deankxf

1 hour ago, fotz said:

Hi All, just an update, I will share some picks soon, but things are coming together. I have mounted the motor in the engine bay. AU extractors, definately dont fit, need some serious modification. I have ordered Pacemaker PH 4032 extractors, ill let you know how these go.

 

On another note, I am just about to put the T5 from an e-series into my XF. I have just noticed a couple different things between the XF T5 and also the E series T5.

 

1) The mounting holes underneath the gearbox are not in the same alignment. E-series is more narrower.

2) the bolt threads on the e-series is much thinner than what was in the XF

 

I have found a rod shop mount, that has adjustable holes, so going to go after that one https://www.rodshop.com.au/gearbox-mounts-gbmount06-choice-of-rubber-or-heavy

 

I also noticed that in the XF I have an extra bracket that was used to mount the exchaust. See pictures below. I assume that I can just throw this away as this will only work with a 6cyl and dont think it would have even worked with extractors either.

 

Is there an equivalent one for the v8, or would you just mount the exchaust differently.

 

Thanks

 

Foti

See that hole in between the xf cross member holes, you can use the e series gearbox mount with this hole fine in XF.

I think they are stronger than the 2 bolt one.

Exhaust bracket was a very strong pain in the arms trying to work around , most went in the bin. 

Probably very good at stopping the Exhaust manifold from cracking but not used with extractors 

39 minutes ago, bear351c said:

Do it up a little, undo, do it up, undo slightly more this time, do it up, undo it more again.......

this works often, especially if you can get access to clean the threads up with a wire brush then lube it

but sometimes with these bolts is you can jam something in to stop is spinning and then TIGHTEN the bolt until it breaks the bolt.. then you have access with the guard removed to cut the rusted stuff out with a grinder. 

i have centerpunched and drilled the bolt head off also, it's tough going, but can be done if needed. (one accessed by opening the door and above the top hinge caused me this pain once)

1 hour ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Guys, I feel dumb as a post right now so im sorry if this is the dumbest question you get on here. 

 

Moto means to motor and Rad means to Radiator... So the thermostat goes this way yeah?

 

Please and thank you as always. This one has really got me sweating.

 

that motorad looks like just a brand name?
that part goes into the head where the hot water touches the spring part to let it open. 

so opposite to how you are holding it in the first pic

like below (only pic i could find on google)

45 minutes ago, fotz said:

Would be great to understand what this relay is...

 

Thanks

 

I'm leaning towards neither of them being factory. 

2 hours ago, fotz said:

I didnt expect the Carby XF model to have an ECU in it.

unleaded XF has an EST computer and map sensor, likely just something to minorly improve emissions at the time. they were often replaced with the leaded dizzy from XE or XF (special LEADED rotor button needed if keeping the XF cap/leads, otherwise use XE rotor and cap/leads)

if you use an XE dizzy in the later XF, remove the ECU from the kick panel, one of My XFs had ignition breakdown with it still fitted (faulty) and when removed the problem was gone. 

3 hours ago, fotz said:

I think I have wored this out, but please confirm

 

1 of them is definately a starter relay, the other was connected up through the carby manifold, so I suspect it is an engine relay of some sort.

 

If someone can confirm please, that would be great

got a photo of them?

the EFI had 2 relays there, one was an ECU relay, the other a fuel pump relay. 

i didn't think there was a factory starter relay? @SPArKy_Dave may confirm.  but many of my cars had starter relays fitted over the years. 

i don't see why you'd have another relay for a carby manifold, unless it's some anti theft thing been added?

16 minutes ago, RM351 said:

Anyone?

@Thom may have an idea?

26 minutes ago, Panko said:

From place its a bit over an hour, and a good bit of sitting on highway with 110km/h speed limit. 

how'd it go up the big hill just past Calder Park Raceway, back to 4th gear and held the speed with the 1600? 

