deankxf

6 hours ago, waderobertson said:

That's what the manual says @deankxf. The hand brake is working fine, the arms on the rear of the caliper aren't seized (you can activate them with your hand when everything is connected up) and the cable is adjusted properly. 

 

I guess my question is more to do with setting the caliper itself before refitting, connecting handbrake and build pedal pressure. When I have wound the piston back in to refit pads I haven't touched the mechanism on the back of the caliper that the handbrake levers connect to, you know, the ones that have the rubber seal around them and the nut that holds the lever winds in to. You can wind these mechanisms in and out with a crescent and was wondering if they needed to be adjusted/ set a specific way (i.e. wound right out till you feel resistance? Does it even matter?) in tandem with winding the piston in to fit new pads. Is there a trick/ step I've missed in fitting the pads that I haven't got quite right? I could have a rotor issue or piston may be playing up, but before I head down those paths I just want to make sure it's not a simpler fix. 

 

 

apologies for the late reply

sorry My brain is a bit fried lately,  but to put it simply for you. 

* there's no adjustment on the caliper. so you can rest assured if the piston wound in enough to fit the pads and mount to the diff over the disc it's good enough. 

then it says to press the brake pedal a few times (this will push the pads hard against the disc )
then it says to adjust the U shape thing under the drivers seat(under the car) so you have the caliper levers not quite touching the stops. (I've never checked this before.. doubt it matters, but there might be a reason, even if it's to stop wear on the caliper body?

that's it. 

good to go. 
 

11 minutes ago, waderobertson said:

Caliper is fine, hand brake operates. I am chasing a skimming issue on right rear brake. Ive had the calipers off and reset pistons a couple of times. I was just wondering if the mechanism that the handbrake cable connects to on the rear of the caliper needs to be 'set' a particular way I.e. wound right in or right out when resting the caliper piston and pumping the brakes back up? The manual says there should be a 5mm gap between the lever arm and the caliper housing but as soon as I connect the return spring it pulls the arm back against the stopper on the housing. Was wondering if this was akin to pulling the handbrake on and causing skimming.

if you can show a pic of what the book says, if its' got a picture?

if your cable is too tight, the adjustment is under the car near the gearbox you loosen the nuts on the curved cable hook there. 

21 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Ahh so without that the screen will be dim? Seems a bit odd but I guess Ill find out. Also I suppose those are called trip meters cus I cant think of anything better to call them.

trip computer i think.

that's what i was told, the odo will be dimly lit without it. not sure why
there's some hack for it apparently, but i haven't seen it here. 

2 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

I thought both clusters had the trip meter?

When it gets here Ill tear the old one apart and see if i can just switch the ic that runs the odometer

 not trip meter, (surprised i wrote that) 

the fancy extra guage the fairmonts have that show distance to empty etc, trip computer?

12 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

I recently found an EL falcon 'sports' cluster with the oil and volt gauge for cheap and would like to replace the cluster on my XH as the screen has bleached and the last 4 digits are unreadable. Is this a direct swap, will I need extra sensors for the motor and can I change the odometer reading on the new cluster? Any help would be much appreciated!

mate of mine said it's plug and play if you add the oil sender off the engine 

but.. without the trip meter, the odo will be dim (not able to change odo reading, professional instrument tech might be able to ) 
fixing the dim odo needs a resistor added somewhere apparently. 

be worth doing probably regardless. 

3 hours ago, waderobertson said:

Can someone tell me (really simply!) How to adjust/ tension the handbrake at the rear caliper on an XF?

My Ellery manual isn't always the clearest, or perhaps I'm just stupid, but I can't seem to get my lever arms to sit the recommended 5mm from the caliper housing. 

I replaced brake pads and in-between winding the piston back in, seating the pads, pumping the pedal & bleeding brakes I seemed to have ballsed something up.

Not sure what order I need to do things to get the adjustment right  

i've never seen an adjustment possible?

if the handbrake lever isn't seized, it will return to the top with spring pulling it back. that's it.

if it's stiff or stuck, you need to pull the caliper apart and clean/grease the handbrake internals. 

3 hours ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

This weirdo asking for pics..........

Let me know of any particular angle or view and I shall get them for you (won't be until the weekend though)

take a pic of these wires, could help.

1,starter to battery wire. +

2.battery - wire to engine block

3.passenger side bell housing to firewall has an earth that is used for the rest of the car normally. 

4. starter trigger wire, does it go to a relay? if so the wires/earth for the relay. 

those are points of interest i'd expect for sparkydave also. 

i spotted this on a facebook page 

3 speed manual with power steering 

thought it belongs here.

4 minutes ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

Noice, so if you listen to the video's again you will also see/hear the starter start and then cut out and it all goes quite, no spinning or grinding. While I have an ECU all the original wiring is cranking the car and the ECU has no control on the starter or distributing power. Any thoughts on that one? Back connection in steering column? Dying inhibitor switch?

