deankxf

yeah that is smart thinking, i'm a big fan of the CNC porting with this in mind(wonder how much they allow for core shift?, the black clevo heads were better for porting for this reason)

were scrap heads sacrificed for to see where the water lives? or is this a result of keeping port size and having great skill in the valve/pocket area

ahh yes, that then should only need to be the inlet valves to overcome boost? or does the exhaust get back pressure behind the valve also

as far as i know, to prevent valve bounce. why do they put heavier springs on boosted engines?

that one sounds more like an earth.. if the one going from engine to body is off(near the left middle bell housing bolt to firewall after you forgot to undo it on engine removal.. 4 times ) could also be the earths near the headlights

if you ask anyone ... they'll tell you to use 96 fuel.. or better. (plus octane booster even) you can get far more timing in, and compression ratio for better power for essentially free(doubt the fuel used per year difference would be justifyable at all)

if you can tear them by hand .. you know they aren't serviceable.. (aka good for use)

time for new hoses throughout .. i've cooked 2 engines due to hose issues in the last 25yrs.. and a mate of mine has done the same, but they were a magna and a pintara so it didn't matter.

LSD will turn in the same direction. should be good on this part of the question

XF calipers are the same as XE rear disc calipers, with bastard pins and slides. the EA EB ED series(XG and XH also has EA EB ED) had a similar hand brake setup as above but the mounting was completely different (aka Better)

those solid brakes are Eseries,(EA EB ED) or XG XH if you end up looking for kits for them. the others are pre XE, (if rotor comes off the axel when axel is still in Diff it will be XD .. others needed the axel removed. you've now convinced me to pull the back off My diff i bought.. because the brakes were all shagged from sitting outside.. i'd thought the super clean oil would mean the gears fine. but i now expect similar.

if you've had the dash out, check the earths behind the kick panels also, one used to go on the dash bracket, but i ended up screwing it separately with a tek screw because i was having issues. check what the others have said also. the one Mr Polson suggested runs the power for the whole car, if it's tripping out you'd lose nearly everything

cant remember.. 12 options to try.. think it was an intake one though so that narrows it to 6.. and i think it was one of the back 3,.. and not the last one.. so either cyl 4 or 5 inlet.. bobs your unlcle..

or on petrol missing a lifter shim on one rocker..

worn out XG XR6 on lpg... close enough?

interested in the process and outcome!

when the tyre rolls on turn in, will it have a chance of rubbing the sidewall on the upper arm?

i agree, if i was going to do anything, i'd change the filter.. that's the thing with the junk in it

thought they must retail also, as i bought the clutch from there and had my drums and discs and flywheel machined and shoes rebonded and radius ground... although, i know someone who works/worked there.. so next bet has to be an ABS brake joint would be my next stop..

My tyres wore evenly on My cars when Pedders aligned them.(for 20yrs) as long as nothing was worn(ball joints usually and an idler arm at least every 12months)(that was for 40,000kms a year ish 95% highway use naturally) i'd use poly bushes if you have them, but i'd keep an eye on them.. the castor ones chopped out quick on My car but made a difference to handling, My wish list for everlasting suspension bushes is rubber everywhere except sway bar.. (poly make a massive handling difference) shocker rubbers could be poly also, but i doub't you'll notice them.

i fitted a set of the greasable saddles the last XF i had, but didn't have it long after.. i would say i didn't notice any difference over rubber in the feel of the car as for the shelby drop, it was a total pain in the ass with BGDAV's XE on aftermarket springs, it had king lows in it.. and after the shelby drop it was tucking rim undrivable.. then after getting a king standard spring it was sitting higher than a Low still. on standard(LONG springs) it might not lose much height at all? (reading about it at the time i think half an inch was mentioned?) (BGDAV went to coil overs to upgrade the issue away... cheaper/easier than trial and error with springs?) if/when i had another ford i'd leave it stock, it works... depending on use

i have one of those it's not correct for brake lines

the brake mob doing the flare again should have them in stock.. it's a double flare on brake lines, i've never done one Myself(needs a special tool, and is a pain in the ass to do apparently )

if there is enough length still on the line(probably is) you can just put a new nut and have it flared on the end also.. (cut off with hack saw etc) i've had that done before when i've fitted E series diffs to XE XF before the adapter was known about(fitting X series nuts on E series brake line to the T hose block) was probably $10 for the nuts and flares done

i acutually just got an idea(i hate those"pipe" spanners aka nut rounders) i usually use a GOOD sidchrome shifter on the brake line nuts, tighten it once its on the nut and shock it undone, i have had to use vise grips before. BUT! i recon if you ground flats on the pipe spanner that vice grips could clamp onto also.. would be better(if there is space) those hard lines don't cost much to make, if you went to Campbelfield, you were near Highway Clutch and Brake at 189 Barry Rd Campbelfield http://www.highwayclutch.com.au/