wagoon

So never then

Yeah Orrcon are the only steel mob I can find that do any pipe under 2mm wall, problem is it is 170km round trip to go get pipe from them. So the extra I have to pay for the above pipe makes up for the petrol I would use. Does $17.40 per metre sound expensive?

Went to a truck parts place today for another reason and while I was there I enquired about exhaust tubing. I was quoted $17.40 for a 1 metre length of 2 1/4 inch OD with 1.8mm wall. I was fine until he got to wall thickness, I'm guessing that is a bit to much on the thick side? So what are the generally excepted wall thickness of exhaust and does it change depending if it's in the extractors or in the exhaust system itself.

I thought they offered silver fox on xy's as well, I'm probably wrong again. Gunmetal grey was the colour I was trying to think of, brings back memories of my dads uncles v8 EH in gunmetal grey.

Thanks for that. So if 1.6mm is the norm would there be any disadvantage using the 1.8mm wall, I have calculated the weight difference between the 1.6mm and 1.8mm wall thickness to be 300 grams per metre so the weight is no big deal. The pipe OD is 2 1/4 inches so wall thickness only effects ID which is 2 1/8 inches

I was looking around and noticed Superpro do an idler arm with rubber one end and neoprene the other. Shopping around I found it for $59 GSL Rallysport but never saw it over $70.

Gloss black is the hardest colour to keep nice. You will see every mark in it, washing it will we a nightmare. Get a swirl and you will have to detail the whole panel. Black looks the best when done right but that includes all the care as well. And yes any panel imperfection will stick out like dogs balls

Cheers guys. Yeah my wagon has TRW from repco but I haven't even covered 10,000km's yet. They did look ok but they all look pretty good when they are new and shiny

Well I am just about to buy these parts for my car. So I will be doing sprints and motorkana style events so I need parts that are not going to wear out fast or fail. As Deandx said in post 18 on the first page what do historic race cars use? They cant all use heim/rose joints and they are not legal on the road. What do speedway guys use? Are TRW the best you can get or is it a case of one brand make the better tie rod ends but anther company make the best idler arm and so.

What about a dark grey colour? Mind you silver fox which was on the xy gt's is a nice colour

I can vouch for the pic Ando posted as that is my hand holding the pressure gauge attached to my roller cammed crossflow in my shed. I have a spare hi volume oil pump sitting in my shed that I wont sell to anyone cause I dont feel right in passing on something that will hurt someone elses engine. I wouldnt even give it away.

You could also look into Synthetic Resin Bonded Fabric which is basically the same as bakelite and can be cut just like wood with routers etc. I bought a 600x150 off cut 12mm thick for $50 which I am going to use as an inlet manifold insulator on my crossflow. I am also using it to taper the manifold runners down to my cylinder head runners size for a smoother transition into the head

Nice engine by the sounds mate. The 6al2 will work great for you, and you could look at a blaster HVC2 coil part# 8253. That's the setup I will be using on my solid roller cam crossflow. Speaking of cam you didn't mention anything about the cam in your post but guessing it is a hydraulic as you havent changed to rollers yet. Will need some cam specs and intended use for the car to help with carb selection.

An optimised engine will always use less fuel, make more power and torque and run cleaner. Factory setup is always on the very safe side regardless of what you buy as even mass produced performance parts have to be made for the mass market which includes simple holden owners. Thom I would pick the middle collector.

Do you want proper setups or is dodgey looking ok. I made a CAI for my xe by using the intake tube from an xf that goes around the battery. Placed the mouth down by the radiator protected by the bumper from stuff flying in. Then joined to the carby aircleaner snout. Looks very dodgey but was solid, cant say I felt any different like I did when I removed the rubber seal on the aircleaner lid.

Got to agree with sly, being different is cool and a triple carb crossflow sticking out of the bonnet would fit the bill. But no matter how cool it looks, if you start the car and sounds like a bad of shit or if you drive it away and it stuttering and spluttering the coolness will evaporate very quickly. Then the car will just look/sound under done. Never stop having ideas and never stop asking questions, but sometimes you have to let an idea go when it turns out it is so much more trouble than its worth. But if you really really want to do it then all the hassle and drama is worth it and we are always here to bounce ideas off.

What do you guys think of using a manifold like an aussie speed or something in that shape. Cut of the single carby mount and area under the carby. The cut the outside of the runner for 1&6 leaving the top and bottom untouched down to around were 2&5 runners. Then make a new section just like the carby mounting section that was cut out but so that it mounts the 3 carbies. I would envisage the carbies would be mounted fairly high so that you could have enough volume under the carbies for all three carbies and to allow for tapering to the outside runners for smoother air flow. Sorry for the really basic drawing but hopefully you get the idea. Clearly the drawing isn't to scale as the carbies would take up a lot more room but do you think this might be plausible. I know the weight of the carbies may be an issue.

Would imagine you could cut 3 standard manifolds and keep runners 34 only. Then block off where the other runners where making sure that there were no dead zones that would trap air and/or fuel. Then repeat 2 other times. Simple. Sorry I have no idea on who might take on the task.

I don't have a kill switch fitted yet. I went with something more visual as a deterrent. It's multi strand stainless wire with a plastic cover around the wire. I wrap one end around the brake pedal and then weave it in and around the wheel then lock it with a pad lock. I know it won't stop anyone serious in stealing the car but it should stop the dickheads.

Now that's what I call round the outside. Bloody good job certainly does go

Thought I would update this again. I have sprayed the rear quarter with 5 coats of colour and 5 coats of clear on each side. I stuffed up and didnt sand back the high fill enough but I think I did alright for my first attempt at proper painting. Well as proper as spray cans can be anyway. Colour seems to match pretty well, I will buff the clear after letting it sit for a while.

Update. Went into parts place this morning and asked for French Blue. There system had it under paint code E and N both were for years 1982 and 1983, guessing one is the falcon and the other is for the laser as mentioned above as both paints were identical in makeup. Mixed up the paint and it looks pretty much spot on. So big thank you to everyone for your input and help. Once again the knowledge here is outstanding.

Cheers guys that helps heaps. The outside of the car is far from being as blue as the engine bay.

Yeah the bolt would work but as you said it wont match the outside anyway. Grill is black and there is no other trim parts painted in the body colour. If I get stuck on colour I will go with the bolt idea thanks

Not quite sure how I would go about getting a sample. Probably the best idea on colour matching as the outside has faded a bit.