Arrow18

So add in a ship load of measurements, dummy fitting and more measurements and you end up with this.

So that's what the rail looked like when it was removed from the 30x30 box section

So today I went off to the lathe and put the PROFLOW injector bosses into the lathe. If you look closely in the photo you will see the o-ring recess in the front one. They are a multi use boss. I didn't need/ want the o'ring so I had to modify it, and it gave me a nice press in fit.
 

 
I also wanted to make sure I gave the TIG welder the easiest and neatest way he could weld them in.

It's a significant weight reduction. They actually tell you the weight difference when you inquire with them. There are a couple of things on this car that I will be keeping a secret and the total weight of the car is the major one. Why? Because a bloke has to have some secrets. 
It is very gratifying to spend time on your own stuff. Since starting my little business, which has turned into a monster, I very rarely get time for self indulgence. I'd love to have this engine and the shop ute completed, mainly to prove I'm not a flog like a certain x flow guru from WA, but also to inform you of the results of my testing. But I just have to grab the time I can and update you fellas as I go.

Also got a delivery from the other end of the country. Phillip Island area to Cairns. Thanks goes to EnvyXf for making the bumpers and the Michelle for making the guards. She isn't just the co-owner and book keeper and receptionist. She gets out into the shed and makes the stuff. Lovely to talk to as well and a superbly finished product. Very happy.
 

 
The car didn't come with a rear bumper so the fibreglass rear bumper was a no brainer. While I was getting it I thought may as well get a glass front bumper. Then it flowed onto the fibreglass front guards as well. The corty came with a fibreglass bonnet so it sorta makes sense to make the whole front end glass.
 
Like is said way back, I'll be making this a very light, stripped out race car and I make no apologies for that.

There you go Crazy2287
 

 
Stainless steel fuel rail ends.

Anyway, enough of the bad brake kit, onto some good bits. The above is a pile of fittings and most of the hose that will make up THOR's fuel system.
 
I love AN fittings and this proflow stuff is great quality and way cheaper than the other brands. Can't wait to start building this killer fuel system.

Time for an update. I went and bought a UPC TC-TD corty front brake upgrade kit. It got it second hand, new never used, off a FB site. The seller was honest and said that he had heard bad things about how the kits fitted and hence he was selling it and buying a wilwood kit. I got it for less than half price delivered so I thought I'd take the risk.
 
I did a bit of research and most of the fitment problems seemed to relate to the TE-TF kits so I was prepared to give it a go. Well it turns out that what people were saying on the forums was true. The inner bearings and seals were incorrect size, but WAY more concerning was the fact that the kit was supplied with the incorrect thread pitch on the caliper mounting bolts.
 

 
The silver bolts came with the kit and the black ones are the correct ones for the caliper
 

 
Bit hard to see in the photo but you can see that the thread pitch of the black bolts is correct
 
Sort of explains why people have trouble with the kits and stories off calipers falling off due to bolts pulling threads out are true. Thing is there is powder form loctite in the caliper so the unskilled would just think it's the loctite causing the binding and wind the supplied bolts in.
 
By all accounts raising any concerns with the company is a waste of oxygen so I'm not going to bother. I'll see how they go. Just as many people say they work as those that say they don't so I guess it's a case of suck and see. Seems the TC-TD boys are happy, but TE-TF not so.
 
Anyway after getting the right inner bearings and seals and the correct caliper bolts and some spring washers and shortening the bolts by 4 threads, I got the drivers side done. Well 90% done. Turns out the hubs haven't been machined enough to take a stock dust cap, so I'll pull it all off and chuck it in the lathe and shave a whisker off so the dust cap fits.
 
Man if I had paid full sticker price for the kit, I would be filthy.
 

Yeah I've got the bottom one as well, running dx3. Got the car driving on Monday and took it for a few laps.
Drives fine, steering is a lot heavier but it has good authority. I need to spend some more time behind wheel to see if the "feel" is better from a performance aspect.
 
I hooked it to the ign power (not the fuel pump power) through a 3 position single pole (SPDT) rocker switch so i can have it on, off and auto (on with ign) so i can spin it up if i want to move the car with the engine off, i can turn it off with the eng running so im not drawing power if im tuning or doing some other maintenance. Or it spins up as soon as the ign is on, because it takes a while to build pressure this makes the startup lag less noticeable compared to if it was connected to fuel pump power.

Yeah. Crazy it will be on the limit when the water pump and thermo engages. But that's the beauty of alcohol. This thing will struggle to get water temp in it. They may engage after the burnout, hard to say. I don't imagine them coming on when the thing has 110+ mph passing over the alloy radiator. On the return road and the crawl back to the pits, yep for sure. The one gauge can log volts so I'll be able to monitor what's going on.
 
Basically I wanted just enough to look after the pumps, injectors, CDI, coils etc. and no more. Despite it being a drag car I plan on running a very big battery to compensate. I have no problem carrying the extra weight cause it will be where it needs to be for chassis balance - think counter balance 100kg of vanilla gorilla. One thing I have learned from speedway and most recently in helping clarkey out with his blown XY, is the importance of weight jacking and chassis balance. I've shaved 4 tenths off clarkey's ET and gained 6mph all through set up. No motor just set up.
 
