wagoon

Yep activates when torque is applied and deactivates when no load is placed on diff. The first series clicked quite bad when driving around corners but newer ones were suppose to be ok . Apparently there is also a large driveline shunt when they do engage.

Yeah I'm keen to hear any experiences. I was dead set on one but have moved away slightly, just no quite sure how they affect handling especially understeer. For the money they are defiantly worth a look. I think 4:15 mark of this video is quite telling as I would say the driver is on it

Couple of links for you to check out This set will fit a crossflow (12 only for 6 cylinder) and are 5/16 which are bolt on http://www.scorpioncheckout.com/category_s/206.htm This is yella terra 7/16 stud mount and as Ando said will require machining of the head http://store.yellaterra.com.au/ford-v6-yella-terra-platinum-7-16-rockers-ratio-1-73-yt6345/ This link show yella terra range for crossflow http://store.yellaterra.com.au/categories/roller-rocker-sets/ford/ford-6-inline/ford-inline-6-australian/ford-inline-6-crossflow-1976-1993.html?sort=priceasc

This pic shows the difference in length between e series sedan and long wheel base models tailshafts. Black one is from an ed sedan (steel) other one is from an xh ute (alloy) Full view

Once again wagoon= simplistic dribble that compares apples to oranges using bananas as an example then Someone who knows what they are talking about= someone who knows what they are talking about and makes sense with a technical bases to the argument

Firstly there are 2 different 6al2's. One clearly states it is programmable the other will not mention it at all. You want to buy the Programmable one. The reason being is you can hook up a laptop to the programmable and set all your own maps for timing or the dyno operator can set it all up. Think it of this way, the programmable one is just like getting a full custom tune on any fuel injected motor with mapping to suit your engine. A locked timing is just like getting a tune for a fuel injected motor where you can't change a thing and what you get is what you get. This is a very simplistic view point of the topic but is the easiest way I understand it. The locked timing has it's place in race cars but on the street where driving changes from wide open throttle to start stop traffic and anywhere in between it can be difficult to get the tune right. Yes you can use locked on the street but as always there is a compromise, where as the 6al2 programmable can be programmed at 100rpm increments with a laptop and the entire tune can be changed with a click of a mouse button.

At the moment I am looking around for an AU diff hat, but I have come across a fairly cheap diff with lsd in it. Yes I know the AU diff doesn't suit x series thats why I have 2 ed diffs in the shed with different ratios. So my question is if a diff is removed for a car is it possible to truly test the condition of the lsd as everyone selling always says they are tight.

Yeah Jack I was thinking of taking some wheels with me and holding one end up in the air and trying to turn the tyre thats in the air. Pro that is the exact info I needed and I like you thinking with the vice. Will defiantly give it a go Cheers guys

The process you use comes down to the makeup of the steel as all of these steels will be technically alloys as the will contain several different alloying elements which makes them suitable for the job. For example at work when we temper a steel (temper removes the brittleness of the steel but also makes the steel tuff) we try and keep the temperature lower so as not to reduce the hardness, but there are steel that the hotter you temper the harder it gets.

I wouldn't quite go that far sly. Hardness testing is one of the most frustrating parts of my job because it is so easy to stuff a test from over heating the steel, just need more patience. Worse part is if you overheat the surface you have to remove a small layer to then test underneath which I'm guessing would be a bad thing on con rods

You need to be careful when grinding/linishing or polishing steel because if the steel becomes to hot to touch you have changed the surface hardness. I do hardness testing at work and have to get a polished finish and had on occasion over heated the steel which has changed the hardness result. The more course the grinding disc the less heat is put in but if using fine grade flap disc or linisher belts the job will heat up very fast. It is best to hold the steel in your hand without gloves(DON'T use a grinder in one hand while holding the job in the other) if possible as it takes only a few seconds to over heat the steel if there is already heat in it.

I believe leaded fuel was about 96 ron. Compression ratio will determine if 98 is crucial or not, its never a bad thing to use 98 but if you need to use it as a daily and want to use 95 to keep cost down just dont shave it so much. You will need the dish of your piston to workout compression.

shaving the head and having a combustion chamber that size will bump up your compression ratio. I tried to fit the efi rocker cover on my wagon with a stock webber on a stock manifold and it didn't fit as it hit the carby. A small spacer should take care of that though

Yeah mate had to fit them to get my wagon registered. I just followed the guide and it was a peice of piss. The hardest part was getting the door realigned. From memory I lubed the bushes push them in and then gently tapped them home with a hammer. I actually have to do them for my sedan to get registered but I grabbed the hinges off an xh ute I pulled apart so will just get new bushes.

