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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Just because here's a couple of photos of the cuzzo on stock wheels and hubcaps, I took it to one event like this, at one point in time I had to wait a month to get a pair of 245 60 15s, and one photo in its normal attire
  2. 5 points
    Thom

    Thom's old car thread and car happenings

    Didn't take many photos today, one of the rear body braces was repaired and welded back in, the inner passenger rear sill has bee made and test fitted (no photo) and the passenger front floorpan has been made and is almost ready to fit (but I didn't take any photos of it after the beads were formed or the panel was shaped) so I'll take some more photos tomorrow
  3. 4 points
    EgoXF

    EGO: my XD/F ute

    I think the best part of my job is just being able to use 80 grands worth of equipment just to make myself a couple of little brackets for my crossmember Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  4. 3 points
    Wank factor? Nothing wrong with that, I'll do the same thing most likely haha. And yeah go alloy for a Clevo, those old cast iron units are ridiculously heavy. I had a great combo with mine - Elgin E-907-P camshaft (220@50 / 500 lift), 302C heads, Weiand X-Celerator intake w/Holley 600, MSD Street Fire HEI dizzy. Moved the old Effy along well! Yep, vac-secondary. I have used them a lot in the past and found really the only limiting factor is the secondary metering plate, but for most combos it's not too much of an issue. The secondaries open fine, but need to be resprung to suit the engine. Video will come soon but no cam at the moment, I'm focusing on getting her through rego before I play around too much with that. After all that, I've got an Innovate LM-2 wideband to put in as well. Its on a car I've got in storage so will need to go rob it at some point. Great unit, highly recommended! - boingk
  5. 2 points
    gerg

    the eye candy thread *NSFW*

    That poor last girl can't even afford a bra... Tell you what, I'll shout her one, and offer to put it on myself, taking as long as possible of course. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  6. 2 points
    I've gone with a Crow 14872 solid - 231@50 and 554 lift. Lobe sep is 108 but as I'm looking to go drag racing with nitrous that should suit just fine. Looks like most stuff I'm into is a dying art. I'm a stick welding, carb tuning, tyre fitting machine! I've got a quick-change coming. The stock units are my biggest hate with these things, they are an absolute pain in the rear. I'd love a new Brawler 600 but can't justify the budget. The carb I've got is because it was the right price. $100 from a mate, can't argue with that. He wanted it gone, went with a new one to save hassle. All the better for me!
  7. 2 points
    Meant to say at the end there, either wet on wet or left to cure and blocked back as the first stage before high fill etc. I highly recomend Protec / Epotec 408 epoxy primer. Nothing gets through it (water, air) and nothing bleeds up through it either so it's great to seal old paint jobs off before top coating with new stuff. Sticks to EVERYTHING. ..and it's cheap too.
  8. 2 points
    gerg

    Slydog's XF ute.

    Shame, cause the Hemi 6 is one of the best-sounding inlines ever created. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  9. 2 points
    Sounds like you're onto it already. Never played with ICE but I assume that they're not that different. Yeah 15 initial 30 total sounds like a good rough tune, you'll probably need a good 10 hours on the road with your laptop just messing about getting the last 10% of it right. You may even find that a double-hump curve works (that's what mine looks like) as you may need to dip it down a bit at maximum torque then back up again to max rpm. The soft-limit effect works well as I did the exact same thing. The engine just hits a wall and pops and farts a bit but doesn't kick or buck or go mang-mang-mang like a limiter-basher commo p-plater special. As for the boost curve, it's a simpler one to set up. I have mine at max from idle/cruise up to about 8 PSI, then ramping down sharply from there to about 11 PSI with 10 degrees taken out, then level to 14.7 (WOT) I also have an over-run retard to try and get some exhaust rumble on decel but it's purely for wank factor. Micheal can vouch for this [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  10. 2 points
    macman

    Project: Re-assembly!

