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wokko

(Solved) Xg Starting issues

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Little background :

I got a 1993 XG ute little over a week ago which wasn't running, apparently had starting issues and was told smartlock issue possibly hence my other thread                         'http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/8103-93-xg-ute-smartlock-or-not/

Doesn't have a smartlock and issue was no power to injectors plus not priming on ignition

which I figured out was the wiring for lpg which it was dual fuel at one stage of its life (thanks to some users here and other ford forums)

I have removed all traces of the lpg wiring from under dash and where it was spliced into the injector loom back of inlet manifold.

which has come to my starting issue thread now

I rejoined the cut wires and now have power to injectors (progress 😁)

issue now is when I turn the ignition on it doesn't prime the system but it did the first time I tried after joining the injector loom and started up no problems (sounded nice ☺️)

would the ignition switch itself be faulty if only primes every now and then or am I barking up the wrong tree and should look else where first ???

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the clue mine had when i found My ign switch to be an issue was when you had the headlights on, it would bring up the "lights on" warning on the cluster(as if you had the key off/removed with the headlights on)  

the car still ran like this, i don't know how or why, but thats the only thing that lead me to change it. apparently it's not uncommon for them to pack up(the local wrecker has changed heaps of them for various problems)

 

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Just make sure you know what you are doing, or know someone who does.. 

when i got mine, 
i just changed the electrical switch part on the back. (on XF and prior these have grub screws holding the lock switch in, but XG onwards are "pinned" they are just pressed in with no way of getting them out.. (no "correct way" ?)
i just put a chisel to the side of the lock and knocked it a few times and this forced the "pins up enough to remove.  refitting just needed the "pins" pushed back into position.

if you change the lock assembly whole you'd probably need to remove the steering column to get access and grind slots in the bolts or chisel undone as they have special heads that snap off when fitted.
 

if you remove the ign key barrel DO NOT turn the mechanism inside! just remove it.. on acc position ,and swap key barrel .. if you do turn it OFF with the key barrel removed it will go CLUNK, this is game over.. throw the lock housing in the bin afterwards.

if you have smart lock you need to turn the key to IGN and leave for 30mins? for it to learn something again . 

 

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Cheers for the info, I was just going to grab the whole ignition with new key and just plug it in to see if it works and if so I will then take mine apart and fit the replacement.

Hopefully it is as simple as a bad ignition....... I can't wait to get the xg out and about and see how she runs :)

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just remember there's pre smart lock and smart lock ign lock assy for them, 
mine was smart lock and i used an EL or something ign switch(basically chose the car with the least worn steering wheel/low kms i could find at the wreckers) as an experiment.

by the time i fixed all the issues on My XG i was over it. sold it while it was working

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3 hours ago, deankdx said:

mine was smart lock and i used an EL

mine has no smartlock I think as it has the window for it in the cluster but never lights up

so I should be fine with early nineties up to my 1993 without smartlock

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13 minutes ago, wokko said:

mine has no smartlock I think as it has the window for it in the cluster but never lights up

so I should be fine with early nineties up to my 1993 without smartlock

yeah it's probably the same as XD to EA and the EB series 1 

 

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Just double check that all your earths are secured. They are temperamental to bad earths. Even a loose earth on battery can cause auto to go into limp mode to relays to work intermittent or not at all. Had every scenario with my ute just from earth. Also if you swapped dizzy check the earth wire that goes to engine block next dizzy. They are 25 year old cars now and that wire gets brittle and breaks ( had that done to me once too) Otherwise the old bangers keep going.


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35 minutes ago, Banno said:

Just double check that all your earths are secured.

That was my plan for tomorrow, forgot about earth near dizzy will look at that one too, cheers

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The ecu supplies a ground for the pump to run few seconds when ignition is turned on to prime after that picks up pip to keep pump running when engine runs till ignition is turned off and no signal. Check grounds but also swap relay with new or known working relay. Best person for this is Outback jack maybe send a message it may bring him around as he hasn’t been on here for long while


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23 hours ago, Banno said:

The ecu supplies a ground for the pump to run few seconds when ignition is turned on

Might be on to something there as whoever done the wiring for the lpg/petrol switch did run a wire off the back of the diagnostic plug (top right pin of plug)

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Update

First thanks to everyone for there help

The issue was the fuel relay bracket

I tested the relay on my ea falcon but this time I was lazy and didn't screw the relay back onto the fender before I tested the relay and the same thing happened as my xg, no priming when the ignition was turned on.

So I grabbed the ea relay with the bracket on it and put it on the xg and screwed it to the fender and all systems go

so that bracket must have some sort of grounding effect for the relay ?????

 

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3 minutes ago, deankdx said:

don' t bet on it, 

could be the relay itself or the connections .. and you've just disturbed its' dead spot my moving it around etc

Probably was the relay, I'll test another one tomorrow to see what the go is, but it does seem strange both the ea and xg relays did the same on both cars, not connected to fender and no prime, connect to fender and it primes.... possibly a X-file :)

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