That video looks pretty close to the way a tyre is made in the first place just the last few steps. So long as the tyre doesnt wear out stupid quick and therefore not worth the savings I cant see what the problem is. In fact I would rather that process in Australia than paying full price for a brand name tyre which is made in china anyway which may fail because of the lack of quaility control.

I bought a pair off ebay that were unused because no one had them when I was looking, althought they were the newer reusable pins with the c clips.

If the process is different to caps and its all good then why not. I know first hand that a particular racer/burnout crew use this sort of thing on their burnout cars as it is SO much cheaper. So if the burnout tyres dont fail during a show they must be pretty good. I have always thought it was heat build up and/or the manufacturing process that causes the problems with caps as they grind the tyres down to then put the tread back on. The only tyre I have ever blown on a car was a cap.

Dont know anything about the history of the car and going by the rust repairs I would say your on the mark Jack. Dont have a bearing puller but once its off the car I will have a look and I might be able to work something out. As I was typing about cutting I knew you would say that Ando. Just nervous about removing the bolt as the pump isnt leaking and I hate taking stuff apart that is fine. Will have to wait till the weekend now to give the sealant enough time to dry. If the mount is that good I should probably save it for my roller although the pulley on the balancer is further forward on the roller.

Ok so about 5-6 weeks ago I replaced the water pump and fan clutch on my wagon. I got the water pump (believe it was a gmb brand) from my local parts place along with 2 new gates belts. The old fan clutch had seized causing the fan to lock and when traveling at highway speed(which I do everyday) the belts would start to slip, so I drove slower so the belts would not slip but had to drive like that for about a week and the belts did slip a few times. After replacing the water pump, fan clutch and belts I went for a 10 minute drive come home and retensioned the belts. The belts started slipping again so I added belt grip and retensioned the belts again. About 3-4 days after applying the belt grip and retensioning the belts for the third time this metallic scraping type noise started from the front of the engine http://vid1289.photobucket.com/albums/b507/wagoon1/20150124_090014_zpsl0irrftt.mp4 The metallic noise speeds up in the vid because I revved the engine a couple of hundred rpm, if I rev it more the noise gets drowned out by the noise of the engine. The noise is only there when the car is cold. I took the vid this morning, I warmed the car up to 100 degrees F(could still hear the noise as I left home) then drove 6km's to my local post office and the noise had gone. The noise is gradually getting louder over time but the actual noise has not changed at all in the time I could hear it. My guess was either the belts are to tight when cold and loosen as the belts warm up or the belt grip has got into maybe the alternator and stuffed something but that doesn't explain why the noise goes away when warm. I don't want to loosen the belts though as the belts slip now when I rev out the engine and change gears(manual gearbox) I can't tell what rpm as I don't have a tach but it happens changing 2nd-3rd @80km/h and 3rd-4th @100ishkm/h

I pulled the alternator off and was going to put another one on, well learnt today that the spare xf one I have is different which requires mounting bracket to be changed. As the xf bracket requires removal of the lower water pump bolt I didnt bother. So I inspected the one that was on the car. None of the fins are damaged or bent but when I grabbed the pulley and gave it a wriggle there was some play. If the alternator was on the car rocking the pulley from around 12 - 6 oclock it didnt move to much but when wriggling from 2 -8 oclock it moved a fair bit more. In comparison the spare xf one had zero movement. So I liberally applied WD, mounted it back on the car tensioned the belts and started the car for the first time today. The "scraping" noise was gone replaced by more of a whirring noise which was much quieter than the scraping noise. Im thinking now I will cut the cast xf bracket to suit just the alternator as I dont have ac so shouldnt need the mount that goes around to the bottom of the water pump. I will then get the one on the car now recoed as it actually stamped as a 60A.

So why would the sound go away when the car is at running temp?

Yesterday I removed the belt and gave the alternator a free spin and applied some WD. I then put the belt back on and retentioned it a little bit tighter than before. Started the car and the noise was not there, then after about 2-3 minutes at idle the noise returned. Went for a drive and I could not hear the noise after a 10 minute drive, but did try some hard acceleration and the belts did not slip at all so that's a win. So today I will start the car again then I will spray WD on the alternator while the car is running to 100% confirm it is the alternator.

Thanks jack forgot about doing that. I was nervous trying to make the belt tighter but will take the belt off spray the alternator and try and retension the belt. I have a bit of a bad habit of overtightening things so I try and not go to hard.

Ok fair enough. The belt on the alternator is not a tight as the one on the power steering which is still not that tight. Power steering belt moves just over half the thickness of the belt when pressed in the middle with one finger, alternator belt moves just over 1 belt thickness when pressed between the alternator and crank pulley. Will change the alternator and see what happens.

Yeah thought I was a tough one but it gives me a place to start. Can I refurb my pulleys as they are very shiny due to the excessive belt slip when the fan clutch seized?