1 hour ago, Fknclevo said:

seen cams like crow cam 14806 is this way to big for standard comp?

https://crowcams.com.au/product/ford-crossflow-solid-1

1 hour ago, Fknclevo said:

5kish at a crossflow can stretch the budge

I don't think $5k will go far these days. if you need to upgrade the diff, exhaust, trans, converter also. you'll be way off. 

I don't have the answers, but with a cam that big will surely need MUCH more compression to compensate . (you could ask Crow, they did reply to My questions on a different cam once)

Also, what diff ratio are you going to use? i had a crossflow 30yrs ago that was 2500-5500 rpm range with 2.92 diff ratio and auto and stock converter and it was like starting off in second gear until it got to about 40kmh then came to life. a 2500 high stall or manual would have helped a lot. 

can you even get a 3500 high stall for what trans you are using if Auto? (likely going to cost a LOT also)

"FITTING NOTES"
 

Must use performance springs.

Must use performance retainers.

Machining required to fit these components.

Must use performance seal.

Converter stall speed should be equal to or greater than the minimum RPM of the cam power range

The xf with column shift had rounded column covers like xe from memory. But that column isn't the height adjustable one so there may be enough differences to not fit without modifying that at least. 

53 minutes ago, Crebe said:

I have replaced the new master with another new master a protex and immedatly find out they are shit....or so i am told. I procrastinated and rang and visited brake "experts" and they were of no help. Said "they only can buy the chinese ones as thats all they make now" and asked them to look in stocks for an origonal PBR to recondition. After repeated requests to go and look they said we wouldnt have one! rang a guy that said he has never had any trouble with the masters he sells and i bought it. That item is the Protex. I have fixed the fluid problem out of it and the only thing I am suspicous of is that air may have been in tbe rears somewhere. I am not happy with the performance of these xf brakes on my xr and have had the calipers reconditioned . Have Bendix pads to replace the hardly worn Bendix pads new rotors and every thing on the rear drums. I blead the livin shit out of the lines, vacome this time. Have called Vari brakes and Talked with Ceasar and am looking at six pot brakes on 290 discs so i can change back to 15s from 18s for rego etc. He has to get back to me re any changes in track etc. I dont realy want 6 spot as its way more than I need. 4 pot would be better or even two pot.

DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. 

XF brakes should be fine,  when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. 
My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple.

and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show.  i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration.  otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. 

do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. 
those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know,  so it's something you can try before going further.
 

 

A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 

20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)
 

bumping this for new members @Crebe (quality of protex brake master cyl) 

11 minutes ago, Crebe said:

Can anyone tell me if they hace pit a 4 spd auto in an xr 1966. I have one in my ute and think it maybe at the wrong agle for the box to tailshaft. Its possible someone couldnt get it up into the tunnel enough. Do xr xt xw xy have different tunnel sizes as in bigger than xr?

@Thom may know? did  the manual XR have a smaller tunnel than the auto ones? 
this is the case with some earlier stuff from memory. 

51 minutes ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Hey everyone!

 

Good news, im healthy again and workiing on cars.

 

In the time ive been away I have had my XF falcon' dash crack... Sad days.

 

Is  there anything I can do to fix this? I thought Id start here because you guys have been so helpful along the resto of this one. (ignore the filth its been like 6 months)

 

Thanks for that and I hope you are all doing really well hey.

 

you can glue a dash mat on it.. fixed. 

the state of the other trim is pretty rough, sure it's not worth finding another interior or do you have good trim for it?

you can get them redone at huge expense ($800 rings a bell)

i've seen (and i'm likely to do similar on My gemini one) slicing out the high part of the crack so it's a bit lower than the top, mixing up some fibreglass resin and laying it in the crack , then bogging over, sanding and painting the whole thing . 

depends on your budget and if you care if it' cracks again(i think it's so brittle now it's likely to crack again anyway unless fully recovered)

7 hours ago, fotz said:

already have the ef radiator so let me have a muck around with it on the weekend and check where it’s getting caught and check the approach you followed.

i don't have any pics handy, but we fitted an EF radiator and fans to an XG of My mates' last year, this was done by using approximately 50mm square tube to space up the bottom, mounting XF lower mounts to that (for the radiator to sit on, 2 wide rubber pads unlike the XF radiator uses 2 different size end tanks)

and the top mounts as i modded on My XE. 

this was due to fitting an EF EL engine to it (easier to find than another EA EB ED XG engine these days)

1 hour ago, fotz said:

would have thought that the XG would fit nicely -

this is a quote from Ant's wagon thread with LS2 or LS3? engine 
 

Just thinking about this.