    Some more practice welds tonight. Don’t think I’ll quit my day job any time soon, however I’m pretty happy just to get stuck into the real thing now. Top side: Back side: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. 1 point
    Best to keep up those skills, always handy for the Zombie Apocalypse Those carbies are the best... My old 600 vac was an $80 eBay flog, and when a new one is over $500, they certainly aren't 5 times the carby. I learnt my chops on this old dunga..... installed annular boosters on the primaries, manual choke, played with jets, springs, bleeds, squirters, now I definitely know enough to get myself into trouble [emoji23] Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    Yep will go over all solid substrates. As long as its not peeling, flaking, dirty.. the usual. Edit: probably not freshly laid acrylic though as that would gas off under it and make it peel like 2k clear probably. Wait till its hardened up then go for it... that's what she said anyway [emoji6]
  13. 1 point
    They are a bit expensive but edelbrock do a really nice alloy waterpump for clevos, they have a really nice impeller too (far better than the gmb ones)
  14. 1 point
    Sure it did... That sounds like a nice cam for a 351. The X-Celerator was a popular one on the Clevo. Back in the 90s, it was the best around I believe, only bettered by the Air Gap in recent years. Anything that moves a big hunk of metal like an Effie along well is delivering the goods. I looked at Elgin but nothing really suited what I was after. As mine's a 302, I was after around a 210 at 50 and a 110 lobe sep, to give some mid-range punch. Also below 0.5" lift due to stock rockers. Ended up with a Crow 21602 which goes 208/208@50, 110 LSA, 484 lift. Had this one before so I know its character, except this time I installed it +4. Anyway, crossys need a very different approach with cams. Long-stroke motors like duration, so you may well need to go with something around 225@50 and 112 LSA. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    slydog

    Slydog's XF ute.

