Mr Polson

 
Sounds exactly like my issue, except it occurred on low beam.

 

 

i've never had to change one, what wattage globes do you have fitted? might be an issue with 100/90 globes, which are only going to melt the globe holders not go any brigher..

 

 

 

My wagon had the same issue when I first got it with the high beams, turn them on and after 15 or so seconds it'd lose power to all lights until the circuit breaker reset. That only had standard 60/55 globes. Changed it out for one from a parts car and it's been fine since. The one I pulled out was pretty rusty and corroded looking on the outside, so couldn't have been to great internally.

Circuit breaker is definitely the issue.
They look slightly different these days but should be on the shelf at most auto stores (or at least most Repcos).

Link is for a 25A one which doesn't seem very common as it's warehouse stock only, but 20A and 30A are readily available.

https://www.repco.com.au/en/globes-batteries-electrical/electrical-accessories/fuses-circuit-breakers/narva-circuit-breaker-auto-reset-25a-1-pce/p/A9263889

i'd estimate the 3.23 diff would be around 2600rpm at 100kmh. 
with a 2.92 and same box would get it down to 2350 ish
 
the overdrive on a T5 with the 3.23 would be around 2000rpm. 
i've had the 2.92 and 2.77 with T5 and it's closer to 1800.. 

the difference is, it didn't make any(or much at all) difference to fuel economy and the main noticable difference is NOISE at highway speeds. 
 
if you are going to use a single rail, be sure to replace the selector rail seal, 99.5% of the time these are flogged out and leaking oil. (i've bought a few cars that didn't leak a drop.. because they were EMPTY of oil ) remove extension housing to replace,  need to knock a roll pin out of the gearshift end of the shaft  to remove..
 
the other thing to note is the XB diff is wider, not HEAPS wider than an XR-XY diff, but if you have deep dish wheels now, you should measure the drum to drum width and check.. they do fit with stock wheels, not sure on wide ones.

also depends if you have a bench seat, if so.. the single rail with cortina housing will fit better with that, i'm sure you'd need to chop the seat up a bit for a T5 or even falcon single rail stick location. 
 
i reckon the ratios are perfect with a 2.92 diff and 4 speed . (that said, a T5 is much the same, with the addition of 5th you can pretty much only use at 100kmh with this ratio)
 
with the 3.23 diff, you row through the gears quicker, this is different if you've fitted a bigger cam that revs higher happily(most  stock ones run out of puff around 4000)  

lots to consider
is the single rail bell housing a hydraulic one also? they came in 3 different configurations so to speak (hydraulic, cable on the drivers side pre unleaded, and cable on the left due to space for the cat on the unleaded)  
 
if it was Me,  i'd keep all the bits regardless. can always swap and change later.
 
 
 
 

it should be findable in XE and XF falcon(wagon)  with leaf springs, 
it seems more common in XE and XF sedans for whatever reason. and fairlane/ltd of same (coil springs)
i haven't seen a combo that was consistent with ford.. seen My brothers 3.3 XF auto with 2.77 ratio, and i've had 2.92 and 2.77 in many others(i've owned HEAPS of XD XE XF over the last 25yrs up till about 5yrs ago) wrecked a few for parts also.
 

OK it has a boot like a manual stick?

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FGs have a very different shifter setup to BA/BF, none of the shifter channel is exposed if that makes sense.

For reference, an easy way to tell the difference between the 3.3 5sp and the T5 is reverse location, T5 has reverse under 5th whereas the weak 5sp has it next to 1st.

Boxes also look quite different externally.

You can get rubber gaskets for the xflow rocker cover, I've got one on my wagon.
Acts as a bit of a spacer too.

If you want to clean up a sludgy engine, use a diesel oil. It has higher amount of detergent to remove and hold soot buildup. Then dump it, add some oil with correct amount of zinc in it and see how it fares.

Hotrodders used to use Shell Rotella as it was an old school diesel oil with good zinc, but they eventually took that out too. So don't go putting that in on the advice of old-timers.

Nowadays, you either have to seek out a correct oil with 1400 ppm of ZDDP (ie race oil, no good for the street) or put a zinc additive into normal oil.

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Just some 10w-30 Castrol stuff I think it was. Not sure, the old oil did the same though. 

 
Ok, I'm curious now on how you get the lifters out without taking the head off. Because it really is only one lifter tapping. The rest are all pumped up nicely. But like you said it might come good. In fact, I started yesterday and the oil pressure came straight up too 40+psi (much better than the 20 or less it did have) and there was basically no taping. But, when it heats up a bit, the oil pressure comes back down and starts tick fording again. 

