Crossflow street build

[Te corty 3]

Hey fellas,

im looking at rebuilding my spare crossflow motor for a cortina
Looking at the following 

Ice ignition 

triple webbers

Crow solid cam 14626

Yella terra roller rockers yt 5011

spool piston and rods

El crank
alloy head has had some porting done. 

 

running a stage 2 C4 gearbox

stock 25 spline diff. 

 

 

 

 

[gerg 10,871]

Gcday mate, that all sounds pretty stout, cam is quite wild at 238/244 (0.050"), 109 lobe but lift is sensible at 0.560/0.570. You will need some serious valvesprings (say 140 on the seat) and retainers to go with that, I would look into what beehive springs you could use (LS type perhaps), single groove valves and collets would be a good idea too. I would get the crank, rods, pistons, balancer and flywheel all balanced as that combo will be a high rpm one that will show up any wonky bits on a long-stroker like that.

 

Run those cam specs through a dynamic comp calculator and aim to reach low-to-mid 8s, my guess is that you'll likely need to be at around 11:1 static. If/how much you need to shave it will depend on what head you're running and what size chamber. I would expect the HP to be around the mid-200s, which is double what the factory motor had.

 

One last thing... 25 spline axles aren't very strong. My mild 302/T5 XE wagon has started twisting the axles, and they're 25s. I have a 28 centre and axles ready to go in when time permits.

 

I remember my TF Corty originally having the tiny Sigma BW type diff (6.5" crown I believe) and while I didn't blow it, it was badly worn and I replaced it with an earlier TE one that had the Falcon 7.8" gears. That would have been a 25 spline but it wasn't a built engine though, fairly mild. I would recommend a 28 centre with cut-down Pintara axles re-drilled for Corty stud pattern. 3.45 gears are easy to find, I even have a spare set myself.

 

You didn't specify what model your Corty is, but I gave a heads-up anyway.

 

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[Te corty 3]

55 minutes ago, gerg said:

That all sounds pretty stout, cam is quite wild at 238/244 (0.050"), 109 lobe but lift is sensible at 0.560/0.570. You will need some serious valvesprings and retainers to go with that, I would look into what beehive springs you could use (LS type perhaps), single groove valves and collets would be a good idea too. I would get the crank, rods, pistons, balancer and flywheel all balanced as that combo will be a high rpm one that will show up any wonky bits.

Run those cam specs through a dynamic comp calculator and aim to reach low-to-mid 8s, my guess is that you'll likely need to be at around 11:1 static. If/how much you need to shave it will depend on what head you're running and what size chamber. I would expect the HP to be around the mid-200s, which is double what the factory motor had.

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hey mate
I was going to use the valves and components from crow cams as what they recommend. Also double row timing chain
 

yes I was going to get the bottom end balanced. 
I was thinking a ATI balancer but not to sure on what’s best. 
 

Also a bigger stall convertor also not sure how big of a stall. 

I realise the 25 spline axles won’t last too long. I believe the diff will be the weakest link for me. 
 

it’s a te corty. 
 

So I will be getting the triple webbers and ice ignition set up in the car first. 
than slowly put together the engine components. 
as they say Rome wasn’t built in a day haha

[gerg 10,871]

Ok at least the diff centre can be swapped for 28s if need be.

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[slydog 7,873]

Can I suggest it needs tighter lobe seperation due to the poor induction on a xflow. The head flows like poo and there is more hp in the cyl head than you think when ported by a good shop not for a dirt slinger. By using 104-106 lobe will aid torque then the webbers and ported head extend rpm range and hp made if used with 11.5 comp plus. Generally I use no less than 8 degrees seperation between exhaust to inlet duration also. 

 

I use Johnny Marshall of Marshall custom cams and Phill Duggan of Surecam.