josh1990

You mean this stuff? - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-High-Performance-Thread-Sealant-50mL/129928
https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

You mean this stuff? - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Permatex-High-Performance-Thread-Sealant-50mL/129928
https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-high-performance-thread-sealant/

Mounting the sensor:

one bank is fine on a V8, but if you must, you can put it just before the cat where the 2 sides merge.

On a 2-cat exhaust, provided your engine is running fine (IE no misses or dud plugs) one bank is fine.

Yes it must be before the cat. The only time you'd shove a sensor up the pipe is when there are no cats or you're measuring NOX.

On a properly running catted car, HC and CO should be bugger all out the pipe, because the cat burns these up and uses whatever O2 the engine can't, hence the reason why you can't measure AFR after the cat.

Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk

Woah, $800 for a slave? Alloy one from a T56 Camira will work (well, it does in BA conversion). Mal Wood also sells alloy one with bleeder for $150 (https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/alloy-t56-slave-cylinder/). Worth it just for ease of bleeding, which is a massive pita on these boxes. Homemade spacers to get the correct crush.
I was lucky enough to get my T56 for $800. 10k kms out of a BF Turbo. Only problem, it was in Darwin. My little bro did a favour for one of his mates up there and got it down here at no cost to me.
My tailshaft cost me $570 including gearbox yoke.

Woah, $800 for a slave? Alloy one from a T56 Camira will work (well, it does in BA conversion). Mal Wood also sells alloy one with bleeder for $150 (https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/alloy-t56-slave-cylinder/). Worth it just for ease of bleeding, which is a massive pita on these boxes. Homemade spacers to get the correct crush.
I was lucky enough to get my T56 for $800. 10k kms out of a BF Turbo. Only problem, it was in Darwin. My little bro did a favour for one of his mates up there and got it down here at no cost to me.
My tailshaft cost me $570 including gearbox yoke.

Woah, $800 for a slave? Alloy one from a T56 Camira will work (well, it does in BA conversion). Mal Wood also sells alloy one with bleeder for $150 (https://malwoodauto.com.au/product/alloy-t56-slave-cylinder/). Worth it just for ease of bleeding, which is a massive pita on these boxes. Homemade spacers to get the correct crush.
I was lucky enough to get my T56 for $800. 10k kms out of a BF Turbo. Only problem, it was in Darwin. My little bro did a favour for one of his mates up there and got it down here at no cost to me.
My tailshaft cost me $570 including gearbox yoke.

Heres what ya should use in a T5.....if you want to go Penrite.

 
Read the label.... you'll understand why you have shift problems with other fluids.... too viscous. The additive just thickens it.

 
Also if you use a Hydratrak
Diff... Outback Owners....
This is the forshizzle...


You want a diff oil that suits a hypoid type diff... not lsd... because that is clutch pack, not fluid filled coupling.
 
I love my Penrite.....
Death to the Non-Believers!
Lol.
 
Jack.
 
Sent from my GT-S7583T
 
 
 
 

The XR6 Turbo actually runs a T5z box. Little bit stronger, but then take into consideration the motor is a little (lot) stronger too. Have just murdered my 5th (or is it 6th) T5 box. This latest one is behind a virtaully stock Barra, CAI only. Lost 5th and Reverse, synchros stuffed. Mal Wood quoted ~$700 for new bearings, seals and synchros. Plus I've never put one together so went T56 instead. Barra T5 and T5z harder to find than their <AU counterparts, 26 spline input vs 10 spline. 

As stated, the gearboxes are trash. It will last for a while stock, depending on how you drive of course. But as soon as you want more power it'll be 6 speed time (T56, TR6060) or a TKO.
Then when you do pop the 5 speed, you'll struggle to find a decent 2nd hand one that hasn't been flogged. Modifying the 5 speed can be done, but it's just as expensive if not more than the 6 speed conversion. 3.5k is too much dinero to pay.
Also, consider how the vehicle may have been treated by previous owners. Turbo + Manual? I'd be driving that Bitch like I stole it erryday. It could end up costing you more.

Running DBA T2 rotors with bendix ultra premium (fancy name for GCT) pads in my ute. The standard rotors warp under sustained braking (like when towing) so I moved to the DBA. No more shudder, pull a load up great and on the off chance I get to go for a fang through the hills, perform brilliantly. Next time? Same again. Happy with how they work.
 
Wife's Corolla, has RDA slotted rotors (were cheaper at time)  and GP Max pads. These are an improvement (slight) over standard, however are shit. The rotors rust virtually overnight, they shudder a bit (not the wheels either) and the pads are dusty. Hopefully won't need to replace these before we replace the car though - its a piece of shit anyway.