    BMW 6 for me
  16. 1 point
    Oh sounds like you're onto the carby thing too. Good to hear. Carby tuning skills are a dying art these days. Secondary metering plates are fine, they can be tweaked as well just like jetting a meter block, all you need is a set of jet drills. They rarely need touching though. Although I must say these old-style Holleys are a nightmare to tune when compared to the new Quickfuels and Proforms, etc with replaceable everything. Air bleeds and emulsion jets make a huge difference compared to the old fixed ones. At least you have adjustable floats. I'd advise to get a quick-change spring cover. Getting the floppy diaphragm to sit in place while trying to put the screws in and hold the cover in place all at once just plain sucks. Then putting the c-clip back on the diaphragm rod without losing it is a mission. I don't miss that shit. I went to a Street Demon. Looks like you have everything else ready for the cam, so should go like a shot dog. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  17. 1 point
    I've done literally hundreds of repairs on bare steel, practically any of the smash jobs I did were fresh clean bare steel and feathered paint... skim over everything and sand until proper shape, ripple free. Handed to painters to hifill etc. With good modern filler this is not a problem and would out live most modern paintwork. Never had one come back in four years for rework. (Did repair the same cars for multiple accidents though) The best practice is bare steel, thoroughly cleaned and decontaminated, epoxy primed, repairs to be keyed for adhesion and filled, once spot on the filler is sealed with another coat of epoxy, then either wet on wet hifill/polyester/high build and on towards paint.
  18. 1 point
    Copy that. I'll get into it when I get around to connecting it up. Just got a laptop to tune the thing when its in the vehicle so that will be very helpful. It'll still have a curve something like 15deg initial to 30deg max advance as this has worked for me on many engines in the past. Yep, planning on it. Can't run properly without vac advance, definitely need it on light load moderate rpm situations like your freeway example. Bingo! I don't understand why so many performance workshops send engines onto the street with essentially locked timing - you want a curve. I reprogrammed by Dad's stroked Clevo with ICE ignition - it was running about 28 deg at idle and 30 at max advance. WTF? Dropped it to 15 idle and 30 max, and it now doesn't overheat, starts better and has more power down low as well. Timing is everything. Excellent info, thanks mate. The more resolution the better. For the fittings, I believe one of the connectors has a small tang stopping interface with the other. Remove this tang with a chisel, knife or dremel and you're good to go. Cheers - boingk
  19. 1 point
    That dyno guy obviously doesn't know much about these. I wish operators would be honest about what they do and don't know, not just imply that all knowledge about tuning starts and stops with them. GM MAP sensors come in 1, 2 and 3 bar calibrations. The rating is in absolute, not relative to atmosphere. 1-bar is 0 to atmospheric (14.7 PSI), 2-bar is 0 to 29.4, and 3-bar is 0 to 44.1. Now, getting your head around that, each of these sensors has a linear 0-5V output, meaning that each time you go up in bar rating, the resolution goes down. So if you're just after an atmo rating, any Commodore or Euro model should have one. I took a Barina one. If you're after a boost-sensing one, I think a supercharged V6 would be sporting one of them. As for XFs having them, well I only owned an EST equipped one for a few weeks until I smashed it so never even looked. The EFI ones used a Motorcraft one, which had a frequency output, not voltage. I don't know how you got the MSD to plug into a GM one, maybe they woke up to themselves and made it universal. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  20. 1 point
    Going back a bit I know but..... That is a good start, but running a cam that big will want an almost flat curve. Sure have it cranking at about 10, but to give the most off-the-line response, you'll want it to ramp up pretty sharply from 0 to idle rpm. I didn't read whether or not you're running a boost retard curve (req's MAP sensor) but I highly recommend you do this. I have found that this is the key to getting the most out of the 6AL-P box. The MAP sensor needs to be nothing more than a GM unit from the wreckers. Mine cost me the grand total of 8 bucks. Make sure you take the plug and some of the loom with you too. Splice it in to the MSD loom (the MSD plug looks the same but has different tangs which don't fit the GM MAP) and then solder them up. The reason why I say that the boost retard curve is so important (effectively vac advance on an atmo engine) is that you're leaving a lot of performance, efficiency and driveability on the table without it. At cruise, mine takes over 40 degrees advance and it likes it. That's on E10 as well. Under load, that would normally ping its tits off but having the boost retard pull about 12 degrees of timing out when I mash it makes it possible. It also allows a very mellow, advanced idle without it being a slappy, cranky, overheating bitch of a thing. Having a smooth idle with minimal throttle opening makes it more responsive to mixture adjustments. It increases idle vac which makes the mixture atomise better. is needed for brakes, interior ventilation controls, PCV, etc. So the flow-on effect of hooking up a MAP is much more than just making it drive nicely. The MSD doesn't make more horsepower, it allows a more radical engine to be tamer when driving on the street. One more thing, make sure your rotor is indexed to your cap terminals. This requires that you sacrifice a dizzy cap by drilling a large hole next to a terminal and observe the distance that the spark has to jump. Use a timing light to highlight the rotor position. If you see it jumping more than a few mm, you either need to alter the curve or extend the rotor tip to close the gap. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
  21. 1 point
    deankdx

    Thom's old car thread and car happenings

    something i've done many times. i should go look at My gemini "repair" 3 yrs on.. (rear stone tray, not really structural) was the least of it's issues.
  22. 1 point
    deankdx

    Thom's old car thread and car happenings

    look how good that bog FIXED THE RUST! it never came back.. love the repairs. one of those i'll patch it up till next year repairs finally found the "next year"
  23. 1 point
    eattsie9

    XFU-250

    Paint of taillight stuff is done happy with the results. More exterior trim painting to come later down the track when the motivation strikes me
  24. 1 point
    eattsie9

    XFU-250

    Took the old girl to cars n coffee today. Got the honour of parking next to a Roush supercharged 747 Mustang
  25. 1 point
    Thom

    Thom's old car thread and car happenings

    Looks like the decision has been made Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
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