deankxf

8 hours ago, iamaelephant said:

Silly question, if I remove the power steering box does the PS system need to be bled? Pretty sure the answer is no, but steering is quite important so I'd like to get it right.

it will self bleed, but you only need to crank the engine for a second or so and the pump will need topping up again, so do that a few times so the pump doesn't run dry (they can get noisy if running with no fluid for longer than 10 seconds even)

good question 

the silly question is one that isn't asked (that's what our trade school teacher taught us anyway)

17 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

My steering coupling is stuffed

that's possibly stuffed because the steering column is further back than it should be. (needs tapping down/levering down so the rag joint is not distorted)

i can't remember on the power steering ones, i think they bolt in from the centre of the shaft @SPArKy_Dave to the rescue again. 

probably is doable in the car if so. but i'm not sure if there's any traps to look out for (aka should it be in the straight ahead position or full lock when doing the nut up etc)

Coil is a common thing to shut down when hot. 

that would be the first thing i'd swap.

if the coil is HOT when it conks out, that would be enough for Me to swap it.

if it's cool, then maybe look elsewhere, 

does it fire up again soon after or need to wait for something to possibly cool down?

i saw this pop up on My youtube, and he looks like he does most of the work with only one arm even.

My rule, if it's not broken, don't fix it
keep it stock (why would you fit a FG engine? just fit another BA engine or buy an FG car when the BA is stuffed?)
 

1 hour ago, Crebe said:

So, I will have 1 x 1966 custom XR ute leather upolstery, Ford Viper paint, 18 x 8.5 wheels ali hard lid, xr8 5lt and 4 sp auto, air, custom frenched gauges, momo wheel bla blah blah. Price to be advised...watch this soace... or not!

Also thanks for the help and info.

good luck with the sale, 

I've given up on several cars that did My head in over the years. right thing to do at the time, and i rarely remember them unless i see one for sale 10times the price i sold it for.

3 hours ago, Nugget Racer said:

Does anyone know if an EB Auto ECU will run a 5 speed manual as well??. I know the loom is different but unsure on ECU...???

Cheers

They will work but not be working properly as far as I  know. 

( my brother had an eb series 1 with auto ecu due to the 5 speed conversion was from an EA centrepoint injection car so he couldn't use that ecu)

I think the main issue is it will idle at higer revs

2 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

hello, 

 

Final update on this thread,  I picked the car up yesterday, all is good and runs like a dream.

the mechanic checked all systems, fuel , ignition etc and pulled the re-built carb apart again and went though that, put it back together and it runs perfectly, all that he assumes is somewhere along the way when he did the work earlier in the year, he stuffed something up and it led to the issues listed above, so he put his hand up at least and didn't charge a thing, even topped up the aircon at the same time. 

So while it has'nt answered why the car played up , why it had petrol in the oil etc, it has for now been fixed and will get a good run tomorrow.

 

in saying that, cheers for all the pointers, I know what to check out next time in case it gets grumpy again, for now, i'll drive it

did he change the fuel pump?

if not, that's the only way fuel can get in the oil as far as i know . 

check your oil level OFTEN if the fuel pump wasn't changed. 

40 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

i looked on the other rear door and that rod goes to that white plastic turning thing,but something aint right ,in that plastic thing the handle rod is meant to be on notch 2 and that one in the pictures goes on notch 1,so ?

copy the side that works i guess

30 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

Next is this can someone explain,the door rod is about 5 cm or more ,you can't line the handle up with it,or is this rod for something else and I'm missing the correct rod 

i've moved the pivot point for the inner handle i think on rear doors twice (to take up slack)

have the rods been fitted wrong? is it meant to have a kink in it?

5cm is miles out, haven't got the left handle in the right door etc?

27 minutes ago, Nato of Falcons said:

I believe this is it

 

what tyres and suspension is it running?

i liked zero deg camber,  and 2mm toe in  can't remember the castor 

@SPArKy_Dave probably has the same ideals if he remembers

6 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

The crossflow in my XFN (Nissan) ute, had 6thou clearance on the mains... lol!

Still ran quite reasonably, too.

crossflows will run with sand in the oil, but it's not ideal on a rebuild spec

1 hour ago, Panko said:

IT RUNS! 

Thats right, it fired up first go, but did have trouble getting fuel to it to keep it running. *see video below* 

The video below is as I cranked it the first time. 

Woo! 

radiator leak accessible? might be an easy repair for a radiator shop. 

got to love it when it starts easy and runs smooth 

55 minutes ago, Rayinsydney said:

Quick update, the car has been sat outside for a couple of weeks now as my mechanic hasn't had a chance to come look,  just for fun yesterday i tried to start it, and it started!

 

Ran really roughly, the motor was rocking all over the place and blue smoke was pouring out the tail pipe, i shut it off, checked the oil level and it was way over full, and smelling of petrol , so I drained it, and the oil was just so full of petrol it almost had the viscosity of petrol itself.

