SLO247 1,713 Posted March 28, 2015 I've got a 92 XF ute here with the EST dizzy. Firstly it looks like the weber has been swapped to an earlier type with no tps on it. I plan to fit a holley anyway. In the interests of pissing off as much vacuum and emissions clutter as possible and to simplify things with the earlier weber and holley, I'd like to remove the EST ECU and loom and fit the early dizzy. Would I be correct in saying it goes straight in and the two wires are just run to the coil? I know the advance curve is graphed in, will I lose total advance over the EST unit? I'm quite a novice with carbys etc. What's the bare minimum needed for the weber to work? Vac from manifold, pcv, power to idle solenoid and choke, what else? Without the EST unit to run I hope to eliminate most of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,328 Posted March 28, 2015 i've always swapped the est to the vac advance one when i had issues, often something was wrong with it.. just the 2 wires to the coil yes. as for it working better.. not convinced, i've had good est things go well, put on the vac advance and noted no difference. as for the webber.. pretty sure the idle shut off solenoid is the main thing, often 12v+ on ign, but some early ones were vacuum switched? wont idle without it. choke usually gets 5V+? think its only 5, from the alternator. should run with out it if the manifold has water plumbed in and well.. it would be better as manual in that case. unplug the EST computer.. or remove it entirely. i left mine in place plugged in often, but once had some wierd issue that was caused by a faulty est still connected. if it works, dont touch it lol.. my new rule 1 SLO247 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFChris 126 Posted March 28, 2015 Vac advance dizzy bolts in the same, plug to engine bay loom will be different, you'll have to cut and solder wires, or do as I did, make up a patch loom so it's all plug/play and reversible. I think one engine bay plug which the EST dizzy used is now left unplugged. I'm not sure if performance difference is noticeable or even exists, but with a new/cleaned up rotor button and cap, should go more or less the same. I took vaccuum from the same place that the MAP sensor did. Carby wiring is still the same. You could find a spare idle cut solenoid, then cut the plunger down so it wont need power run to it, but you may have run on at times. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted March 28, 2015 If I can buy into to this argument of EST v's electronic Id suggest the EST smashes the electronic in every way. If you plan on some performance mods leave the EST in place and fit a 3.3 manual control module.It uses a DC square wave signal that out performs the electronic magnet and reluctor wheel set up easily. By keeping the temp sensor cooler the EST will keep in more timing as well. There's ways to do it but if you really want the electronic go for that then. 1 matt_lamb_160 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,328 Posted March 29, 2015 Vac advance dizzy bolts in the same, plug to engine bay loom will be different, you'll have to cut and solder wires, or do as I did, make up a patch loom so it's all plug/play and reversible. I think one engine bay plug which the EST dizzy used is now left unplugged. the leaded 1984/1985 XF vac advance dizzy has the right plug. but otherwise XD/XE will need some cut/join there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
