1980XD

Take the sump off and use a long 10mm socket over the tube and tap it out gently. That’s what I have done in the past for real stubborn ones so I didn’t bend and break them. Not like the early days that you could whip down to the local wreckers for one anymore


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^^^^^
and the exact reason to use quality solid lifters with the laser cut oiling hole on the lifter face. They cost more initially but years of trouble free operation and massively reduced risk of cam break in failure are the pay off. I use the Isky units but camtech and a few other grinders are now selling the lifters in 6 cylinder sets. Well worth it. 
 
If you are careful with your break in procedure and ensure the thing doesn’t even get close to idle in that critical 1st 20 minutes of running then you will be fine with normal solids. But there is a risk. Good quality oil and a bottle of comp Cams engine break in lube mixed in and you’ll go a long way to ensuring successful run in. Just don’t let it get near idle and make sure your pushrods are spinning. 

Normally dot-to-dot is the go if not going to the trouble of degreeing it. If there's a particular need to advance or retard the cam then that's when you would do so.
 
In my case, I shoved mine in 4 degrees advanced and I'm pretty happy with the outcome. The reason why I did that is that clevo cams are designed for 351s, but in a 302 things happen later in the rpm band so to make up for that and bring the torque in earlier, I installed +4.
 
Yours on the other hand, will have a cam designed for that exact displacement as the advertised rpm range will apply to your engine size, so zero would be ideal.
 
If for example, you were putting that cam in a 3.3, you may want to go +4 so you don't have to rev it out to hit the power band.
 
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