Thom

Sounds like it will come up quite reasonably with mostly elbow grease and a handful of parts

5.4 Will be a tight fit, the 3v engine the Fairmonts have is a bit of a sluggish, but slightly smaller than the squad cam 5.4's Au 5.0's are a pretty nice engine for what they are but the biggest problem is most headers don't fit them due to the gt40p heads au engines have, gt40p's have the spark plug re located compared to other Windsor heads Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Definitely alot better than the 140rwkw it made on the stock tune

A really good one probably around 120-130ish rwkw depending on the dyno

Being above the water pump, there's not as much support under that part of the block, overe torquing can crack the block

One big thing just like a crossflow the head bolt over the water pump shouldn't be torqued up to the 3rd stage like the rest of the head bolts, otherwise if nothing is too worn out just throw some rings/bearings/gaskets and the biggest drama you'll have after that is sorting the carb out

Not really, just treat it like a 6 cylinder Windsor, bent push rods and burnt valves are some of the more common failures (due to people miss adjusting the rockers or people trying to start one that's been sitting without checking for stuck valves) broken rings aren't too uncommon over half of the pre xflows I've pulled apart have had at least 1 and that's probably the cause of your marks on the top of that piston, they usually don't seem to damage the bore or ring lands when they do it which is strange, one big thing replace the welc plugs on the exhaust side of the head they are about the only ones (other than the one in the bellhousing) that are next to impossible to change in the car, I like to turn them into a pcv engine rather than a road draft one, I turn the road draft tube upside down and shorten it then use a rubber grommet to hold a pcv in the former road draft tube then plumb it to the intake, they are no power house but a nice running one should have no problems sitting on 70-80mph all day long

You can mix and match the heads, but they did have different combustion chambers and valves for the different size engines, you couldn't put a 200 head on a 144 without notching the tops of the bore to clear if you were running a big cam etc, but when you get to xy-xb 200 and 250 they are slightly different animal to the earlier engines, they are both the same bore as each other and a taller deck height than the 144-221 engines, the xy-xb engines were all hydraulic cam and no adjustable rockers, all 144 and 170 up to xp were solid cam with adjustable rockers, most xp 200's were hydraulic cam but I have heard of the odd one having a solid cam, I'm not certain on the xr to xw engines as I haven't had much to do with them, xr still had 170 and 200 as engine options both were supposed to be hydraulic cam engines xt and xw the 170 grew to 188 cubes and the 200 grew to 221 these were the last engines that had the short water pump and they are the only true bolt in upgrade to an early falcon that doesn't require an engineer certificate, the xy and later engines (including crossflow) have a longer water pump and require the radiator to be moved forward, a deeper sump either requiring the engine to be spaced up or use xr/xt engine mounts that lift the engine so it doesn't hit the drag link on full lock, with the 200/250 xy-xb engines you can't use early falcon specific headers and the taller deck height makes the collector hit the floor, sorry i went on a bit of a tangent there

She's a narrow block, looking at your pics, but you have a hi comp head so that's a good start

What is the head casting no?, 170's had 2 heads the standard head had 170 behind the carb flange like this And the high comp 170 had 170h cast into the head like this Being a wide block I would have thought it would have 7 mains, at least that's what I'd always been told, wide blocks were first released in automatic xp 170's (the 200's were a narrow block with an adapter) and then all engines were wide block sometime in xr, your engine looks like it'll clean up OK, it'll give you an excuse to make a run stand

They're a month older than me

That hole is for the exhaust srossover that runs under a stock intake for manifold heating/egr valve, if you're using an aftermarket intake they will be blocked off

Might be worthwhile looking up bill hooton on Facebook, he does barra looms & ecu's to suit sohc, he may be able to make one work on a crossflow

It is a pain in the arse, but pulling the original lash adjusters apart, cleaning them and re assembly yields a better result 90% of the time, the aftermarket lash adjusters just don't seem to last very long before they become noisy

