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Showing results for 'radiator'.
Found 564 results
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Have you recently washed the engine? Driven through deep water? Got any air bubbles in radiator with cap off? Does engine overheat? Excessive steam from tailpipe?
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remember dont keep your hamster in the radiator
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A radiator can be blocked and you not know until the symptoms youve got start. Flushing will never dislodge all the shit especially if the radiator has been empty of water for a while before being used again. The water will flow through all the large parts of the radiator but its the small bits that block and cause issues. Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
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It was still spinning... I didn't even check the radiator, I'm just going on the assumption its good? It doesn't leak or anything... and wasn't blocked when I flushed it at the start of the year when I done the water pump...
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If it was locked up it would be spinning constantly and therefore cooling... You mention ute was getting warm when idling and going up a hill. Have you also ruled out blocked radiator? Fan shouldnt make a lot of difference once your moving. 94DA is EF. Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk 2
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I reckon thermos are a worthwhile conversion. Did the conversion on my EB Falcon. Not much of a seat o' the pans power gain but I reckon I picked up 50km extra per tank of LPG because the engine doen't need to push a fan all the time - hence a fuel saving. I used EL fans because the wiring up made more sense to me than the EF version. I also used factory wiring/relay blocks and engine bay fuse block because it saved a lot of arseing around. Easy to remove from a wreck and can be used with the Davies Craig switches. I used the variable switch. With regards to those, use the plastic gizmos that enable them to be installed into to top radiator hose (someones pictured it in an earlier post) - it's simply a much neater solution for sensor location My install isn't particularly sophisticated. Both fans come on at once and at a fixed speed but appears to work a treat. Haven't has any issues with cooling since. Takes a little gettting used to not hearing fan roar though - the engine does sound quite different without the added noise....
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We put el thermos on my Cleveland $129 off eBay brand new, the way my mate wired them up was through a controler but the sensor is just a bit of wire that goes on the inside of the radiator hose when the water temp gets to about I think 90degrees they come on flat out and cool it down real quick
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Whos using what housings on their clevo? Id like to get chromed or polished alloy but have provision for thermo switches but dont seem to be able to find anything suitable. Do i buy the shitty looking cast one and polish it or the chrome one and drill and tap the switch holes? Or does anyone have any other suggestions on fitting the switches ( apart from the probe tucked into the radiator hose)?
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thanks for the advice guys, bolt has been removed. Just waiting on a puller, then i'll remove the radiator and pull the balancer off. Water pump was just done a month ago so that'll stay.
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Radiator, definitely, fan I'm not too sure about, but Gregory manual says yes.
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oil level is fine, might think about replacing the balancer with a powerbond street unit as they're not terribly expensive. Does the radiator and fan need to come out?
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Watch out for chuck norris i got him to remove mine and he pushed crank right through the radiator haha, nahh well ive made a small slide hammer for them and the work well, or cold chisel it from the lip in two seperit spots bit by bit and they come out easy as.
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In what? XF Ghia has it in the radiator tank below the cap. Anything OHC has it in the header tank. I reckon it should go off at about half that.
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Earth the sender wire? Ie. Put sender wire on neg of battery. Same deal? If this fixes it make sure your radiator is earthed. The radiators on our old falcons are insulated. You have to add an earth wire. There is a tab near the sender in the radiator. Put your earth piggyback here with a self tapper metal screw.
