deankxf

DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. XF brakes should be fine, when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple. and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show. i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration. otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know, so it's something you can try before going further. A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also)

bumping this for new members @Crebe (quality of protex brake master cyl)

@Thom may know? did the manual XR have a smaller tunnel than the auto ones? this is the case with some earlier stuff from memory.

you can glue a dash mat on it.. fixed. the state of the other trim is pretty rough, sure it's not worth finding another interior or do you have good trim for it? you can get them redone at huge expense ($800 rings a bell) i've seen (and i'm likely to do similar on My gemini one) slicing out the high part of the crack so it's a bit lower than the top, mixing up some fibreglass resin and laying it in the crack , then bogging over, sanding and painting the whole thing . depends on your budget and if you care if it' cracks again(i think it's so brittle now it's likely to crack again anyway unless fully recovered)

i don't have any pics handy, but we fitted an EF radiator and fans to an XG of My mates' last year, this was done by using approximately 50mm square tube to space up the bottom, mounting XF lower mounts to that (for the radiator to sit on, 2 wide rubber pads unlike the XF radiator uses 2 different size end tanks) and the top mounts as i modded on My XE. this was due to fitting an EF EL engine to it (easier to find than another EA EB ED XG engine these days)

this is a quote from Ant's wagon thread with LS2 or LS3? engine Just thinking about this. The car now has a ve radiator and fans and when it was tuned I asked Phonsey to drop the temp at which the ecu turns the fans on as it always ran a bit hot with the falcon fans and radiator. It cools itself brilliantly now. The temp guage gets to 3/4, the fans kick in and within 20 seconds they pull the temp back to 1/4 so it's never really hot. posts mentioning radiator in his thread are here (changed from modified use XD radiator when changing the intake setup to an over the radiator "OTR" setup. http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/search/&q=radiator&type=forums_topic&item=37

My XE had the XE Air con condensor installed with that radiator, i would expect an XF one to be in the same spot(identical radiator hole to XE) XG uses a completely different bottom radiator mount setup, i also questioned people regarding this when i did the conversion. (i got an XG radiator to try prove them wrong, and an AU one .. didn't fit.) the EF one will fit if you cut a slot for the side pipe(fill hose) XG and EA EB ED have bigger size lower radiator hose outlets .. the EA EB ED are the same size as EF EL otherwise, XG narrower but possibly deeper, maybe the lower hose hit the cross member the caster rods mount to? i can't remember. XG is different by far to XD XE XF though in the lower radiator mount area. i think Ants used a commodore radiator and fan ? in his XD wagon with LS2 engine. i'll see if i can find the post, it was a neat fit

The EA to EL(XH same) radiator is a better fit than XG. The ef el.have same size outlet top and bottom. Not sure what size the Windsor has. I have a pic of my xe with el radiator and Thermos with 1uz engine but not sure if you will even have space. I'll see if I can find it if we get power back on after the storms..still no power here eastern suburbs melb from memory you can set the bottom mounts to fit the radiator (like an XF) and the top i cut the EF mounting tabs off and modified the top XF mounts with a bracket (cut the mounting part off the hook part and sat the radidiator in and made a plate for between and welded. ) i can't remember why you can't use the top mounts, but i have seen them used with mods to the car. you need to cut a piece out of the side support near headlight mounts for the header tank /fill port neck to clear.

Absolutely amazing results and credit to you for turning around another write off decision by insurers. Been a pleasure following the restoration here and hearing the ups and downs of the process. So glad it's transformed by the tasteful modifications into a better road car too!

depends on what your budget is, you should read Slydog's thread entirely. he's not been on and posting for a long while, but you'll get a fair idea of what's doable and what's needed (it blew up earlier in the thread, so make sure to keep reading to see what failed and why *I can't remember) pretty sure he's kept the stock rod length, and it's using an EF crank, (more counterweights for better balance) later in the thread it's now boosted

@SPArKy_Dave may speak that language? i vaguely remember one terminal needs power put to it to excite some part of it.. not enough memory to advise anything

in My experience most borg warner diff V8s were 2.92 (9" had 2.75) there's only 5% difference to them. 2.92 at 100kmh would be about 2400rpm 2.77 at 100 would be 2300 ish 3.45 XR6 diff you have should be 2850rpm 3.23 XR8 diff would be about 2650/2700rpm if you have a ready to fit 2.92 diff, just chuck it in, 2.77 isn't enough difference to be worried about even on a 6cyl 99% of the time.

