deankxf
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Everything posted by deankxf
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sounds great! pics will be very helpful, but i think i get what you plan to do
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if you can go see an XD XE XF etc one, it wouldn't surprise me if they are similar(may be the trim width edge thickness like in the clip above also)
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they should self bleed if most are primed you can crank it longer on the starter if your battery is good it will prime them up fairly soon, say 30 seconds
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i think My mufflers are round the wrong way i think on the gemini wagon, resonator at the back.. seems LOUD, i think the muffler might be a straight through one, has turbo something embossed into it. tri flow are supposed to be quieter if my wagon was a daily i'd definitely make it quieter
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what size exhaust suits this engine? 2" on the large side is it? and what mufflers are recommended? i reckon if @hendrixhc polished those wheels i'd like the magnums.. hotwires are probably more interesting to Me though.
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i think this "hardness" you are thinking of is when the valve is open depending on the position of the engine rotation when you stopped cranking.. i'd just check all the bolts are tight , pushrods are in place and fire it up personally.. that's what i've always done
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yeah that will ensure that there is no fuel getting into the engine(so wont get flooded) you should unplug the coil lead from the center of the distributor cap just to be double sure nothing will happen(as residual fuel pressure may make the engine fire up briefly) just crank it for a second or less and check all the rockers are doing what they were but in different positions
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near the brake booster, it's a green one, push the sides in to unclip it(it says it on it, people like Me always tried to pry the clips, but pushing them releases it easy)
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i'd assume if they are all bolted down, then you should be able to turn the motor over and those two will rock up(then be springing back) and 2 other ones will act as these 2 are now.. they are probably just in the opening stages. (the confusing stuff) firing order is 153624. that means, both valves will be closed on that firing position.. eg.. cyl 1 when on top dead center, will have both valves closed and there will be no tension on the rocker bolts, then rotated a bit more number 1 will be in exhaust stroke, so the exhaust will begin opening while cyl 5 is next for same then rotated a bit more number one will turn into intake stroke so the other will begin opening, number be on exhaust probably around this time.. you could go through and watch some youtube clips and probably find a scenario on video of this. but its probably the exact thing you are mentioning. just 2 valves fully open.
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can you upload any pics, i've been out all day and busy and brain fried when i get home. but you might just have a situation where those valves are open or opening(say an inlet on one cyl and an exhaust next to it..if i had enough brain power i would go through the firing order and see if this could be side by side...) if you turn the engine over with the bolt on the pulley it wont impact anything else but those valves will close should be easy to do up in My opinion.. Check with @gerg if this would be correct before just trying it. photos make a lot of sense when we the terminology or explanation is a bit hard to make sense of
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and XF went for many more years too, more time to get it right(supposedly)
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lol try working on an F100..need a ladder i've never seen a lifter puller.. must have missed that luxury... (all my cars are OHC now though)
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you can definitely get them in with the head on.. just need to be good at inventing things.. i ground down the tip of a coat hanger from memory that fitted in the lifter top hole, bent the wire so it hooked in and guided it into position and dropped it in.. need to be good at the game "operation"
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if one of the lifters was shorter the cam is probably wiped in that spot, that one will probably be noisy still.. either way it will run a bit rough also probably.
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looking forward to hearing if its sorted hydraulic lifters bleeding in tub of oil
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yeah, would be.
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new head bolts and an AU head gasket is the recommended fix.. assuming the head is still dead flat(could get it machined while off but at least check it's not corroded around water ports or warped by using a straight edge across it, should be fine if not overheated
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i remember soaking my lifters in a icecream container of oil overnight, i did see them bubble for a short while, but i doubt they did much.. they should self bleed within a very short time. Chris is correct regarding running with the rocker cover off.. the dipstick has a seal on it and needs to be pushed down to seal.. they can be very sensitive but they seem to work well when everything is working right
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no idea on cost( haven't done one in at least 10yrs) but as for lash adjustment, do the bolts up tight, there is no adjustment without shims or grinding posts or custom pushrods(not needed if everything is stock) there's a torque setting in the book. someone on here should have a book(i don't anymore)
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can't remember the last time i saw those door reflector/bumpers even in a wrecker very tidy XF, can't help with your issue other than the EFI cams were said to wear out (usually caused issues of rough running.. Crow make a New EFI Grind cam for them, might be worth considering a cam, lifter and timing chain replacement.. especially if its done over 200,000kms)
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are the broken ring lands from pinging(timing or crap fuel) or even a ridge on the bore(doubtful)
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was the biggest teeth number 23? if so, that's as close as you'll get. what car is it? might be able to fit a different sender (XD to XF is 20% difference 8pulse to 10pulse) you can adjust some speedos electronically a bit, also repositon the needle for a closer idea also
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has it burned an exhaust valve? valve seat recession, sticking valve.. if the head is off. what's the ridge like on top of the bore.. if decent, it might have broken a ring if no ridge and no scores in the bore i'd lean towards cracked head, burned valves, etc.(head issues) unless the cam is wiped and no inlet lift on those cyls.
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i'm fairly sure there is a holley adapter for it(there is.. but a manifold to suit would be better? and probably cheaper?) https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ADM-XF-XE-WEBER-STUD-PATTERN-CARBURETTOR-TO-HOLLEY-350-2BBL-CARBY-ADAPTOR-PLATE-/161802394047 there are some on gumtree.. this one might be same upside down? https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/toowoomba/engine-engine-parts-transmission/34-adm-webbers-and-adapter-plate/1164621838
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what kind of oil pressure switch has it got? one for the base model light or a guage? the light ones are common to leak, dont think its a rear main just because oil is at the bottom could also be the inlet manifold valley cover seal leaking or rocker covers or even sump.. if it's leaking so quickly, it should be easy to find if you wash everything, and run it for a few minutes if it is a rear main seal, try an engine stop leak additive, STP brand one is awesome for rear main seals.