My plan for this weekend I think is follows

• Pull starter and take off transmission cover plate and inspect flexplate for play.
• Run clean new wiring with an external switch and relay and test starter on a separate circut.
• Test inhibitor switch.

cutting out while cranking could be a voltage drop issue. bad wires or loose connections. if you don't have to change anything for it to crank again then i'd go with that. but if you are wiggling the gear stick or key to make it crank again then i'd look there also. 

@SPArKy_Dave think of something else. but nothing is jumping out at me really. 

2 hours ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

 

Will pull the starter out on the weekend and check for play, yeah it sounds even worse in person. I've been dealing with it, but now it's just embarrsing when people are watching your car and your taking 10 minutes to start

 

 

 

Yep, I think I got two spots where they are munted and when the mechanic had a looked he said overall the teeth had all been worn bad. So will check for play to start but will probably pull the engine out to replace flexplate, I have to change the rear main seal also

I have 12 degrees I think set on timing. Balancer is brand new, as the old one tore the outer ring from the inner hub on the dyno (Great fun)

Will need to make another post to show how it was done, but I'm one of those idiots who would die for the crossy and spent a bunch of money converting it to EFI and running a Haltech ECU with all the bells and whistles so I've been testing this with injectors off and on and problem is the same.

I have thought maybe the starter is damaged and then getting heat soaked sitting there and making the problem worse.
 

the old FAT starter motors did have this issue called "poleing out" (pole) that i never understood what that meant(possibly a short in the armature) 
and that makes them weak and often was a result from being cooked by extractors.
the smaller E series/AU etc starter is a direct fit and cheap, but they also die from heat. (heat shield is advised for thrashing regularly etc though ,i built one once)

if it cranks slow, i'd say it's either starter or the wire going to it or the earth wire to the block need upgrading. 
 

the grinding noise, definitely teeth on the flywheel related one way or another. 

6 minutes ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

 

The link should be fixed now, my good man.

Yeah understood.  My flexplate holds on with four bolts onto the torque converter.

I also thought it was flexplate, which in some instances it does sound like it.

But it grinds in any position or cuts out and dies but hopefully, the videos show that it's not just jumping, it's just going nuts.

next time the starter motor is out (5minute job really)

see if its' loose. i have heard of flex plate bolts coming loose from the crank, and i also have had one instance where the rivets holding the ring gear on were loose. (most are welded but some were riveted as below) 

also My Dad's leyland V8 had cracked a flexplate once which may put it out of alignment.

it's hard to say really. 

i downloaded your video, sounds terrible for sure 

1 hour ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

Apologies forgot to add.

 

Even if it does start to crank properly, it's so damn loud and sounds like it's grinding itself to death.

 

I've also changed the starter relay, new 30 AMP wiring for earth and power to switch connector on starter, new battery and battery is at 13.4V

 

Google drive to videos below (because they are massive for some reason) First video is in PARK second is in NEUTRAL

 

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1KICR7HD7o51hgR22cT9haI4Ro9dvL-TT?usp=drive_link

 

 

your video isn't public, 

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Request access, or switch to an account with access.

sounds to me by description that the ring gear is fubar though, and changing flexplate would fix it. 

starters are same for BW and C4 as far as i am concerned, i've swapped a few in the past. 

tooth count i doubt would be different but it's likely not going to be the same flexplate for both seeing the bw 35 holds on to torque converter with 3 bolts from memory rather than 4 nuts 

17 hours ago, Adrian853 said:

Scrap that. Mechanic has just managed to get it in. Yayyy!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sorry i missed this, yes, just tap up or down the steering shaft(collapsible) to suit the height change and it bolts straight in. XA to XG (XG pipes different but ultimately the same)

pitman arm is different for power steering box also. 

9 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

Here is another one,xg kick panel seat belt hole is further up than xf,behind it says hole for 92 and hole for 94,so I had to drill out the 92 and put a blank behind the 94 one ?

 

i showed a mate of mine this, and he responded with Basically if the XG has XF roof lining and interior light seatbelt same as XF,
or if it has XH roof lining and E series interior light, will have different seatbelt location

10 hours ago, Stumps said:

https://www.rodshop.com.au/sway-bar-for-ford-xa-xb-xc-xd-xe-or-xf-with-a-barr any thoughts on this on, looks like it would fit the bill, 26mm bigger than the factory one

 

i still don't know why they don't list it for XG,(be sure to ask them) 

I know the Tuff Mounts one fits XG because a mate has one, and it's standard height (there's mention of it hitting the radiator support on full droop, aka on a hoist if standard springs are used) 

30 minutes ago, Stumps said:

As the title says, looking for any recommendations for fatter sway bars to suit XG Utes, I'm assuming the XF front bar is different due to the sump difference between the sohc and xflow motors.