I put new oil in and a new filter, the car then started and ran just as it always has, took it for a run and all went well, so somethings amiss, but at least it can drive now so i can get it to the mechanic.

Will let you know what happens , eventually

this to Me points to fuel pump leaking fuel into the oil (fairly common back in the day) 
 

could try change the fuel pump next. 

if the petrol is getting in the oil, it can evaporate and go into the carby (too rich) as vapour and make the engine run rough (with air cleaner lid fitted) 

(if it runs better with the lid removed, this could be a good diagnoses of fuel in oil causing the running rough, other than fouled plugs )

remove plugs, wire brush and refit, run with the air cleaner lid removed.. if it runs good, change the fuel pump ASAP 

some small amount of fuel in the oil(from today's run) will clear up on it's on, but if there's lots, you would be advised to change the oil again to minimise risk of bearing damage from compromised oil. 

1 hour ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

After 4 months I finally worked out how to take these coat hanger things off,the buggers are like double skinned,just stick a small screwdriver behind it and gently prize it off then unscrew the holder,these must come off for the new roof lining

rear grab handles? i could have told you that (i remember removing them on something

1 hour ago, Panko said:

so for now I am going to say that if I can drive it out my shed under its own steam, for its first test drive by Christmas, it will be the best Christmas present ever.

Great to see an update! definitely good progress and a good plan. 

that cable end kit looks a great idea

1 minute ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Lol, he has so many cars now... almost as bad as me.

I can't work out, how he fits them all in.

in the current episode, i skipped through it a bit, he was talking about buying a property somewhere that he can store and rotate his cars through. (sounds like he plans do drive them all)

On 8/31/2023 at 8:40 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

2nd is these weird brackets I have only ever seen these on very early xe and possibly late xd.

peter Anderson (youtube) latest video has bought a ZK fairlane and it has this cupcake tray also

5 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

.interesting note i bought a set of xe head post cushions from a guy up the road then went to fit em and they dont fit

OOOHH

I had this issue once also then. 

i didn't pick it, i didn't have many cars that had this style seat, and once i got over the fact they weren't a "head rest" and the Girl Friend at the time fit her pony tail knot in the opening, it was the best thing ever invented apparently. 

if they marketed it as a pony tail void, they'd sold double the amount lol

baking tray for cupcakes?

3 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

so,  its still no go, so my mechanic is going to come up one night and have a look ( he's done  a heap of work on this car so knows it well ) , its a mystery but I'll let you all know the results.

 

Fingers crossed, and thanks for your suggestions.

We are always interested in what the solution was, it can help the next person. 

even more so if you can remember his diagnosis procedure. 

eg, 
has good battery, engine cranks fast enough, checked for strong spark at plugs, how he'd check for flooded or no fuel. and so on. 

once you know, it applies to lots of things. why the whipper snipper won't start after 6 months with stale fuel in the shed (drain the fuel, put fresh fuel and run it mid/off season, same for anything 2 stroke particularly )

54 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

and the correct timing.

 

Although less likely, I would consider the ignition module, and/or distributor pickup coil.

(assuming factory XE distributor)

it was running, then wasn't so i can't see the timing being out(unless messed with)

if it has spark, it should just work 

21 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

Its got spark to the cylinders

1 hour ago, Rayinsydney said:

I put a small amount of petrol into the carb and it wouldn't fire, just cranks, I may just get a mobile mech up to help diagnose it

if it has spark, it really should fire unless it's fouled plugs or flooded (too much fuel)
before you call a mobile mechanic(guessing $200 min charge? min)
you could remove the spark plugs and take a look, if they are wet (flooded) leave them removed for a few hours if possible, fuel will evaporate

or black/rust, try wire brushing them, and refitting (wire brush them if wet from too much fuel also)

if you've been cranking it and cranking it, it's likely flooded, especially if pumping the accelerator pedal

4 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

its Carb, there's fuel in the filter, I'll pull off the fuel hose into the carb and see if its pumping through i guess.

if it fires with a spray of something in the carby top(even WD would do it etc) then it's fuel supply issue. 

can be many causes, check the fuel hoses don't have cracks in them, sucking air instead of fuel is something i've seen a few times on XD to XFs and that was 15yrs ago. 

10 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

Global West, does alot of aftermarket suspension components, to suit early Mustang front suspension (and thus our x-series also)

BGDAV has these in his XE, the lower control arm bush hole is too small for XE XF (had it drilled out to whatever size they are meant to be ,14mm rings a bell?)

they are very very strong and heavy units, and pretty well priced it seemed at the time (factoring in putting new quality ball joints and bushes in factory arms)

7 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

I'd suggest to buy a new battery.

That's the easiest.

it's still going to have the clicky click issue with a new battery most likely, arcing/tarnish on the solenoid contacts internally