deankxf

1 hour ago, Underpants1967 said:

Sounds like I may need to get a tailshaft made up or get someone to make 31 spline yoke withe the smaller uni size. Thanx for the info.

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as Thom said above there's a uni joint that's 2 different sizes for this application

1 hour ago, Underpants1967 said:

The diff is an LSD disc which I thought came from a V8? It has same uni size as my tailshaft as I have already bolted it in prior to removing the crossflow. Does this mean that V8 diffs have different uni size and that I still have a 6 cyl diff?

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V8 diffs had same uni size in my opinion, if borg warner

but i only knew that FMX came in things with 9" diffs which would take the different uni(there's a few different sizes with them also though)

no idea if FMX/top loader only used 9" from factory. but there's ways around it with the custom uni joints as the cheaper way (modded tailshaft another, possibly different size uni in the yoke available? )

1 hour ago, Underpants1967 said:

 

Part way through a V8 conversion in my XC wagon. Ordered a 31 spline yoke to match the FMX however the yoke is wider at the uni end than the old yoke and tailshaft. Too wide to suit the uni joint I have. Do I have the wrong one or do I need to replace the whole tailshaft to match?

 

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you can get a hybrid uni joint to go both sizes,

i think (can't remember) the EB to EL wagon tailshaft used the same uni's as the FMX but then if you are keeping the original 6cyl diff then you'll have the same issue at the diff end.

i'd look into the uni joint that is for both sizes, can't remember what they are called, unless @Thom can think of a better way to do it

2 hours ago, BTS666 said:

Talked to the diff guys, and they said just go a 78 series diff. Heaps cheaper in the long run.

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much easier also if you do make it go bang or just want to swap ratios by way of slapping in a whole diff.  (common ratios EB to EL had are 3.08, 3.23 /3.27 and 3.45 for the XR6) 

57 minutes ago, XCeed said:

And then there is this style of cap:

I'm going to hope someone remembers better, 

but i had an XC GS for a few weeks about 30yrs ago(add that to another car i should have kept) 

it had the 3rd type in black in My memory and the dome was rattly loose (I could have silastic them to stop the rattle if i'd known) i chose to keep My plastic caps over them due to the loose cap domes.

I basically flipped that car for the same price I paid after swapping wheels with bald tyres and a few other things. (i drove it, didn't like it compared to My XE, so sold it again) 

1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

yes thats the one i reckon it is,those other ones he has i reckon are for xb ect,never thought something as simple as this could cause so much confusion,i have taken heaps of these off b4 and always thought they are all the same but nope the bw35 still holds some mysteries of the deep.

if you do get one and it's too long or short or the wrong shape and you decide to cut it (i have done) 
BEFORE YOU CUT it scribe or file or grind a line across the length so you don't end up with it welded on an angle or it will be no good in the bushes etc. (exhaust shop could weld it no issue or whoever does your roof welds

11 minutes ago, ZKFairlane said:

eBay items;

275449225242

275449232652

275449231975 and

275449224143

 

275449225242 looks the closest, but I'm not sure that it's bent correctly (I'll have a look at mine from above tomorrow to see what it looks like).  But it wouldn't take much to re-align it.

yeah no idea why i couldn't find them, maybe marked as NEW  

I agree, this one looks correct where it bolts to the trans, but the rod being bent like that, not sure. i had to cut and weld one once because i mixed n matched rods with the older and or newer shifter and or different trans. 
maybe @SPArKy_Dave can recall any differences?
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/275449225242?hash=item40220da01a:g:vLYAAOSwPkljFwtM

59 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

If you go on e Bay and type bw35 linkage all of them are there reco $99 ea but which one ? I called him and he don't know either he said refer to factory manual so I look in my book and it don't have any pictures but I reckon it's the one with the big metal bit on the end

i couldn't find them on ebay, 

you'll need the metal plate on the end because the column shift used a different doover onto the box that links to the chassis rail.

how much have you got on the T bar linkage you have? got the bolt/nut thing on it also?

23 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

I need a picture of a bw35 linkage for t bar as there is 3 for sale on e Bay and all are different, I contacted the seller he says he don't no either wtf I need one for my conversion.

 

BW40 in XE and XF or does yours have a 35? i think they are same anyway,  i see you've got the early XE or XD handle type, (not the XF style)

try Scott at XDF wreck if you need to buy one, https://www.facebook.com/Xdfwreck likely be heaps cheaper if he has one 

it's going to look like this or similar, got a link to the ebay ones?

you could probably make an XF one fit, can't remember if they are different but they'll be much easier to find

try Scott at XDF wreck if you need to buy one, https://www.facebook.com/Xdfwreck

it's not still connected to the  shifter is it? or the trans?

1 hour ago, Grr351 said:

Hi I have my single rail out of my falcon and would like to replace the selector shaft seal ,what's involved in doing this ? 

1  , remove the six 7/16 bolts from the extension housing which I have done ,how do I pry the extension housing off ? And anything else I need to know ? 

PS also I will replace the extension housing gasket also ,does this gasket need sealer on both sides ?

Thanks in advance 

when i did mine about 20yrs ago,  i'd have used aviation gasket cement on both sides of the gasket (paranoid) 

yeah nothing is holding it on other than the roll pin on the selector shaft to the gearstick housing otherwise. 

i'd remove the speedo drive just to be sure it doesn't snag on something. (if it's XD XE XF etc. prior will be cable and needed removing to get the box out of car)

it might have dowel pins, that are keeping it tight on the box i can't remember. 

probably better off asking a few tuners directly. 

