Ando81

I think I’ve heard of a resistor coil only operating on 8v but can’t be 100% sure. If you get a mate to crank the car and check voltage of the battery it will probably drop to 10 or so volts. This may not prove anything but may surprise you as to how low the volts drop during cranking.

Could it be a dodgy starter zapping all the power to turn over and in turn robbing power from the coil as it’s trying to start? Maybe if you get a mate to crank it for you and you put a positive wire direct from the battery to coil it might start. I saw this done on a Range Rover V8 a while ago and it worked, I think a relay was placed onto the wiring to the starter and kept it working until the starter completely died.

Thanks for sharing the top quality pics mate and the cool custom tools. That is what makes this forum awesome, having simple tips to make some of the tedious jobs a lot easier for us all. [emoji1303]

That stag paste is some of the stickiest crap I’ve ever had to get off my fingers. It should seal well [emoji23]

Is that pic taken from “Eleanor” from gone in 60 seconds movie?

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other

Anything in particular I should be looking for in an lsd diff? I’m an lsd addict [emoji23] only commodores spin a single wheel [emoji1303]

Great write up mate and a good heads up for blokes like me who have had a diff sitting in the shed for 5 years waiting to be installed. I’ll be sure to check out for signs of crusty bits inside any diff before installing it into my cars. Of course I’d be checking brake parts for corrosion but probably would have just checked diff oil level and put it to work, now I’ll give it a good going over beforehand. Thanks for sharing your knowledge [emoji1303]

That’s similar to what my xe did Jack, right before the poo started running down my leg. I heard it kind of pop then the wheezing sound every time the pedal was depressed. Maybe yours is leaking slightly [emoji51]

Great thread mate, very informative and handy for anyone keen to do a bit of diy. I still remember my xe falcon shitting a diaphragm one day on the way to a speedway meet, made the trip very exciting driving to the track with loaded car trailer and a boot full of spares. I almost needed both feet on the brake pedal to pull her up at times [emoji51]

Bloke at work offered me an xf efi motor the other day and I considered putting it into my xf sedan that’s currently carb fed but I think it’s more hassle than it’s worth adding the extra bits to get the efi working. I might put the later crank in it being it’s an 86 block and gain the extra 30kw some other way than efi. It doesn’t get driven much so maybe a really lumpy cam would be the way to go. I hope your problems get sorted soon mate, it’s frustrating me and I am not paying the mechanics [emoji51]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F271822786042 Is this any good to you? I wasn’t sure if it was the same or not [emoji51]

If you’ve gone to the trouble of balancing the motor then I’d get the flywheel lightened and balance it at the same. I know blokes have lightened flywheels on 6 cylinder speedway motors and they’ve noticed a difference in power.

Hi all, my brother has an irregular fault with his ba falcon ute. It is a V8 but pretty sure it’s the 220 engine not the boss. So sometimes when he starts it and it runs at idle it’s asif 2 cylinders drop out and the engine runs rough. It may only be 1 cylinder but it sounds bad. The engine light comes on but a scan tool will not find any codes. It can idle rough for up to 2 or more minutes but if he turns the engine off then re-starts it it will run perfectly. I suspect an electrical gremlin somewhere. The ute runs great even when you give it a thrashing through the gears “manual”. Would appreciate any thoughts on the matter [emoji1303]

Ha ha that’s so bizarre. Beats trying to fix them all with a soldering iron [emoji1303]

I’m wondering if there is an ecu diagnostics test that I can do, I saw a bloke do it years ago and got a code out of an Na fairlane with his test light. Or does obd do all of that now?

Boiling water to fix the solder joints???? Surely you’re taking the piss [emoji51]

Thanks fellas, a bloke also suggested that it could be a worn timing chain too and the cam sensor may not agree with the crank angle sensor which sounded reasonable too.

2jz and do power skids like this.

Hi all, I thought I should start a trailer bearing thread here as we all probably have a trailer or two. Yesterday I was getting my fishing boat ready to take away for the long weekend and thought I’d better jack up the wheels and check bearings for noise and free play. Well there wasn’t much free play but boy was there some noise. It’s a single axle and both sides were rumbling. I’ve only had the boat for 2 years but the week prior to my buying the boat the previous owner had new bearings and seals done throughout. He had a receipt for work done so I know it was definitely done. Even with proper marine seals fitted I noticed some water had gotten into the inner bearing and turned the grease into black gunk. I bought 2 new bearing kits and new marine seals and packed them with Penrite marine grease. I’m hoping to get a bit more life out of these new bearings as the other ones would have been luck if they did 1500 kms. Do me a favour and check your wheel bearings on your trailers next time you’re in the shed please legends, it may save you a lot of heartache being stuck on the side of the road. Does anyone on here use Dura-Hub bearing caps? I’m thinking of changing my trailers over to their system running bearings in oil instead of grease as they have a clear plastic window on the outside so that you can monitor oil level and see if it changes colour from contamination.

Great feedback thanks fellas. I read on a yachting forum how a fussy owner had ran an oil line into his axle so that he had a hose full of oil like a diff breather and it was full of oil up above the axle height as he mounted the hose onto his trailer winch post. I’d be worried about the hubs being totally full of oil might encourage the oil seal to leak. Maybe annual maintenance is the key as already mentioned.

The Dura-hub is basically just a cap that replaces a standard bearing cap but has a clear plastic front and a plug that is removable for topping up the oil level. Most common bearing buddies are a spring loaded system where you grease a grease nipple and a spring pushes approximately 3psi of pressure onto the outside of the hub to help hold the grease pressurised in there so contaminants cannot enter the hub.

I’ve been told it’s pretty common to see them crack through there as there isn’t much meat to hold it all together.

Glad you got her running good mate. As for rust repair, check out the repairs Rod “2redrovers” has been doing on this forum. Thread title is “my cars and whatever’s in the shop” or something like that. Outstanding quality of work, not just a cheap patch up job that’s for sure [emoji1303]

It depends what type of diff it is mate but when I had limited knowledge and tools I just bought a complete second hand diff and swapped it out. Pretty simple job but removing a centre can be a bit more laborious.