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Found 4 results

  1. Hi all, first time post after starting some work on the 1984 ZK I've owned for 9 years. It's a 4.1 EFI on straight gas. I've had the dash out to replace the heater core, and now have it back in except centre console. I thought I'd test it before going any further, and when I reconnected the battery the alternator, park brake, fuel empty and oil pressure lights/gauges powered up. This is with the ignition 'off'. When I switch the ignition to accessories, the radio etc turn on. I can then start the car and it runs okay, but I can't switch the car off because the ignition is constantly powered 'on'. I had to use the kill switch to cut the gas. I've tested the ignition switch itself and it's fine, and I've unplugged the 6-pin connector to the ignition switch below the steering wheel - the circuit stays live and all the relays (incl gas solenoid) and the bosch relay next to the battery (connected to fusible links) click as soon as the battery is reconnected. The coil is powered too. As far as it seems, wire 16 in the schematics is getting power from somewhere other than the ignition switch. I just can't work out how this is possible from the schematics. Any ideas much appreciated! Cheers
  2. So last time i was picking through parts i thought i'd try to find a new dizzy to pair up to an MSD, eventually to be setup for a EFi conversion. Anyway i think I've done something stupid (no surprise in automotive for me) and grabbed a XH 4.0 litre distributor, thinking to myself surely the inline6's are all the same, just because there were no XE/XF's available. Can anyone please tell me if this part no use to me, destined for the bin or are they the same spindle/cog length as the 4.1 xflow? photos linked, thanks in advance
  3. Harrison Kotrolos

    Falcon XC MSD Ignition Help

    Hey all, So I have wired my entire car and everything is work, within the next few days I'll be making my spark leads and doing the timing and hoping all goes well and the car starts. But first I need verification of my build, I have a MSD 6AL-2 PROGRAMMABLE; I need to stress its the programmable box, as people get confused and tell me I need the dizzy module and what not. So I have the box wired up, and a MSD Blaster SS Coil Pack, I then have an XF electronic dizzy as shown in the pictures, I'm running it with no module as the Programmable box has a separate wire and setting for Electronic dizzies. I'll tell you how I have done it, so I have wired the wires from the box into the dizzy as the manual said, so there is a 12V wire going to the PWR plug of the dizzy, then there is a GRD wire coming from the dizzy, and then there is the WHITE/BLUE wire going the PIP signal wire of the dizzy, I then have the 12V ignition to the MSD and all the earthing done. So I turn the key to START, and the MSD boots up and I can read it off the computer so its all working, the settings up have been done and once I have the spark leads done up, I should be good to go. I just want you guys to confirm this wiring is correct, and it will work, I don't want to be chasing my tail here. Also, if you guys can confirm the order of the PINS internally on the dizzy are as follows, GRND, PWR, PIP (so that's looking up at the dizzy left to right) Will post pictures once photobucket is back up and running Thanks everyone.
  4. thought i would write up the issue's I've had in the last few weeks with a mates cleveland and how we went about solving it, it may be useful to someone else. i put the engine together for him about 12months ago (maybe a little less), fairly simple combo but with a fair bit of compression. in the last couple of months with the hot days he had noticed it had been knocking/pinging from time to time under load and had started to run on upon shut down. the basic engine combo was 351 cleveland bored 20 thou 650street hp holley with a spacer (i think its 1") RPM Airgap Intake 2v CC heads with a bit of port & chamber work done (not sure what they flowed) and 4v exhaust valves Lunati 62503 cam 11.2:1 compression 6" rods balanced bottom end pacemaker 4>1 headers, twin 2.5" exhaust with Xpipe mallory ignition system toploader 9" 3.25:1 the car made 245rwkw on Lakeside Automotives Dyno we tried backing off the timing at first, it worked, but then the car wasn't performing as well, so we put the timing back to normal, and chucked octane booster in, that shut it up as a temp fix (btw car runs on BP Ultimate only) but we kept searching for things to try. put better leads on with less resistance, put a new coil on, new dizzy cap, then upped the jet size to try and cool the fuel down, which again worked, but then we had a slight stammer. next up was plugs, and i shit you not he's put at least half a dozen sets in in the last month to sort it out. different brands etc we dropped the heat range, again worked, but introduced fouling, changed brands, didn't work. i did a fair bit of research and called up NGK, got through to a tech who had a fair bit of experience working with older cars with cast iron heads. he recommended i look for another plug that had an unprojected tip, this removing a hot spot from the chamber. spent the next day at looking for plugs trying to find the right one, then ordered in a set of NGK B6FS plugs in, same heat range the car had before, which were the plugs lakeside put in. chucked them into his XC, and instantly the car ran perfect again. detonating was solved, no more run on. fixxed, simple. no fouling either which i thought might be an issue. i was tearing my hair out for about 3 weeks trying to sort this fuckin thing and all it needed was the right plug. on the flip side, it was nice to drive an XC again, even if it was someone elses.
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