deankxf

10 hours ago, RM351 said:

Well, I did solve the issue and it was a simple one.

I replaced all the globes with led ones except the dash lights and replaced the turn signal relay to suit the led's.

 

I know that some people have issues with the led brake/park globes either they have a single filament base or they need to be turned around to work properly.

I have the twin filament base one and though no issues in working, I found out it was the cause of the faulty earth of the problem. Once I replaced them with standard globes the issue was gone.

Wish I thought of it in the first place, would've saved me a lot of grief.

 

 

 

 

 

Bought four of these globes off eBay and tried all four of them and they still caused the same problem.

Maybe they don't work as a park/brake globe or maybe these ones are just shit. In the bin they went.

 

that's interesting, never seen that problem before  

the blinker LEDs often need a different "electronic" flasher can otherwise you get a fast flash rate

never thought about them in the front of an XB (parker/indicator) but can see the benefit being brighter (if they worked) 

there's probably someone like sparkydave who'd be able to explain why they didn't work, but the BIN is an easy answer to many questions lol. 

3 hours ago, RM351 said:

Hey Guys, scratching my head with this one, not sure where to start looking.

 

When I apply the brakes, my right front park light and dash lights come on. I've checked all the lights, reverse lights, wipers, heater fan all work normally with the brakes applied or not.

 

Any ideas where else to look?

 

 

first place to look is the body earths, on XD, XE XF etc there's the battery earth to the engine block and then another earth that goes from the engine to the car body.  if this is missing you'll have weak earths on everything. 

mate of mine has a weird issue now in an XG where if you turned the lights on the car would stall (engine cuts out for some reason) (the "fix" albeit temporary was to earth a wire in the headlight loom for some reason. doesn't make sense still but something's not right with it. ) 

i think on your car you may need to check your tail light earths, i assume there'll be one in behind the tail light housings.  but it's likely something simple like that. 

wow those seats are nice! 

is it worth finding someone to place that engine properly and make/modify mounts for it (setting pinion angle etc) and seeing if the extractors fit while doing so (modifying to suit if not)

Dad had vibration issues due to engine placement in his V8 transit conversion due to making it fit better in the space but not taking into account pinion angle, and seeing you aren't using stock mounts now you should probably consider it worth checking (engine/gearbox in relation to diff pinion angle) 

good to see another update  

5 hours ago, motoSycho said:

and swapping the diffs.

what part of the brake hoses are you planning on keeping?

the XH will be metric thread and the XF imperial on the brake line nuts . try to decide early and you can have the parts ready to go. 

there's an adapter available for the XF hard line to XG(i assume XH same?) flexi hose to T piece on the diff.  i haven't used that, i had the brake lines on the diff remade or modified to have XF nuts put back on the ends that go into the t piece. .if you had brake flaring skill you could change the nut on the hard line in the tunnel even but i've just taken a hand full of bits into a brake joint and said make this fit that..

1 hour ago, motoSycho said:

Thanks man, that's excellent news.

not sure if it's too late yet, but if you feel like doing a basic tutorial it may help others in the future? it's likely in the gregorys book though. 

1 hour ago, motoSycho said:

So, do XH door windows fit into an XF? Mine are a bit crap, but the XH parts vans are pretty decent looking.

yep, push out the centre part of the plastic bit holding it to the window lifting rail (i use a phillips screw driver and whack the end of the handle with palm of hand and then look for the center part behind the reinforcing bar of the door.. 1 in 10 go missing in my experience) 

then the outer part of that clip you push from the other side while holding the glass in the opening or it will just drop into the door hole and scratch on the way down. 

tilt the glass on a 45 degree down in the front and it will just come out. 
reversal for refit but you push the center of the clip in from the door trim side with the HANDLE of the screw driver and it will give a THUNK as it clips in. (assuming you got the outer clip in the right spot in the glass hole. 

good opportunity to slide the baily channel up into the door frame better also.

you'll need the window wound about half way down to access those clips. 

17 minutes ago, Nath said:

Hey guys,

 

Is the BTR from a V8 NF Fairlane the same as the one behind the 6 banger?