The car now has a ve radiator and fans and when it was tuned I asked Phonsey to drop the temp at which the ecu turns the fans on as it always ran a bit hot with the falcon fans and radiator.

It cools itself brilliantly now.

The temp guage gets to 3/4, the fans kick in and within 20 seconds they pull the temp back to 1/4 so it's never really hot.

posts mentioning radiator in his thread are here (changed from modified use XD radiator when changing the intake setup to an over the radiator "OTR" setup. 
 http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/search/&q=radiator&type=forums_topic&item=37

39 minutes ago, fotz said:

Thanks @deankxf I already have an EF radiator - with air con - it won’t fit. Those radiators are too wide (approx. 70mm wider than XG) need something narrower. The top

and bottom holes is the same for e series / au Windsor from what I can see.

 

I would have thought that the XG would fit nicely - given it has a the same front end as an XF. The positioning of the hoses with a narrower radiator and the hose sizes was the only thing I was worried about. From what I can see from pictures the XG has different size top and bottom, where Windsor looks the same top and bottom, I assumed I could get some hoses to manage this. 
 

Your photo is questioning me on this but, when I try slot it in the radiator is hitting against the air con canister and pipes.

My XE had the XE Air con condensor installed with that radiator, i would expect an XF one to be in the same spot(identical radiator hole to XE)

XG uses a completely different bottom radiator mount setup, i also questioned people regarding this when i did the conversion. (i got an XG radiator to try prove them wrong, and an AU one .. didn't fit.) 
the EF one will fit if you cut a slot for the side pipe(fill hose)

XG and EA EB ED have bigger size lower radiator hose outlets .. the EA EB ED are the same size as EF EL otherwise, XG narrower but possibly deeper, maybe the lower hose hit the cross member the caster rods mount to? i can't remember. 
XG is different by far to XD XE XF though in the lower radiator mount area. 

i think Ants used a commodore radiator and fan ? in his XD wagon with LS2 engine. 
i'll see if i can find the post, it was a neat fit 

11 hours ago, fotz said:

On another note - has anyone fitted an XG radiator with EF/EL Thermo fans onto a Windsor EFI motor?

I’m planning to get the xg bottom and top mounts and thinking this will bolt straight in. EF radiator fans will need to modified to fit onto the radiator slightly. Hoses should also pretty much line up (I think)

 

Just wanted to see if this has been done before or should I just use an XD-XF radiator and modify the thermo fans to that?

The EA to EL(XH same) radiator is a better fit than XG. The ef el.have same size outlet top and bottom. 

Not sure what size the Windsor has. 

I have a pic of my xe with el radiator and Thermos with 1uz engine but not sure if you will even have space. I'll see if I can find it if we get power back on after the storms..still no power here eastern suburbs melb

from memory you can set the bottom mounts to fit the radiator (like an XF) and the top i cut the EF mounting tabs off and modified the top XF mounts with a bracket (cut the mounting part off the hook part and sat the radidiator in and made a plate for between and welded. ) 
i can't remember why you can't use the top mounts, but i have seen them used with mods to the car. 
you need to cut a piece out of the side support near headlight mounts for the header tank /fill port neck to clear. 

2 hours ago, Panko said:

the number of people who came to me and wanted to talk to me about the car, because they had heard its story, and what it had been through, was a little overwhelming. 

Absolutely amazing results and credit to you for turning around another write off decision by insurers. 

