MNTL.XD

Are TE engine bays smaller than TD because..... OH YEAH!!! [url=http://s1136.photobucket.com/user/mntlxd1/media/Dumb%20shit/Screenshot_2016-02-06-11-34-18.png.html][/ URL] Dunno what Dave was on about.... hehe

I'll let you finish this quote Dave.. Where there's a will.....

Bahahahaha!! Oh mate, that gave me a good laugh, cunny funt aren't we!! A big yes to boosting it, a boosted Windsor Corty, yep!! Windsors being of such small physical size there should be easily enough room for a snail each side. Hehehe. Give that little Windsor a stroker crank and some decent aftermarket alloy heads and blah blah blah..... shit, i've lost where i was going too now!!

I'd just replace it all, having new uni's is never going to be a bad thing. They're quite cheap and easy to do and obviously need to be done. With the diff being a 2.77:1 another should be able to be found very easily, they're definitely not a sought after ratio so there's heaps laying around.

It should be illegal NOT to put a V8 into a Cortina. If you get done for it you'll have a story to tell your grandkids. I'd do it, you only live once, live hard, die sideways. (in which case someone else will have to tell the grandkids.) lol

If you're gonna keep it an in-line 6, why put a crossy in it when the barra would be faster? Hehe.

Meh, get it roady'd and reg'd then do it. See how long to takes to get caught. A mate of mine had a Corty with meth'd clevo, tubs, rollbars, the lot and didn't get checked out for the full 2.5years the car was on the road, and that was in Hamilton Vic which the call cop city, all the rookies are there, their provement grounds. It was registered as a 6 the whole time. lol.

Yes, it will. As long as you use a plasti-prime whenever you do plastics you will be fine, we've all seen paint 'flake' off plastic from plastic primers not being used. I just use a pressure pack for the plastic primer. You can speak to your paint shop about getting some flexaid put in your top coats but it's not essential. For your lip you will be fine with the pressure pack plast-prime, give it 10 minutes to flash off and paint straight over that. You may find there is a different plastic primer for 2k if that's what you're using. Cheers.

So do we get to see a pic of this XC??

With core shift, i was told to look at the lifter holes, if they are over to one side not to buy it as you could pretty much guarantee the bores will be. I had one of these XE blocks which had 4 bolt holes and threads, but the caps were 2 bolt, there were many configurations i believe. The one i had (i sold last year) was at 40 thou and he still paid $100 for it, might've been worth getting sleeved, dunno.

Bugger how hard it is, do it bro!

Yeah, i don't have the right torque wrench either, i'm about to start building the 9" diff centre so need to buy one myself. .... or there's this (copy and paste.) lol. Dave 12/07/07, 12:37 PM I turned 10 inch radius circle out of 3/4" particle board with 4 holes in the middle to bolt up to the yoke. A piece of fishline wrapped around it hooked to a good fishing scale makes a very accurate inch/lb guage to set up pinion preload. Total cost was nothing.

One of these is pretty easy to make mate. I made mine long enough to reach the leaf springs in the XD so it can sit on them to hold it still while i get the nut undone. I ended up with a 9" which is almost identical, with a small fk around with the bolt holes i'm now able to use it on both. No doubt it will come in handy many more times yet.

^^ I like this bit.... if i was to get into racing, i wouldn't bother building a heavy car, little Corty's are just cool!! When they built the 250 Corty and a 253 Torana back in the day, i have always wished they came out with a 302 from factory directly aimed at killing the 308 Toranas at Bathurst, ohh how i wish!! The little beasties would be seen in a completely different light and would probably be appreciated alot more than they are. Dave would probably be a millionaire too. lol.

Don't tell the opposition any of that after you kick their ass in a crossy though, a bad sportsman will use anything as an excuse!!

Beasty!! I'd have it!

Here, this is from an XE repair manual, should be the same. Hope it helps. Cheers, Paul.

Be careful if you use pliers or multi grips, i tried that a couple of years ago, i think i might've been accidentally squeezing the glass because it ended up shattering. Best way to learn bud, great to see you giving it a shot. Go grab yourself a repair manual if you don't have one mate, they really are worth their weight in gold for someone like yourself to help you understand how each part of your car works and the correct way to repair each one.

Now that would be funny! New Specsavers ad coming up...

Yeah, sounds like the same noise, i couldn't really think of a discription of it, i don't know what causes the noise but covering it in spray lube didn't help so it can lick dick, i'm not gonna play the 'lets fk with xfalcon windows' game, they suck. Damn shame you busted the rubber, i don't think superglue will last too long though unfortunately. All mine are off XFs (being quite a few years newer than my XD) I usually find the XF rubbers are still soft(ish) so hopefully you can find a replacement. Pretty sure i've got a fat, but very short screw in my doors which replaced the tiny bolt and nut set-up, try that maybe? Be sure to lube all the rubbers to keep them soft too.

Good stuff bud, done well. Bloody rubbers eh?! Shits of things. A bit of lube helps anytime you have to fk with rubbers, in bed and in the shed. lol. You've reminded me of another job i haven't yet done on mine, i've gotta remove the winder/gear mechanism, really bloody noisy for some reason, i've sprayed with wd40 but that didn't help at all, very strange noise like it's tight, but it's not..... bloody thing! I think i'll just swap it all out of another door.

What was the problem?

The winding mechanism should wind up and down freely unless it's caught on something somewhere, just need to grab a torch and look at every single moving part you can find while rocking the handle back and forth, look at the winder, the cog, the window attachment rail and slides and anything else in there, it must be caught on something, it should stand out like dog nuts when you spot it, they're a very basic setup, nothing can hide.

I'd just buy a pair of Pedders or Kings. Each coil is twice as thick as standard springs, maybe some air shocks or ride leveller kit to suit.

No worries BGDAV, they fit in behind the guard without rubbing, i'm actually surprized it's not a very common procedure to put them there. I'm not sure on the legalities of changing canisters to those of a different model/design, i guess if they're securely fitted outside the cabin and hooked up there shouldn't be a problem.