The V8 t5 isn't any better than a 6 cyl t5 as far as strength is concerned, I don't know why they are longer, there could be a bunch of reasons for it

I don't know, I've never come across a V8 flywheel to check

There's alot to go through here and I'm guaranteed to miss something but the short answer is using a 6 cylinder t5 and a crs or modified 4 speed bellhousing will put the shifter through the stock hole in the floor, a factory xf t5 (or modified single rail) crossmember will work and a stock single rail (assuming stock diff) tailshaft will work, off the shelf headers will work too (factory eb-au ones are garbage and will interfere with a right hand starter Windsors and Cleveland's have the same engine mounts and bellhousing pattern and their relationship to each other is the same for both engines, a Cleveland has a taller deck height and physically larger heads making a Cleveland taller and wider than a 302 Windsor bust slightly narrower than a 351 windsor ( 302 Windsor 8.2 inch deck height, Cleveland deck height 9.2 inches, 351 Windsor 9.5 inch deck height The path of least resistance for what you want to do would be to use a 6 cyl t5 (preferably e series falcon) and a crs or modified stock bellhousing (you will have to get a flywheel to suit, make sure it is one that has a 50oz balance to suit the roller windsor, a stock or upgraded e series t5 clutch will work) with one of their trans mounts (or make your own) the rest of the stock driveline should work

It should bolt on, I can't remember if there's any oiling differences in the early pre xflow's compared to the xt and later engines, but comparing head gaskets should be able to tell you pretty fast, there is one downside if it does all work, you will find a decent drop in compression

It does, but dads a has a bigger fuel system than what is supplied with the sniper kit

Its semi return less, the reg is right near the tank and fuel pump and returns without going to the engine first

The number is usually in either of these two locations

I love the holley sniper we put on dads clevo, the only downside I've seen is they can be rather finniky with dual plane intakes Before After

You will need to look on the opposite side of the engine, Australian 5.0 had a left hand starter the yank ones didn't, if you look on the opposite side where the starter would be with a right hand starter you should find your engine number

A few things to consider, converting an efi 5.0 to carb is exceptionally easy, its everything else that will give you headaches, any carb intake and non ecu controlled distributor is all you need and the engine will run like it was born that way. Here's the list of obstacles you will have to overcome depending on how much of the 5.0 stuff you want to use Fuel pump/ timing cover front accessories: If you want to run a mechanical fuel pump you will have to change to an earlier timing cover with a fuel pump boss and you will have to fit a fuel pump eccentric to the cam, this will also mean you have to change to an earlier waterpump as the 5.0 ones spin the opposite direction, alternator, p/s and a/c (depending on what your using) will all have to be v belt style and brackets as the serpentine set up won't work with an early timing cover, you may have to source a different balancer depending on what pulleys you need, it is very important to a 58ounce balancer and flywheel with a roller 5.0 a balancer to suit an early 302/289/260/221 will cause massive vibrations and possibly break the crank, if you want to use the serpentine setup you will have to use an electric fuel pump The trans you have if its from a falcon is an Australian only btr 4 speed auto and is a very different unit from the aod and aode's the us 5.0l used, these btr's are an electronic controlled auto and very difficult to set-up to run as a normal auto without using the engine ecu to talk to the trans tcu, I know shiftkits Australia make a standalone controller to suit btr's but as far as I'm aware they only have a manual shift option they can't be put into drive and shift themselves any more, c4 or c10 can be used behind the 5.0 and if you use a Cleveland c10 the holes in the flex plate are in the correct location for a Cleveland torque converter, if you use a Windsor converter you will need an aftermarket 58ounce flex plate to couple everything up (another thing to consider is the btr has a left hand starter and off the shelf headers don't clear it) As far as the factory heads go gt40p's are the best iron head but the relocated spark plug means most off the shelf headers don't fit and stock cast iron manifolds don't fit these heads either, you don't want to use the stock 5.0 headers as they are garbage and flow worse than the cast iron manifolds early windsors had

Don't have that much time for a concise answer now, ill jump back on after I get home from work