Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 8, 2015 Hope someone can help. The XB takes a while to start when cold and all else has failed so I thought I'd change the starter. Ordered the correct one but it only has 2 bolts. Mine has 3 and so does the XB manual. Rang supplier who said he had never seen a 3 bolt falcon starter. Huh? Also, is missing connecter to plug in cable to coil. He says it will work fine. I don't want to take it off and this bloody thing doesn't fit or work. Anyone experienced this? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VDO 124 Posted June 8, 2015 The 2 bolt starter should fit your 3 bolt housing. The wire to the coil is there to give the coil a boost of current while cranking to help starting. If you have a decent, newer coil, you won't need the wire to it anymore. Don't connect the coil wire to the starter wire,or it will back feed and keep running your starter... leave it off. 2 gerg and Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 8, 2015 I'll add that if it's a factory coil suited to points it will be a 9v ballast type with a resistor or the supply wire itself is a resistor wire. If you have a later electronic coil you'll need to run a 12v supply to it, otherwise it will put out a shitty spark 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 8, 2015 Thanks guys, that's very helpful. Its the old type coil (but new) so I guess it should be all good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 8, 2015 I'd be checking the timing advance mechanism in the distributor. If the advance weights are seized, or the vacuum advance diaphragm is perished, it can make it quite hard to start. Same with a worn out Condensor in the distributor. It's an easy job to remove the dissy, then disassemble and lubricate all the moving parts. The vacuum advance unit can be rebuilt with a new diaphragm, or I know a place who still has some new ones on the shelf. The starter won't make it hard to start - it either spins the motor over, or it doesn't. 1 gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 8, 2015 Thanks Dave. Makes sense. I just read somewhere it might help. When you say 'new' do you mean new dizzy? That I what I would like if you have a contact. It permanently fixes the problem, and I still have lots of kitty money. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 9, 2015 I mean to get a new vacuum advance unit for the original dissy. They're held on with a small circlip and two screws. It's not much work to test your existing advance unit. Get a bit of rubber hose, attach it to the advance fitting, suck on the hose, and see if you can pull a vacuum on it, and get the advance lever/mech to move. 4 bear351c, Outback Jack, gerg and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 9, 2015 If you could describe said difficulty when cranking that would be very helpful. Does it crank slowly? (starter or battery) Does it start cranking slowly but then hit its stride after a few seconds? (one pole out in the windings) Does it fluctuate fast-slow-fast (like the timing is too advanced) Does it just crank at normal speed but for long periods before firing? (spark issues) You can still have an old oil-filled cannister type coil but it can be 12v. You have to look on it to see if it's 9v or 12. If it's 9 it should have a sticker telling you to use a ballast with it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 Cranks for ages at normal speed when cold (fires straight away when warm), then eventually fires. It is a new coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 Dizzy looks old. Might be easier to just replace. Electronic one on eBay for $119 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gerg 10,871 Posted June 9, 2015 Ok silly question but is your choke working ok? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 Yeh, that seems okay. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted June 9, 2015 Fuel leak back from the carby? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 That's what I originally thought but didn't know what to do about it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,270 Posted June 9, 2015 From memory, there's a little ball bearing check valve under the accelerator pump plunger. Anyone know for sure?? Yours is a 6 cyl Stromberg ? Another silly question, is your fuel cap vented? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 Yeh 6 Stromberg. Not sure if cap vented. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 9, 2015 Dizzy looks old. Might be easier to just replace. Electronic one on eBay for $119 Nothing wrong with the old points dizzys they ran the various models of falcons pretty nicely, for 20yrs. You're keeping the car original, so I'd be inclined to stay with the original points ignition. They really are simple, easy and cheap to service. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 9, 2015 If it's just the first start of the day which is difficult, then I'd look at fuel supply issues too - a sticky drain-back valve, as has been suggested. And/or a non functioning accelerator pump in the carby. Carby issues are quite likely, if it's been on LPG for much of it's life. Like the Dizzys, Stromberg carbies are wonderfully simple devices. Full rebuild kits are under $40 usually. Don't be afraid to rebuild it yourself. (just don't do what Nath25 did with his one) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Falcon-XW-XY-XA-XB-Stromberg-WW-Carburettor-Gasket-Kit-NOS-Fairlane-/300725804237?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item4604a79ccd Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 Thanks but the carby is new so shouldn't need a rebuild. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 9, 2015 Thanks but the carby is new so shouldn't need a rebuild. New how? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 9, 2015 Went to a carby specialist and got a reconditioned Stromberg Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 10, 2015 Went to a carby specialist and got a reconditioned Stromberg Why not stick with the original Carby? They are date coded you know. Reconditioned doesn't mean rebuilt and working correctly though, so I'd put a question mark over that Carby. Try re-fitting the original one, and see if it's any different. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 10, 2015 That's weird - that is what I thought I would do. 1 SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,873 Posted June 11, 2015 That's weird - that is what I thought I would do. I hate reconditioned anything, with a passion. Especially when done by a third party - as usually it's done to a price, and can often be troublesome. Reconditioning, is just a fancy word for: 'cheap rebuild'. Little things like that, will also devalue the car. Not having the original parts etc. If parts have been changed in the past, and are not date matching when you get the car, that can't be helped, but any/all parts which are still original, it's important to preserve and retain them with the vehicle IMO. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gerry Ahern 366 Posted June 11, 2015 Yeh, I have all stuff that was originally on it carefully put away Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