 

Got a spare one from a parts car and wondering if it's the same piece of junk that was behind my old Au xr6 ute (blew up 2 of them).

basically the same but won't fit the 6cyl is about all i know about them., (has a higher value due to being rare) 

On 11/19/2022 at 6:26 PM, Julian said:

I've tried to attach photos but having problems uploading

On 11/19/2022 at 6:26 PM, Julian said:

the hinge point and track on the right hand side has...... disappeared.

usually if that track as rusted away you''l have water leaking on the floor due to rust in the wiper plenum as sparkydave mentioned above. it could be just bent, you can probably stick a torch/camera in the wiper vent and see if it's there or not. 
 

link below to upload photos

10 minutes ago, XES 384 said:

Update- finally got the car up on a hoist and can confirm as you said, it’s a BW40.
Cheers for your advice


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don't forget to do the welsh plug behind the flywheel if the box is coming out, you'll thank me later. (if it's rusty, the ones under the exhaust manifold will be due also most likely)

58 minutes ago, XES 384 said:

 

Hi all, anyone know what diff ratio an 84 XE S Pack 4.1 EFI auto sedan would come with from the factory?

Cheers

 

 

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most likely 2.77 possibly 2.92

if the diff doesn't have it's tag on the back cover any more,  you can see the ratio on the crown wheel diff gear stamped in. (involves dealing with smelly oil etc)

18 minutes ago, BDuck said:

Thanks for the quick reply! I take it the upgrade path is not a straight swap like what's recommended in here?

most people who fit a bigger carby to the iron head (1979 XD) would get the XC/XD redline manifold and fit a 350 holley (could adapt it to a weber if preferred) 

if it was an XD 1981 with Alloy head, the XE/XF manifold fits, but it's a bit of a muck around to get working on an XD still, (throttle cable ball is different size, no choke output on the alternator, something else i can't remember)

if it was mine, i'd keep it stock and find a carby kit if required. they drink a bit of petrol but i'd suspect it's not a daily driver doing heaps of kms, the stromberg is pretty reliable. 

2 minutes ago, BDuck said:

Sorry if this is the wrong thread, but I can't seem to navigate the search function to find my answer, and Google is proving difficult.

This thread states that the 34adm is in the XE/XF. I have a 1979 XD 4.1 and would like to know what the factory fitted carby is.

 

Cheers

stomberg single barrel,. if it looks like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/143667442469

1 hour ago, XES 384 said:

 

Hi guys, just wondering if there are any modern bucket seats (ie BA-BF-FG, FPV or even any non Ford seats) that would bolt straight in, or at least easily be adapted to fit an 84 XE S-Pack?

Cheers

 

you can try this guide out, but it wasn't that easy for a mate of mine who's tall and needed (wanted) to get the seat lower and further back in the same process. 

don't throw the S pack seats out, there's been a lot of facebook posts looking for S pack seats lately, definitely one of the nicer parts of an S pack if you ask me. 

1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

These days, it's usually the outer door latch mechanism, that seizes up.

good point, i haven't had many with this issue but i did have one (partly mangled due to door misalignment from broken door hinge) 

i had a feeling i undid the hinges off the pillars to get more wiggle on the latch and striker. might be something to try next. 

27 minutes ago, Squiz said:

yeah tried that i was in the ute using my feet to push against the door while my uncle was trying to get it open but that didnt work either

you might need to do what's in one of the videos, line up the lock part (you'll see what the lock button does) then lift the pin with a screw driver. i've only had this happen once personally  and someone else had it so i made the video for them. i think the door mech was just full of dust mainly, i don't recall there being anything broken in it in this case.

that spring in the bottom of the door is usually from previous broken door handles if it's thicker spring metal. bigger also. you'll be able to see it on the handle easy enough. 

