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Agree with Ants. Piss the striker off. Pull the splash guard out of the guards to give better access to the hinge bolts and align it at the pillar.
While the doors have a fair bit of alignment at the door itself I really only mainly use them to move the door in and out to get them flush. You have to be in the ball park at the pillar first then fine tune at the door itself  from there. Make sure your hinge bushes aren't flogged cause this will give you more dramas. Concentrate on an even gap along the back to the quarter first.  the sill should go close to being right from there.
To get the front can be tricky on these. I've had some cars that sit perfectly with little fuss and others that regardless what I did they were never quite right. You may need to move the guard around also once you've got the door close. Gapping these cars is always a bit of a compromise as they were all over the place gap wise even from new.

Agree with Ants. Piss the striker off. Pull the splash guard out of the guards to give better access to the hinge bolts and align it at the pillar.
While the doors have a fair bit of alignment at the door itself I really only mainly use them to move the door in and out to get them flush. You have to be in the ball park at the pillar first then fine tune at the door itself  from there. Make sure your hinge bushes aren't flogged cause this will give you more dramas. Concentrate on an even gap along the back to the quarter first.  the sill should go close to being right from there.
To get the front can be tricky on these. I've had some cars that sit perfectly with little fuss and others that regardless what I did they were never quite right. You may need to move the guard around also once you've got the door close. Gapping these cars is always a bit of a compromise as they were all over the place gap wise even from new.

Agree with Ants. Piss the striker off. Pull the splash guard out of the guards to give better access to the hinge bolts and align it at the pillar.
While the doors have a fair bit of alignment at the door itself I really only mainly use them to move the door in and out to get them flush. You have to be in the ball park at the pillar first then fine tune at the door itself  from there. Make sure your hinge bushes aren't flogged cause this will give you more dramas. Concentrate on an even gap along the back to the quarter first.  the sill should go close to being right from there.
To get the front can be tricky on these. I've had some cars that sit perfectly with little fuss and others that regardless what I did they were never quite right. You may need to move the guard around also once you've got the door close. Gapping these cars is always a bit of a compromise as they were all over the place gap wise even from new.

Clean up back to bare metal then epoxy straight over the metal. This seals off the metal from the elements. Then guide coat and start blocking with 120 on a board file. Mark any lows that show up key up the areas and apply your bog . Then high fill as per usual. Block with 180 dry and reprime. 180 then 240 dry block and if it's a clear over base black 400 wet then 800 wet.

Hey Matty I rate the idea bro...come see us at the Ford Nationals and I'll introduce you to Jarrod Woods.He has a 408 in a Silver Fox XR sedan that made 565 hp at a low 6250 RPM and with Pro Comp cast heads.I shit you not Pro Comp castings.It was built by VIntage Racing services in town here and his car WILL run a very low 11 or 10sec pass as it's prepped with Cal Tracs,3500 convertor,3.9's and a 275 drag radial.His engine really needs more camshaft to use the cubes but it proves for the money your talking it can be done easy enough.
 
You will even love the car cos his work is TOP NOTCH and coming from a insurance assessor you can understand why I guess...
 

 

 
 
At Narandera Rod Run Easter time before we left for GM's place.

Thats one sexy xr right there!  I agree could be done on that coin. As you said engine. Not whole driveline unless you got alot of it kicking round already.