Been a pleasure following the restoration here and hearing the ups and downs of the process. 

So glad it's transformed by the tasteful modifications into a better road car too!

1 hour ago, Fknclevo said:

planning to build 250 crossflow to around 400rwhp but curious as the what anyone else has ran to do it

bottom end : seen kits online with 200 rods and ross pistons is this a good kit? cant seem to really find any cranks are the standard ones good are people swapping them out for something else (e series cranks or something) 

are there any oiling issues and shit i should worry about?

top end : planning on ports heads etc etc but what valve train parts is everyone running 

what kind of carb is everyone using (want to keep it carby)

found exhaust manifolds and everything online 

what kinda of turbos is everyone using 

seen an ice control system for turbo crossflow is this any good?

yes i understand barras and intechs are a better power route no i dont want to be told to just engine swap it, cheers for your help 

depends on what your budget is, you should read Slydog's thread entirely. 

he's not been on and posting for a long while, but you'll get a fair idea of what's doable and what's needed (it blew up earlier in the thread, so make sure to keep reading to see what failed and why *I can't remember)

pretty sure he's kept the stock rod length, and it's using an EF crank, (more counterweights for better balance)

later in the thread it's now boosted

57 minutes ago, fotz said:

I’ve been looking at the wiring and just checking everything off. Something I haven’t really figured out yet is the alternator. It’s a 3 pin alternator on the motor, does anyone have any advice on how to hook this up in the XF. I have the 3 pin connector it only has 2 wires on it.

 

Currently the XF has 

B+
D+
+
D-

 

The alternator on the Windsor has absolutely no markings. I assume the main connection will go directly to the battery, the 2 wires on the 3 pin connector I am assuming one is the alternator warning lamp the other needs to loop back onto the positive connection on the alternator. Have searched and can’t really find anything on these alternators. Anyone done this before able to explain how they managed this?

 

Thanks 

@SPArKy_Dave may speak that language? 

i vaguely remember one terminal needs power put to it to excite some part of it.. not enough memory to advise anything

2 hours ago, Sacko7 said:

I am about to change it to a 2.92 but I have been told that the V8 actually had a 2.77.

in My experience most borg warner diff V8s were 2.92 (9" had 2.75) 

there's only 5% difference to them. 

2.92 at 100kmh would be about  2400rpm

2.77 at 100 would be 2300 ish

3.45 XR6 diff you have should be 2850rpm 

3.23 XR8 diff would be about 2650/2700rpm 

if you have a ready to fit 2.92 diff, just chuck it in,

2.77 isn't enough difference to be worried about even on a 6cyl 99% of the time. 

2 hours ago, Banno said:

Thought you get bored of the 2.53 with Eshays in Kia Rio’s beating you at the lights!


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kia rio would probably chop a stock XE no matter what the diff ratio. i reckon the 2018 i30 we have would chop a stock 351 ESP even down the 1/4

16 minutes ago, SPACK said:

The 2.77 is NOT lame..however i am having to go through the gears to fast , the ratio is too low, I have an AU /several actually, with around the same HP, and the ratios being 3.23/3.45 are better suited to the HP..I want the XF to run out longer as the engine runs out near 5400 RPM, I want the diff to run out longer..

what do you mean run out longer?

2.77 with an auto will do say 90kmh ish in 1st gear at 5400rpm

3.23 by comparison might be around 70kmh.  (but will take off faster) 

7 hours ago, Adrian853 said:

Interestingly, the Global West springs seem to be a lot stiffer than the Pedders

In My experience, Pedders were the softest of all the aftermarket springs, when i asked/mentioned this to Pedders, they said we recommend a sway bar upgrade also (they sell a package type)

3 hours ago, iamaelephant said:

I lifted the car and the spring easily popped back into its saddle.

this makes me believe they are standard length shocks , 

big bore(handle the stronger springs) and short stroke (stop the shock bottoming out and also retain the spring better) would be the go. 

you'll be amazed at what new(good quality) shocks do to a falcon