That's the reason for the small alternator, reduce front right weight. It's just a theory based on semi sound math. If it doesn't work I'll make a tailshaft driven 90amp alternator. Lol. They actually use to do a race version of this small alt which throws out 90amp but not available anymore and those with stock have a decent price tag on them. MSD also do a mini chev alt. All are options.

Managed to finalise the crank trigger mount. Recessed the adjustable timing pointer. Had to modify the end of the vac pump mandrel because space at the front of the car is a premium. Came up alright
 

 

Saved enough in the fun fund account to buy the injectors, fuel pumps and TPS to suit the jenvey's
 

 
Started mocking up the fuel rail. I got some weld in injector bungs from PROFLOW that suit the injectors very well. Found a local expert TIG welder to weld them into the rail. Just need to get my act together and drill the rail etc etc.
 
 

Apologies for the lack of updates in here. I'm flat out at work and keeping the business page running so I don't get as much time as I'd like. Rainy crappy day here today so time for an update.
 

 
As you can see if found a spot to mount the coils.

Maybe you could start a thread with all your stuff in it and what you have done Dave ? Daves racing dyno exploits and then people could check it out. Pics and vids needed though.
 
Back to original programming...how are you going to do the exhaust on the car anyway ? Will it go to the back or end near the diff? I reckon mine would benefit from dropping the exhaust based on weight saving ( twin 2.5" FFS ) but don't know the car would like a short a exhaust as such ? Maybe I could fit a single 3.5" small body muffler to the end of the collector to tone noise and not sacrifice power? Seems to work for some more serious drag guys in muffler classes. Whats your plans unless you don't want to let too much out of the bag so to speak? 

Get on to that exhaust Ando, I want to see pics. I am a fan of this build.

Sounds like an interesting package and would have been advanced in the 90's for sure. Especially as aftermarket efi was in its infancy. Would have been bloody expensive as well back then. Good on them. Sad news on being destroyed in a house fire.
 
I know I'm not the first to do it. Jason was well ahead of me and probably many others. It's the first time I've played with this level of intake and ignition control as previously my stuff was based around the restrictive 'modified sedans' rule book.
 
I must say that I am enjoying the experience and I'm learning heaps and to me, that's what it is all about. The fact that I get to share my journey with you guys is an added reward. You keep me honest and focused.
 
I will build a turbo version Dave. But not until I get this one nailed and the beauty is most of the gear and knowledge will transfer into that build.

Yeah Matt the extractors are very well made. They have 3 secondary tubes, all of 2 1/4" diameter. That makes for a very big collector which then tapers down to the 3", 3 bolt flange. It has a tapered cone insert in the collector.
 
I plan on still having a reduction at the collector but just not down to 3". It will be 3.5" for a short section and then that piece in the photo.
 
Sorry Dave, no turbo in here and yeah, it has been a bit wordy of late. Just me thinking out aloud and keeping everyone informed of my plans. So the Jonstons did a solid roller cam crossy on meth, with ecu controlled efi, triple ITB's, crank trigger and CPP in the 90's? Wow I'd like to see that car.

No problem. Yes I buy a lot of my ECU stuff from them. And they are US based. DIY auto is no fuckin around and super reliable.
The only downside is when you fuck a coil you can't just waltz down and get a replacement. It's a internet order and about 5 day or 3 weeks depending on postage speed chosen. So there is that downside to these sort of imported parts.
 
I'm not sure with this coil, But the IGN1a that i use, is rebranded by a other places. This is identical item but without any branding. and it's a bit of a weapon. Anything over 100mj of energy is serious business. But the problem with internal igniters, it's easy to cook em if you fk up. Ask me how i know.
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/ign-1a-race-coil/ Not suitable for CDI though.
 
For example: http://www.aemelectronics.com/files/pr/071211_High_Output_Coils/High_Output_Coils_PR.html Looks familiar?
 
All this guru talk is making me itch to work on ECU's again

Still got plenty to do but the motivation is very high. Gotta get this thing outta the shop. Got a little corty that needs love.

Just some of the math that goes on.... I've had a play with the fuel rail and nothing factory FORD suits, which is a bit of a bummer but cool as well. I've worked out what I'm going to do for a rail and I will be making my own out of bits and pieces of genuine ford itmes. Yeah I could make a billet rail out of alloy, but that's not my style.
 
I've got all the spacing sorted. Time to order some fittings and the also the JENVEY ram horns, as I've settled on inlet tract length. Should be really interesting in here this time next week.

Cheers men. Final measurements, then I'll order the ram horns. When I have them I'll take a photo with them fitted and the rocker cover off. It looks way tougher.

I'll just leave these here,
 

 

 
Got some more stuff coming later this week. Getting a little bit pumped.

I'll finish dummy assembly of them today and post up some picks tonight.

Happy crossflow freak in Far North Queensland tonight.
 

 

 
Well worth the wait. Awesomely engineered and finished. Bloody light as well. Missing a few pieces to make the linkage system work but the supplier is on it and sending the missing bits. I've worked out my issues with him and he has a good understanding of my expectations now.