Jump to content
Elmakko

Lgp dedicated ford ticks over but won't stay alive

Recommended Posts

not too sure what happened was driving fine put 30 in her Saturday and she died Sunday night kicks over but won't stay on there's no idle and nothing happens when I accelerate its a ba na, think it might be the converter I've got one limed up am I able to do this myself or will I need to take it to someone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In theory it's just swapping parts over if it's the same model BUT make sure that you turn the supply off at the tank before undoing anything. Be prepared for some escape from the lines and don't get freezer burns. There's also coolant running through it. The problem I can see is when you get it swapped over, will the new one need tuning or set up? That would be the benefit of having a pro do it for you. I've heard that the converter can get waxed up and stop working, I believe there is a drain on them but I'm not familiar enough to give any more than general info.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

something you can try on LPG cars if you suspect it's converter.. is to tip HOT water Boiling even. over the converter.. this will soften up the GUNK that can build up inside..
if it's suddenly working fine.. then it's a dirty converter.. (i was told they can't be cleaned, but i'd have a go if i had one.. i had to clean Landi brand converter every 12 months in My XF)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, deankdx said:

something you can try on LPG cars if you suspect it's converter.. is to tip HOT water Boiling even. over the converter.. this will soften up the GUNK that can build up inside..
if it's suddenly working fine.. then it's a dirty converter.. (i was told they can't be cleaned, but i'd have a go if i had one.. i had to clean Landi brand converter every 12 months in My XF)

That is definitely worth a try.

Then

Turn off the gas at the tank, and try to start it 2 or 3 times to purge gas from the lines.

There is a drain plug under the converter. It's a brass plug from memory, maybe 10mm.

Drain any crap from it.

There is the solenoid on top of the converter.

Undo the electrical plug, and the small bolt, sit it all aside.

There is a brass piece the solenoid attaches to that screws into the housing, maybe a 13 or 14 mm spanner required, and a pair of pointy nosed pliers.

Carefully remove the screw on piece, and the plunger and spring below it.

Be careful as this can fly apart as it is being disassembled.

Below this is a jet, which can be removed with a flat screwdriver.

Clean everything well with Carby cleaner, including spraying into where the jet screws in.

Reassemble, including the drain plug.

Open the tank valve, and cycle the key, but don't start.

Check for leaks with a mixture of dishwashing liquid and water squirted over the fittings etc. and cycle the key a couple more times.

If there are no leaks, go ahead and start.

 

If you are not confident, is probably better to get someone who is experienced with LPG

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anybody live in Adelaide, Northern area can get a converter for 160 but don't feel too confident putting it in and don't wanna spend an arm and leg having someone pro do it, can give ya some cash or supply beers whatever floats ya boat

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×