kia rio would probably chop a stock XE no matter what the diff ratio. i reckon the 2018 i30 we have would chop a stock 351 ESP even down the 1/4

what do you mean run out longer? 2.77 with an auto will do say 90kmh ish in 1st gear at 5400rpm 3.23 by comparison might be around 70kmh. (but will take off faster)

In My experience, Pedders were the softest of all the aftermarket springs, when i asked/mentioned this to Pedders, they said we recommend a sway bar upgrade also (they sell a package type)

this makes me believe they are standard length shocks , big bore(handle the stronger springs) and short stroke (stop the shock bottoming out and also retain the spring better) would be the go. you'll be amazed at what new(good quality) shocks do to a falcon

never seen it, in at least 50 cars i've poked around with(including at wreckers)

those pics show the springs are BEEFY, i suspect not cut stock ones. and it's seated on the saddle well with surprisingly rubber pads under(never seen anyone do that before) THE SHOCKER IS STUFFED (covered in oil) this could be the noise, i'd remove it and see how stuffed it actually is Ride height looks at LOWS height, which is a good height for drivability, bump stop clearance looks sufficient also and hasn't been pounded away from a soft spring.. fit some BIG BORE short stroke shocks, there's budget ones on ebay AU, but if you can stretch for Koni brand they were the choice back in the day (i've only had Pedders branded ones, which i liked)

the top part of the spring is flat, it sits in a bit of a recess so wouldn't have any issue there unless it wasn't put in properly initially (possibly but unlikely) the part that sits on the spring saddle has a tail end that is meant to sit on the spring saddle against a stop. (rotated into position when it's not under tension when fitting it initially) if you jack up the car (both wheels off the ground otherwise the sway bar will hold tension) the shocks should hold the spring captive, if not either you have superlows with standards shocks or ultra lows check everything is still bolted up right proper springs will be red (pedders) blue(lovels) yellow (kings ) orange(kmac) etc but if they are plastic coated black, they will be cut and therefore don't usually sit on the saddle well(or drive very well either, boing boing bump stop crash etc) you should be able to jack up the side that's got issues under the lower control arm, take the weight off the shocker then loosen/remove shock bolts and let the arm down further.. pedders, king, springs etc if LOWS ) will be movable in there with some mild force, super lows and ultralow will be easy to reseat/reposition. cut springs will be soft enough to wrestle back into position (or the bin if you plan to drive the car much) i'd be checking if a lower control arm bush or something else failed while you are under there(caster rubber if nolathane etc)

sway bar is no where near the pitman arm, i'd be dubious if they know what they are on about, i also don't think the 4.0 is any different clearance wise to a clevo, so another sounding like rubbish response. easy way to tell would be to see if the part number is same for XG and XA XB XC XD XE V8 and an XF 6cyl with power steering, i'm betting they are all the same and only the manual one is different

they don't interchange from memory, i don't know about ackerman angle changes, but it would be wise to check if it's put the toe out after fitting. it's possibly a different shape and length, and yeah you end up with a larger turning circle which is a considerable annoyance at times. (depending on the use of the car, i prefer the manual ones due to the ultra reliability of them)

I'm not 100% but 99% sure the only difference between a XA and XG power steering box is the return pipe (instead of straight up, it comes out to the side) and should be roller bearing in the top cover as many rebuilds would have had this done as a retro fit i believe also if not. *the pitman arm on power steering is different, so you'll need a power steering one fitted if it's a bare box(XA one would fit the XG box, and XG one would fit the XA drag link) ** the steering column to rag joint distance differs on power steering to manual box, this is changed by tapping up/in or down/out the end of the steering column at the box end(collapsible column the end can slide up with some effort in a crash) i can never remember which way it needs for fitting a power steering box (done it both ways before) i levered against the firewall due to not being fussed about scratches to extend one once, but if you undo the dust boot/panel in the footwell, you can tap it down to the box from there easily. or if it needs going the other way, it's just some tap taps with the hammer from the engine bay side. if you already had power steering, an XG box would be a direct fit other than the return hose which shouldn't be an issue (might be pointing the wrong way for a show car pipe run perhaps with hidden astra pump?) with the information above, you should be able to verify it with some other sources/pictures and go from there.

I've had to bend the rods, and reposition the pivot before to take up some slack on rear doors. i suspect due to non genuine handle ?

could also be POINT BOUNCE, i recall it being an issue on something i had, gap too wide possibly but mine was caused by worn dizzy bushings

certainly looks amazing with the all the detailing. i'd definitely be trying another oil pressure gauge asap, stuck on 20 max seems like a gauge needle fouling on something inside? has it got decent valve springs? could it be the 5000rpm valve spring bouncing?