Menice 331 Posted May 2, 2014 I've got an XF Ute with some not so great wiring, it's had the battery moved to under the tray and the wire that's been run to power the engine bay and dash seems small. Was hoping someone could help out with what gauge wire it should be, will be running Thermos off it and msd ignition box etc Also there doesn't seem to be a wire to power a coil does anyone have a diagram or pin out for the factory loom so I can trace it or run new one, and one last thing the fusible links can they be changed to a circuit breaker or something? Missing mine! Sent from my D5503 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nos2 751 Posted May 2, 2014 I'd use 0 gauge to a distribution block. But that's what I'd do. Others will chime in im sure.. 2 XFute-1JZsoarer and slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFute-1JZsoarer 140 Posted May 3, 2014 Even 4 gauge should suffice, but if you can squeeze some 0 gauge in, I'd recommend using it instead too. You'll get less voltage drop over the longer distance with 0 gauge. I get right into my car audio so I've got a little bit of experience with power cables. There's some good wire gauge charts online that can help you, just work out the max current draw you'll pull with everything drawing power, figure out the length you need and check the chart. But you can't really go wrong with some quality 0AWG (AWG = American Wire Gauge). 0 gauge isn't the biggest (0000AWG is), but it's the most common size to use. Just remember that like anything else, not all 0AWG is created equal, so only get the very best your budget allows. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFute-1JZsoarer 140 Posted May 3, 2014 Oh, and keep away from circuit breakers, they aren't the most reliable way to go, and when it comes to power, you don't wanna risk it. Can't go past proper fusing. Fusible links aren't hard to find, try a local car audio specialist or auto electrician, failing that id check EvilBay... 2 Menice and nos2 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFute-1JZsoarer 140 Posted May 4, 2014 One more thing mate, when buying the cable, stick to the OFC type (Oxygen Free Cable), the other type is laced with aluminium and it's utter crap. There's quite a bit to a length of cable these days, it's pretty easy to spend good money on a shit product, so it pays to know as much on the subject as buying any other part for your ride... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Menice 331 Posted May 4, 2014 cheers guys, its already got a seperate cable for the starter so would i still need 0 gauge, i was leaning more towards 2 gauge but like mentioned trying to find some good quality cable that isn't gonna melt or wear out if i run it under the body is proving to be difficult atm... what kind of distibution block are people using? i did see someone using a pass through style one where it goes through a panel or something so you can keep the main lead hidden behind Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregaust 319 Posted May 4, 2014 Not sure in gauge , but I use 16mm2 cable that is rated @ 100 amps , use a 100 amp mega fuse at the battery . I run the 100 amp cable forward , split it to feed a junction block for fans MSD etc etc the go forward to the alternator . I use the gold stereo type distribution blocks . They have the 100 amp cable in and 4 6-8 mm cables out Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Menice 331 Posted May 4, 2014 wouldn't have a pic at all greg? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFute-1JZsoarer 140 Posted May 4, 2014 Even 2 gauge should be fine mate, but the old saying bigger is better is quite true when it comes to power cables. I use 0 gauge to run 2 Monoblock amps that together can pull loads as high as 140A, split by gold plated distribution block to 2x 4 gauge cables (1 to each amp), so it's more than up to the task for your type of application. I also use a heatproof sleeves whenever I need a cable routed near anything hot (such as the amps themselves). The sleeves I use are made of an asbestos type material similar to exhaust wrap. If you go with 0 gauge, you will be safe with adding anything else with a significant power load without needing to upgrade again, and it's not much more than 4 gauge in price. Also, it pays to use quality fittings as these can also add resistance. The only restriction I find is space, as 0 gauge is a hassle to route through the car, but is quite easy to get around with a bit of thought. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Menice 331 Posted May 4, 2014 yeh wiring isn't an issue, trying to find the right kind of wire as i dont want to use your regular audio power wire need something a little more robust lol... does someone have a loom diagram for the engine bay still need to find some wires i'm missing? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
XFute-1JZsoarer 140 Posted May 5, 2014 It doesn't really get more robust than audio type power cables (it is only cable, it's just more commonly used in audio setups) the only other cable that comes close is welders cable, and that's usually used as a cheaper alternative to audio cable anyway. I doubt your entire car would draw anywhere near 140 amps, but that's what I regularly run when using test tones through the amps. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
