't looked at one for many years,

but the first thing i'd do regardless is just take the diaphragm covers off and check them, split, stiff etc = issues.

(there's another on the inside of the top cover under the thing with the spring on it which i believe is a low vacuum enrichment part, as in going up a hill in a higher gear with low revs)

do it once do it right is great, @SPArKy_Dave has listed links to geniune diaphram kits which would no doubt last longer than the repro stuff available today.(at repco etc) 

4 hours ago, Tazvan said:

Can anyone explain the purpose and operation of the circled device?

My factory Ford XF repair manual calls it a two stage idle switch...

If it is faulty, could this cause my previously mentioned issue, and are they available to buy?

If not what can be done?

that's the fuel cut solenoid (electric on XFs later)

well, i'm not sure how it works on XEs, but on XF it shuts the idle circuit when ignition is cut so it doesn't run on. 

usually when there's an issue with them (broken wire on XF) they'll start on more throttle but will never idle. (due to idle circuit blocked by the plunger)
 

if you want to LOOK first, undo all the diaphram covers(can see the 3 main ones in the pic above, they have a tendency to dry out and crack, and one of mine was pouring fuel in rich as anything)

1 hour ago, Melba toast xf said:

Okay this is a little outlandish but I've grown up on 70s and 80s american movies and alot of these involves muscle cars with jacked up rear ends and huge fuck off exhausts and I quite enjoy that style (don't shoot me haha) and i was thinking of chucking side exit exhuasts on melba toast (my xf ute) and was thinking what's the legality of it all because i know they're legal to an extent in nsw but no website will tell me the specifications to have this all legal. And is it really worth it to look like a million bucks. Now I'll be doing this in conjuncture with engine mods so I'm not a complete p plater wanker. Also should I revamp the whole system like should I put glass packs in. I've already got headers sitting in me shed which is a must have if i do say so myself so if I were to do this are glass packs the go and what ever stuff can I do to the system. Also can I get a rear lift for my old leaf springs and how impacted will my handling be? Also the attachment below is the side pips I have in mind

Thanks again and I hope everyone is doing well 

the last i heard about side exhausts, (20yrs ago at min) it just needed to be a certain distance from the door(30cm rings a bell) and be under the noise limit and have some heat shielding (those pictured could pass if you had a muffler before them)

high utes handle pretty crap, so you need to decide how crap you can live with. 

i'd say ask your pink slip person and an exhaust mob

5 minutes ago, Melba toast xf said:

Wait so it's only partly there? Fuck me it might be a bigger job then I thought.

see the black part the T bar is bolted to,  without that you'll have too much gearbox poking through the tunnel to deal with

1 minute ago, Melba toast xf said:

Wait so it's only partly there? Fuck me it might be a bigger job then I thought.

i'll see if i can find a pic from @CHESTNUTXE thread for the hump, he's recently done the same job

1 minute ago, Melba toast xf said:

She's a column manual so I'm not too worried about the hole. I'm abit tired and all so do you mean the actual hump for the transmission or something else. Sorry once again. I was thinking just cluster swap with all the gauges and that. She also doesn't have a tacho or any fancy things like that so is it going to be difficult to wire them in mainly the tacho, she's got a speedo, engine temp, fuel gauge and that's it 

yeah hump on the floor for the gearstick to clear.  get an XB to XE one that screws on and it's simple

all the wiring is there for a cluster swap. just add the oil sender in place of the switch on the motor

31 minutes ago, Melba toast xf said:

Hey guys I'm in the middle of converting melba from a bench seat to buckets and I'm thinking about placing a centre console in her. Is there a big difference between manual and auto consoles and will I be able to just put it in without cutting stuff up.

 

Also how difficult is it to replace the dash with a fairlane digital dash?

Once again thank you guys with helping me with my last post

the auto console can fit a manual fairly easy, the manual hole is too wide i think for the T bar display panel to be fitted. 
You'll need the hump fitted to the floor, XE and prior just unscrew and were available new from GT shops etc (XA to XE would be same or close enough) or drill the spotwelds off a Tbar etc one from a donor car XF 

if you just want the cluster swapped (easy) just get the fairlane cluster and the oil sender from the fairlane engine and it just plugs in and works.

if you want to fit the whole fairlane dash with the trip computer etc. well, it can fit, i don't know it if plugs up to the existing engine loom without any mods(possibly would just plug and play)

11 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Aye. Had a look and it's a problem with the mufflers. They're rusted out anyway so I'm going to replace the exhaust with a stock size cat back system any recommendations for something?

depending how noisy you like 
I'm old, i'd go with a factory spec muffler., 

but back in the day a baffled glass pack sounded nice, the straight through ones will be similar but louder. 

you can delete the center resonator (often cracks anyway) for almost no difference (if anything a slightly nicer sound) 

On 4/22/2024 at 6:54 PM, XF EDDIE said:

I got the rest of the exhaust undone and she's sweet. How "unfortunate" that the stock exhaust is blocked. I guess I'm now forced to make a 2.5" exhaust system for it. In all seriousness thank you all for the help. Without the help I got here I would still be ripping my hair out hunting this problem. All I got to do now is fix that ignition lock and she's back on the road!

personally i didn't rate the 2.5" exhaust on stock engines. mine went better with 2" even than the 2.25 one,(be different if jetting etc was being done on the carby on a dyno i suspect)

unless you like noise, the 2.5" makes a lot more noise, (i still reckon they sound better with a sports muffler on the stock exhaust size )
 

that's on a stock engine that only makes power to 4000rpm at best though (due to cam/valve springs) 
 

40 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

@SPArKy_DaveI pulled the EGR and she fkin ran! I'll disconnect the rest of the system and let you know how it goes

 

that's a win, it may be a blocked cat, or the guts of it blocking something further down the line if it fell out (one of My utes and a sedan did this, it came loose/turned sideways and was blocking the flow in the cat pipe..
i made a bolt fit tight in a piece of garden hose and smashed it up  while still fitted to the car (both times) due to i don't like udoing rusty exhaust bolts where possible.
could be a rats nest in the muffler if it's been parked for yonks also i guess

9 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Don't have any way to get a cheap known good est box at the moment. I'll try what sparky Dave suggested and if none of that fixes it I'll temporarily fit the dizzy out of the f100. Any way to check the est system before swapping parts? I heard they have a self test function but I don't know for sure and it would be preferable to narrow it to the est.

anything to do with testing for Me was swap in another one. (swap tronics)

@SPArKy_Dave may have some info links,

2 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

The f100 has an alloy head 1 xd motor. Is that compatible?

yes, but if you fit it, unplug the ECU in the kick panel  of the XF (this could also be the current issue also, they have been known to go bad even 20yrs ago)

I had an XF ute, fitted the XD alloy head/XE dissy (leaded XF is same but with the later cap, has a specific rotor button for it, you'd need to order if keeping it)

it worked for ages but at some point the ECU in the kick panel(wasn't needed) had an issue and caused ignition breakdown. i simply unplugged it and it was fine with the XD dissy again. 

to fit it, all you need to do is put the wires onto the coil  (2 wires) and it will work  (unplug the ECU in the left kick panel)

the ECU is specific to the carby models, EST sticker shoud/will be on it.  might pay to check that before you go further,  and if you can locate another to try it could be worth a shot.  (unleaded aka 1986 XF utes/vans upto 1992 should have one as they were all carby.  otherwise only sedan/wagon/fairlane etc from 1986/1987 with a carby would have them (rare now)