1 hour ago, BTS666 said:

So if I rebuild the original diff, I will try source 28 spline internal and axles?

there's possibly threads By @gerg regarding fitting 28 spline stuff to the 25 spline axles, but generally you'd just fit an EB ED EF EL diff (EF EL had the hand brake inside the disc but very much the same diff, probably more differences) 
the EB diff has a wider bush for the lower trailing arm, fit that (better) on one end of your XF trailing arms or if you get the EB ones, fit an XF one at the front and it will bolt in.
some of the later diffs have adjustable pinion angle (2 sets of top trailing arm mounts, assume for lowered XR6  possible EB GT etc) i've had one and it was from a basic falcon but it wasn't in another so there's no definite finding source. 

4 minutes ago, BTS666 said:

 

What kind of hp do these different generally hold before they grenade?

 

Is it worth rebuilding the factory diff with the gearing I am after, or should I just bite the bullet and source an eb v8 diff? The diff will probably be getting narrowed, as I am planning on running mini tubs.

the EB diff is much stronger,  

XF diff is 25 spline 2 pin center

EB diff 28 spline 4 pin center. 

if you stick a mild 351 in front of a NON LSD XF diff, it will break especially if you are spinning one wheel *(heats up the spider gear pins) 

if you have an LSD one they are better, i've had no issue with LSDs on 140rwkw ish power/torque (1UZ lexus or mild 351 both manuals) 

the reason I stuck with the XF LSD with the 1UZ is due to the engineer wanting Vented discs on rear retained (EB ones are solid) otherwise i'd have stuck the EB diff in. you can get 28spline in the XF style diff, the XE 351s had it and LTD with 351 etc. but they'd be barely possible to identify if you could even find one. 

1 hour ago, Ando81 said:

I’ve got a dual battery system in 2 of my utes and they use this dual battery isolator.

this is what i was thinking of, other battery can be anywhere really.

10 hours ago, Demmo said:

50amp Anderson plug so you could have a permanent connection hard wired

I have seen Anderson plugs mounted in various places(not sure on amps needed for jump starts)

17 minutes ago, Demmo said:

2 smaller car batteries will fit but reducing the length of time for running fridges an lights while having a full starter battery versus a small jump starter battery.

you can chat to a camping solar dude @SPArKy_Dave may not be familiar with? 12v dual battery kits, but there are many that will shut the power off when the battery is still ok to start the van (suspect a 900cca even at 11v would crank that 4cyl van fine for eg) chuck a solar panel on the roof and you'd not likely to need a jump starter anyway depending on current draw of the system (I've only just scratched the surface of this stuff, i think it would be handy to have for future insecure 240v house supply)

3 minutes ago, Demmo said:

So is it advisable to leave these small jump starters corrected all the time

what sort are you planning to use?

there's no way i'd have Lithium Ion unattended on My car.

and those little ones with a lead acid gel type battery are pretty crap. 

i'd sooner fit a dual battery setup if you had to have one?(why do you want one? just fit the best battery that fits in the space?

@SPArKy_Dave might have some thoughts

3 hours ago, Nath said:

Also, from memory that appears to be the top half of the idle solonoid missing there right (first pic)?

i think that is a throttle nudger for when you turn the air con on. probably don't NEED it anyway

i don't know any differences, the ones i did have never gave any issue whatsoever.

1 minute ago, XH302 said:

this assumes you are loading from another website/source as IMG tags are embed in a HTML page. Images are not technically inserted into a web page; images are linked to web pages. won't help me loading person pics. 

just the link is fine, just means we would need to click it to see.

tapatalk app is free to my understanding, but i've still never used it. most people do use that way though.

On 5/6/2023 at 11:15 AM, XH302 said:

%5

 

https://imgur.io/a/AKTUPVX

 

 

have a read of this thread for how to make the photo show, i open the image in a new tab then "right click" copy image address and paste here

9 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

They've probably forgotten what a 34ADM even is...

I've encountered this before, with other 'old school' automotive things.

Similar to how most wheel alignment places, have forgotten how to align x-series.

the people that know anything were likely 30-40yrs old when i got mine, that was 30yrs ago so they are likely retired or turned into managers/desk workers.

biggest reason i went to Pedders instead of "other aligners" is they check to see if the suspension is worn before doing one. (got an alignment from Bob Jane about 20yrs ago and it chewed tyres like it was going out of style, took it to pedders, LOOK HOW WORN THE IDLER ARM and TIE Rod is, no hope of aligning that. )

Carby expert i dealt with last was still working at age 67 but passed away probably age 68 ish(was only working part time 3 days a week)

1 hour ago, Nath said:

it really seems to me like it should fit but nothing is ever that easy.

did you try this mob in Melbourne, they know what a falcon 34ADM is

https://www.weberperformance.com.au/

@Bob Valdez a mate of mine just mentioned an issue with an EL his mate has. 

The injector for number 3 cylinder on my mates EL was BENT, causing a misfire

assume damaged on install? 

8 minutes ago, burnnotice1000 said:

What about for a turbo crossflow, wouldn't tall gears be go ?

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would depend on your spool/lag turbo size i would think. 

if it's a small turbo that spools early (runs out of puff early) it's probably going to be pretty ok, but if its got no low end torque and comes in higher in the rev range i reckon it would be pretty painful to own. 

just being manual the 1st gear ratio is going to be better than a BW40 trans it's got now,