Car intermittently cutting out, suspect elecy issue

[XFChris 126]

My XF 250 xflow has got a an issue where it sometimes cuts out, and isn't able to restart for sometime

 

It did it today, a few times slowing down the engine cut out as I slowed down to a low speed in a higher gear, but the engine came back to life as I clutched out in a lower gear.

 

It then died at an intersection and would not start again for 10-15 mins.

 

It's a dual fuel car and didn't want to start on either fuel until 10-15 min later, was running on petrol as it played up.

 

 

Why do I suspect electrical issue?
Compression: Obviously there as the engine came back to life afterward

Air: Had a new air filter put in a month or so ago, it can't be dirty enough to choke the motor

Fuel: Fuel pump (electric) seemed to still be operating when the car wasn't able to restart, fuel lines felt pressurised and accelerator pump was audibly pumping fuel.

Spark: Wasn't able to check for spark at the break down site, but I think this is the issue

 

I'm running the stock igniton system AFAIK, only thing that has been replaced recently is the plugs with the correct spec ones.

 

-Coil doesn't look new

-Dizzy would be a EST from factory, no idea of its condition, or that of the rotor cap and button

-Leads looked ok on visual inspection (no deterioration of boots)

-No idea about alternator, I do get the battery light coming on when I start the car, and it sometimes stays on until I give a rev.

 

What item is likely to be causing my issue, and how would I be able to test it? I don't want to spend an arm and leg playing the elimination game.

 

 

Managed to limp the car home by starting it (once it decided it wanted to start) and revving it while stopped, got it home, turned it off then back on, and it idled fine, wtf?

[Mr Polson 10,214]

Its normal for the battery light to stay on until you increase the rpm past 1,000 on first start up.

 

Check what the spark looks like by earthing it across the rocker cover with a screwdriver and cranking motor briefly.

[XFChris 126]

Sometimes the battery light goes out as soon as it starts.

 

I'll do a few alternator tests over the weekend. A few guys have suggested it could be an alternator issue. Might be a good chance for me to upgrade to 55/60A.

 

 

Also, do EST dizzy's tend to randomly fail, then work again after some time?

 

EDIT:

 

A voltage check with car running shows:

At battery 13.1V

At alternator 14.03 V

 

Significant voltage drop, I'll have to check the connections.

[Yonesy 1]

Definitely check the fuel cutout solenoid on the side of the carbi. If that is playing up the car will stall when your foot is off the accelerator. It has a wire connected and what i have done in the past is just put a jumper lead on the positive of the battery and then tap it on the connector on the carbi a couple of times to "free" it up a bit. If it doesnt make a tapping sound when you do that it is completely dead. If you take the solenoid out and replace it with a short bolt i think that will just bypass that system. (But i believe the point of having that solenoid is to stop run on... I never found it to be a massive problem tho)

 

i found a pic

http://forums.justcommodores.com.au/attachments/vb-vk-holden-commodore-1978-1985/47156d1210141141-weber-conversion-help-rgh2222.jpg

it is the spade connector in the right, for some reason on this carby the connector is bend up...

[Mr Polson 10,214]

[XFChris 126]

If it was the fuel cut solenoid playing up, then in theory the car should still be able to start and run on LPG when it dies on petrol. but that wasn't the case today.

 

It has always started ok from dead cold on petrol. I'm thinking it's now something that fails when it gets hot.

 

Could the coil be the culprit?

[Yonesy 1]

O ok, yeah true. But yeah definitely could be the coil then..

[Stevemack 122]

Sounds dizzy to me mate, modules are always shitting themselves.

[XFChris 126]

Sounds dizzy to me mate, modules are always shitting themselves.

 

I have a EST dizzy. Would it be a faulty EST computer, or something in the actual dizzy?

[VDO 124]

Ignition module on the distributor. 

 

They will usually fail intermitently until they eventually fail completely.

 

At least check the connections to the module, remove clean and re-attach.

 

Also remove the module and check for any wetness.

[XFChris 126]

Ignition module on the distributor. 

 

They will usually fail intermitently until they eventually fail completely.

 

At least check the connections to the module, remove clean and re-attach.

 

Also remove the module and check for any wetness.

 

You mean the plug on the EST dizzy. I didnt see a module on the dizzy itself.

 

I'll check the EST computer too, if it has wetness, is it rubbish, or can I use a water dispersant on it?

[XFChris 126]

Plug on dizzy looked good on the inside, no sign of corrosion of terminals.

 

EST module was dry as a bone from what I could see/feel.

 

I had a look at the dizzy cap and rotor button today. Both looked like they had been in service for some time. Will replace soon.

 

 

[VDO 124]

Hmmm... they don't look good.

 

I would be surprised if they're the cause of the stalling though.

[XFChris 126]

Tried to take the XF for a drive last night, wouldn't start so gave up and went back indoors.

 

Tried again today, no start still. Checked for spark and was none.

 

Wiggled the plug on the Dizzy which I think goes to EST unit, after that it was able to start. I saw that the spark was orange.

 

Switched it off, took off dizzy cap and rotor to clean them up a bit with emery paper. Put them back on.

 

Took a bit of cranking to start, but it did. I'm thinking the EST plug, or the unit itself is the issue.

 

 

I may give cleaning the EST computer plugs a try, contact cleaner fine to use?

 

Though I am tempted to find a solid state dizzy and put that in.

[ZL. 19]

How far does your spark jump? it should jump atleast 25mm, when in ambient pressure, as when the spark has to jump the plug in the motor its heaps more pressure. if that makes sense

[ZL. 19]

When coils get old and worn out they get hot, so if its getting hot after running for a short time then its time for a new one.

[XFChris 126]

I have put in a Solid State/Electronic dizzy. The car now starts like it should, and stayed running for the good half hour while I was setting timing.

I'll roadtest sometime next week and update.

[Joelxf92 14]

I'm having similar problems if I post a video of the rough duel you guys recon you could help out

 

 

Cheers Joel!!

[Outback Jack 6,352]

For the Plug for the dizzy, clean with contact cleaner, then apply some Dialectric grease to the connector pins and reconnect, helps prevent moisture getting in.

Glad ya gotit sorted.

 

Jack.

[Joelxf92 14]

Hey mate is the issue fixed Mate I hade really similar issues mine was the idle control solenoid to test it pull the wire off the solenoid and your motor should stall. If it doesn't your ICS could e buggered I took mine out and chopped the pin off and blew it out so nothing goes in to the carbie and she ran beautifully after that.

 

 

Cheers Joel!!