NZXD

Went out for a real good drive to get some heat in the oil in the box, as yesterday it was a short drive.
 
Went through town, lots of stop start driving and 1-2 is mint, exactly how I want it.
 
2-3 is better than before, still a bit stiff but goes into gear with the grinding.
 
3-4 is 100% better, just slips in.
 
4-3 is way better and so on.
 
Still not like a 5 spd Japanese box but hell it never will be.
 
Thanks for all the advice and help with the single rail.
 
 
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Found exactly what you are talking about, I think I’ll shim it with a few washers as you have advised, bit of trial and error.



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I can't remember exactly where it lives, possibly passenger side front of case (too long since playing with them)

I remember trying to de-slop my Cortina one and went a bit too tight with the shimming so it's easy to do.

How you would loosen it up... I suppose get a shorter or lower tension spring, take a smidge off the spring that's in there, or loosen the keeper bolt out till you get the right tension, note the gap under the bolt head and shim out with washers to suit.

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Yep confirmed. 9/16" spanner, remove bolt and there's a springy thing inside.

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Nah up on the passenger side of the main case, just behind the top bolt to the bellhousing, there's a bolt sticking out sideways. I believe this has the spring and plunger/ball behind it. I can go outside and look at the old shitter sitting on the floor in the garage if you like. 
Whatever you do, don't undo the one further back (the one on slight upward angle). That's the reverse idler pivot. If you drop that off inside the box, you'll be pulling the box out and fishing it out through the top.
 
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Right so went out for a drive, let it all get up to running temps.

Initial differences are that the box makes a very slight whine, a lot easier to get into reverse.

Driving the up shifts are better and not so rough, downshifts are slightly better too.

Maybe over time the shifter will loosen up a bit, it’s quite stiff.

Over all for the $25 I spent to get oil it is a heap better to drive.


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Right so went out for a drive, let it all get up to running temps.

Initial differences are that the box makes a very slight whine, a lot easier to get into reverse.

Driving the up shifts are better and not so rough, downshifts are slightly better too.

Maybe over time the shifter will loosen up a bit, it’s quite stiff.

Over all for the $25 I spent to get oil it is a heap better to drive.


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I had 17s but they didn't look great. Went back to 15s with a taller tyre. Look a lot better. 

I found a drunk under my car last night he was trying to pinch the wine out of the diff

Right so went out for a drive, let it all get up to running temps.

Initial differences are that the box makes a very slight whine, a lot easier to get into reverse.

Driving the up shifts are better and not so rough, downshifts are slightly better too.

Maybe over time the shifter will loosen up a bit, it’s quite stiff.

Over all for the $25 I spent to get oil it is a heap better to drive.


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Oil has been changed.

Roll on Friday arvo for a test drive.


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I picked up a couple of litres of Penrite SAE 30 oil. Hopefully this helps and I can report back good news.


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Oil has been changed.

Roll on Friday arvo for a test drive.


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Oil has been changed.

Roll on Friday arvo for a test drive.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oil has been changed.

Roll on Friday arvo for a test drive.


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I picked up a couple of litres of Penrite SAE 30 oil. Hopefully this helps and I can report back good news.


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im gunna check my penrite to see what it is

I have some Penrite HPR 30 (20/60) oil as I use it in my Crossflow.

Thanks


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The original manual says SAE30. It's getting harder to find monograde oil so I'd go with either 15W40 or 20W50. A light, non-ep gear oil would suffice, say Syntrans 75W85. That is a GL4.

The problem with using the gear oil is twofold. Not only do the EP additives make the syncros too slippery, they actually eat the brass away as would acid. Using EP oil (API GL5) in anything with brass/bronze components is a no-no.

Stick with dino oil Penrite HPR30 (with zinc) and you'll be sweet. The zinc will protect the teeth and bearings. I wouldn't go any thinner than that or with synthetic engine oil because single rails like to have leaks and synthetic loves to find them.

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So SAE 30 weight is common 4 stroke engine oil for small engines. I actually have some for the lawn mower.


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From everything I’ve been reading I need to drop the gear oil out and try engine oil. Sounds like it will help a lot.


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i would have used 25/50 valvoline engine oil, normal non synthetic, i did 80,000kms on it before the clutch went.. and i converted to auto
 

noooo not 15/40 thats way to light

i cant remember the weight of my oil but i think its lighter than 80/90,i will chex in morning.

Yes it had the full kit put through it with new syncros and new shifter nut etc.

The oil is currently 80/90 gear oil.

What Penrite oil do you use?


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