deankxf

when fitting the E series diff, there is an adapter for the flexi hose from the diff to the body.. that can go from imperial to metric(e series metric)

i'm heaps tired at the moment(think i have a cold or flu) so the brain isn't working as well as it should.. BUT..here's a few things you need to get IMPLANTED into your head. XFs are VERY different to XGs. (XH heaps more.. almost nothing will fit) for your diff, brake master/booster will be fine, does your E series diff have the flat tailshaft plate? if so, your easiest solution is get an Eseries tail shaft(sedan for sedan) hand brake cable.. will need swapping also, if you have an EA EB ED diff, then get a handbrake cable from one of them.. EF EL diff. will need some custom stuff done(you may be able to cut and join between the 2) T5 was available in XF, so if you can find the correct gearbox cross member it will bolt in(pre AU t5) no need for CRS anything.. T5 crossflow bell housing has always been reasonably rare, but they are out there. an XF to EL 6 cyl T5 bolts in on the crossflow bell housing and XF T5 cross member mount if you are going OHC engine, then maybe wait till then to do the T5 conversion, because the ohc engine bell housing doesn't fit the crossflow and vice versa what do you like about the AU engine? i'd prefer a crossflow personally. what you want to do has been done heaps of times now, i just used google and include this in the search..ohc into XF ozfalcon.com and got this as a result.. might give some details you are looking for? i can't be bothered checkng it right now

1600 stock.. cheap, bolt in.. more power.. then, worked head, twin webbers.......

pity i couldn't give you a drive of the 1600 gemini.. Vs the 2litre.. bigger cubes, can't see why not. i'm sure there's a fuel flow test for the fuel pump. it's likely to be in the gregorys etc. could be ign timing related, vac advance, mechanical advance, point gap etc.. for the gutless ness

is it a ute? the late utes often have E series seat mountings, but i think 1988 was the first model for that but a sedan/wagon i'd say the nuts to undo the seat rails would be under the car you may find the later seats can be bolted to the XF seat rails without too much modification? but i haven't seen one for so long i can't remember if they are even close

i've had at least one head with welds in that area.. no idea who did it or why. pretty sure i have had 2 like it. but.. i wouldn't have cared as long as they worked in 90% of my cars

Ha! be lucky if i'm not sleeping on the bus when we go past.. already owe the sleep gods at least an hour a day for the last 2 weeks

it was a late head, 1987 XF, can't remember the code but it had the swirl part machined off as part of the CNC program

i also didn't take any of the ports.. would have been more noticable with the valves removed though, but mine had the chamber re shaped

My head from years ago was a CNC ported one, no idea how much or what(was pocket ported at min behind the valve) that was done at North Geelong Engine reconditioners. they had maps for L34 Holden head porting etc also

personally i'd go for the 289 with some work done, or start with a later model 5 litre engine? if there's any advantage even doing that a big heavy lump of tow truck engine is just going to upset the balance and drink fuel.. and fill the engine bay so full it may be hard to keep cool? depends what you do with it though.. i like the idea of a 289 in a ZB though, seems right

did you want it out the bonnet? i'd have gone for an under bonnet one if i was doing it, the procharger type no idea on cost or other, i'd probably stay NA for legal reasons.. and go for a stroker crank for more cubes and better heads for the same power?

always looks immaculate! i know it's not perfect, but i'd be happy with it as is

where are the water galleries? you may find the cost of development is dearer and not justifiable compared to just a decent port job

Sounds good. Yeah hardened valve seat probably don't rust much

can see the pitting in the valve seats from sitting for ages.. (remembers the drop in and run description..) My gemini head from the 20yr old barn storage ran ok, but the head dude is going to re cut all the seats and valves, did old mate say how bad yours were?

there's almost nothing we don't know about the X series ford..

isn't the lever at the back side in the middle?

i'd leave it in there unless you are making a race car where every kg counts.. most people add weight with amps and subs and big wheels.. and big exhausts. and bog...

i reckon that bar isn't on a non tow bar one... but there might be more reinforcing in the plastic bumper part where that sits.. been a long while since i've seen an XF bumper removed though.

can also try tipping hot water on it.. may also soften enough to release it's frozen on issue... might help

very good clip on it here..

you'll need to lap the valves being sitting that long for sure

i'd probably stick the head out in the QLD sun for an hour.. then cold spray the inside of what's left of the spark plug until it's COLD.. that SHOULD break it's bond.. while it's cold, soak into the threads, it should have a bees dick of space for CRC etc to get in.. if i was a tight ass(oh, i am..) i'd grind the edges of a bolt square and tapered a bit(copy of the easy out above) if it's a loose fit maybe a bit of coke can on one corner? see if it will come out. that said, you've done most of the work already.. the head dude that's going to change valve stem seals and lap the valves will probably pull that thread out in a few mins from there.

wish i took photos of the gemini head i took in to be cleaned up.. it should come back new looking. this head is pretty clean, did you use wire brush on the drill