 

What do you guys recommend?

i was fairly sure the XG bar is the same bend/shape as the XD(probably XA) to XF utes, you need a custom sway bar for the barra or AU engine which TUFF MOUNTS makes only one size. 

you'd need to confirm this before buying, as i don't remember well enough to confirm it 100% 

@Thom may be the one to clarify. 

2 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:

Just wondering could too thick oil make an engine run bad? I changed my oil and I put 20w60 in it and its running shitty.

 

I can't imagine a crossflow caring much,  i used to put HPR diesel 20/60 in my cars because a mate who worked at autobarn at the time got them for me below cost due to damage/leaky containers.. didn't see any change other than it shut one of the noisy lifter engines up 

it's not ideal for the dizzy gear apparently, puts more strain on the oil pump. 

4 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

I might be able to get a rotted out xg pano for free so I might see if I can swap the whole system. Would the cat section fit too. Mine has a broken stud so I would like to swap the whole lot

the exhaust manifold doesn't fit

i don't think the cat pipe would fit either. 

1 hour ago, XF EDDIE said:

Just wondering, does an xg panel van exhaust just bolt straight up?

it's a bigger diameter pipe, so it may need mods where it bolts to the cat/engine pipe. 

i've seen one fitted before, but from memory it wasn''t a direct fit. maybe just due to that, or maybe the exhaust hangers were in different positions.
if it's cheap, it wouldn't cost much to adapt it if the exhaust shop is fair. 

one on the left might be F100? 
@SPArKy_Dave might have a clue? 

although we'd both have a better idea from the seat trim (you sit on)

17 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

think it's out of an xg rather than an xf because instead of those long bolts it 

The late xf utes from 1988 to xg also had that EA to ED/XG seat mount. 

Can you swap the rails? I can't remember if so

1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Yes it should, but double check.

 

All e-series used composite type head gaskets,

however minor changes occurred with the EF onwards gaskets, in an attempt to increase reliability.

 

AU MLS type gaskets were much more reliable,

however to my knowledge, they need a different finish on the head and block surface to seal correctly.

@deankxf?

 

My brother didn't do anything but check for straightness, replace one valve and clean the sufaces with a wire brush and send it.. 100,000 ish kms no issue on the gasket, but the car was basically worn out, so was given to a mate to run into the ground. 

19 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Will a head gasket for an el fit it? If so I might just pull the head off

i assume it's the same, brother used an AU one from memory on his EB 3.9 engine. 

44 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:

Well the EA is dead on arrival. I was gonna drop the tank and put a pump in it but I decided to try and start it first. Turns out it's seized! I pulled the plugs and they were all rusty on the tip (they had that 'wet' rust like there had been moisture in there). I've sprayed inox in there but I'm not hopeful, I might try pulling the head off to see if I can give it a ghetto rebuild but with it being an ea with 365,000kms it's not a priority. Anything cool I can jam into an ea or would I just be better of listing it on marketplace?

I'd probably play with unsiezing it, is it siezed from a leaky headgasket or from sitting? just sitting, you could remove the rocker gear, give all the valves a tap to check if any are stuck(might be able to check by pushing on them with the rocker gear on even)

has to be rings otherwise, use the mix of 50/50 trans fluid and acetone to soak them through the spark plug holes for a few days. 

EA EB ED XG engine will have the same belt/hose sizes and should be cheap enough in a motor swap. EF EL XH fit fairly easy but need thermo fan and thier radiator to My understanding. (using existing manifolds/dizzy etc) check Thom's thread below. 

is it Multipoint injected? 

if so the Budget wrecker special build of Egas AU bottom end with EF XR6 head combo of Thoms would be a fun project if you don't mind mucking around. 

EAs are RARE now, i reckon they'd be pretty cool to do up as a sleeper. 

basically anything from an EB/ED would fit to My understanding? XR6 diff, recaro seats etc 

like My usual saying though,  do you want to own one when it's finished (aka use up time/money/energy on something for someone else? ) 

23 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

Fingers crossed!

In my experience, early e-series = head gaskets, 4speed auto issues, and rusty rear wheel arches. @deankxf?

 

Yeah, and that $1.5k, was in USD too!

the EA i bought for $100 had half a tank of petrol and $46 in coins under the back seat..  (3 speed auto CFI model) i used some parts to fix My brothers EB and sold the wreck for $50 to a wrecker who had a sale for the auto for $150 the same day. (no rust, few weeks rego, reliable but needed every suspension part and brakes done like a year earlier at least.. )

got a better pic of it somewhere 
Nissan B11 panel van, can't remember if that was my good ute or the one i bought for $236, Brothers EB, $100 EA and the $3000 VG coupe (had trouble selling it for $3500)