[mention=21]Mr Polson[/mention] might have a link to a Hydraulic Valve Lifter Puller he used? 
i did it bush mechanic style with a ground down coat hanger wire to hook into the hole that lines up with the pushrod oil hole.. needed to work the lifter up and down a fair bit to get the crud to clear so it would come out.. (one is difficult to access, but is possible) 
[mention=43]Thom[/mention] might also have a suggestion, 
but you mentioned your Dad was a mechanic, so ask him also

Looking at just the video of the rockers I'm going to guess wiped cam lobe, if the pushrods are straight.

Don't know where the pictures are anymore but I had a crossflow wipe a cam lobe, was EFI so no carb issues but it was very tappy sounding and lost a fair amount of performance.

If the motor is nothing special probably be just as easy to replace it vs repair it - I repaired mine but it was only 10,000km old from a full rebuild at the time.

When I first registered my wagon it had the stock manifold and engine pipe/cat, with only one muffler.
Soon gave it a set of headers afterwards, and then a few years later had to put a new cat in to have it re-registered, also put in a full OE wagon exhaust - 3 mufflers, can't say any of it seemed to make any difference to performance

Okay, here's a few pics of mine. Interesting to note coil power and fuel cut off is same coloured wires.

Like I said, mine doesn't have any emission controls functioning.

Red wire near fuel cut off is Throttle Position Sensor, only on late unleaded XFs with the electronic spark timing.

The spring on mine is an aftermarket addition of my own too, added a auto kickdown bracket and then got a beefy spring, I personally prefer the pedal feel with the spring.

Have you had a read through this?

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/7026-ford-registered-technician-bulletin-34-adm-weber-carb

Should cover most of the carby questions.

I can get some pics tomorrow of how I have the hoses and wires and everything setup on my ute - it's not factory as all the emission stuff is deleted but it runs well.

Go to Tilford for the plugs, genuine plugs are about $10ea, NGK ones through me will be $20 a plug.

But everything else I can help with

ZF6 boxes have an internal, integrated control module that controls the box, and talks to the other modules in the car.

In other words, there is no external switch on the ZF boxes. There's one multi-pin plug, everything else in internal.
Non ABS models had an external speed sensor.

If it hasn't been done already, I'd strongly recommend a trans service too. Ford say the ZF boxes are filled for "life" - meaning warranty. Every 100,000kms is the general accepted service interval for ZF6 boxes by aftermarket people. Make sure you use either the ZF Lifeguard fluid, or Penrite do a BMV fluid that meets the specs.

I definitely agree with Panko about the whole 2.77 diff with early T5, or 3.23 kinda ratio for the later ones.

My XF ute has a late T5, with 3.23 diff. Panko and I done some comparisons once, when he still had the 2.77 diff, he'd do the same revs at 100km/h with the early T5 and 2.77 as my ute with the late T5 and 3.23.

Definitely also recommend the reinforcement of the firewall. If needed I can grab a pic of my ute which has the firewall reinforced. Clutch pedal has never been touched to my knowledge though.

And unless you're specifically wanting a manual, they're a really nice vehicle to drive when the auto is working well.

I not long ago completed a 4000km trip across Tas/Vic/NSW in my Ghia wagon, with the EFI 250, auto (and working AC). For the long distances, just putting it in D and setting the cruise control is great.

For reference, across that trip, with a fully loaded car, AC almost always on (and running R134 gas), and the wrong cam in the motor (carby cam which has different valve timing), I returned an average fuel economy of 13L/100.

I really don’t want to risk it not starting again,  it was a massive pain last time. I think I’m just going to pull it and fork out for a freshy. I’ll of course clean up connections also. 

I ended up running a “dayco” thermostat and a new housing from ebay. 

Nothing wrong with a few scratches and swirls if it's original old paint if you ask me.

Next time you need to clay a car, you can make your life a billion times easier if you get a clay pad rather than the old bars.

https://www.bowdensown.com.au/claying-rubber

 
Looks awesome mate, crystal clear resolution...
nice work!

Updated the original post with clearer, new scans

@SPArKy_Dave all pages are there and rescanned in better quality.

I could scan it into a single PDF document but not sure where or how to host that if I did.

Just thought I’d close this post out, changed out thermostat and thermostat housing. Still uses same amount of fuel and stats really cool on temp gauge. So I’m guessing these are just pigs on fuel and she stays cool . Anyway cheers guys