2 minutes ago, Squiz said:

thankyou, i coated it all in CRC before i left this morning ill be able to go back to it next weekednd and have another go with these videos as reference. hopefully i get the dam thing open atleast dont mind if i have to buy a new mechanism

it could be just stiff in the latch(door out of adjustment due to stuffed hinges/cracked door near hinge)  if so, give the door from the inside some decent push pull action while holding the handle open(don't force the handle, that's not the issue unless something else is broken, forcing the handle will break something 99% of the time)

Just now, Squiz said:

yes it all works nothing looks broken it just wont unlatch for some reason

 

just posted 2 videos, 
SPRAY it all with WD40 or CRC etc and keep trying if it's all connected still

try make sense of the videos, the lady i made them for figured it out from them. 

i made these videos for someone 11yrs ago with a similar issue, it's all i can do at the moment. (no more falcons)

so the inside handle doesn't work either?

if it's as above, and you find in the bottom of the door bits of this spring.. it's the issue

link to one here, i've never bought one or fitted it, only just bought a good used mechanism and swapped it.  https://www.custommustangs.com.au/ford-falcon-door-lock-mechanism-repair-spring-xd-x
this isn't the cheapest it's just the first one that popped up with google

FIRSTLY, try turn the key to UNLOCK and hold it in that position, if the handle works to open the door then it will confirm what i'm expecting

same could be done with the window down and holding the lock button up. 

if you lift the handle and notice the lock button dropping, then it's what i suspect above. 

there's a broken spring in the door actuator 

check that first and i'll see if i can google a pic for you. 

1 hour ago, XES 384 said:

Thanks mate, much appreciated Are there any other Trans options you would suggest I consider that are perhaps even simpler to swap or would the BW40 be about as simple as a it gets?


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are you sure it's got a BW35? it should have a BW40 in it from new. = direct swap from XF. other than the kickdown cable(if it was a carby, if the XF was EFI it would be same cable)

the BW51 from the XF EFI was supposed to be better, (when new) but these days everything's worn out unless otherwise rebuilt in My opinion. 

the ideal conversion for power/responsiveness/gearing/strength is the C4 that the XD ghia came with (6cyl) but i don't know how you'd go with the kickdown cable on EFI due to it wasn't an option on XD. that trans needs the XD ghia shifter also(or a V8 one from XA to XE with C4/C10 ) and speedo gear swap on the sender and trans lines and possibly flex plate(possibly same?)

getting rare and very expensive these days though. 

i'd say swapping out a BW35/40 for another BW40 would be simple  ALSO REMOVE THE FLEXPLATE(auto flywheel) and replace the WATER welsh plug in the back of the block while it's apart. (guess how i know about that one) the other one is for the cam and naturally inline with the cam,  and won't need changing(oil behind it, not water/coolant) 

rebuilding the original? i guess you could if you are confident, not something i'd tackle personally. (spend hours/days doing it to put it back and still not work would be My luck) 

29 minutes ago, XES 384 said:

 

Hi all,

Did a search but results a bit mixed so here goes-

What would be involved in swapping a BW40 out of an XF into an 84 XE EFI that currently has a BW35 in it? Straight swap or is there more involved?

Cheers

 

 

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the kickdown cable (TV cable ) you need to remove the sump and from memory it's pretty simple to unhook and swap to the other box.  (i did the opposite about 10yrs ago, swapped an EFI BW51 into a carby spec BW40  and just swapped the cable over. 

the BW35 can possibly have the trans cooler lines on the opposite side, that might be a pain in the ask, the T bar shifter adjustment might be slightly different also as i remember mucking around changing a BW35 into My XE ute that had a stuffed BW40

i've seen the BW35 with the cooler lines on either side, so you might be lucky, and i have no idea why the shifter rod needed mucking with as i'd still assume it is located exactly same spot as the others on the transmission case. 

quick visual should see the cooler lines on the correct side or not, and the cable was fairly simple with the sump off. 

(i vaguely remember the cortina BW35 having the lines on the wrong side when My brother fitted the XF engine and BW40 to his TE back 25yrs ago ish)

26 minutes ago, the miracle stick mechanic said:

Heat and dirty oil destroys autos I read somewhere .

makes you wonder why they don't have a proper filter in the cooling system at minimum. 

1 hour ago, the miracle stick mechanic said:

I fitted an transmission oil temp gauge. Both to use the sender as a drain plug and monitor overheating . About 1.5L is drained each time I change the engine oil as well .

why do you do the 1.5 litres at a time thing?