car10001 52 Posted December 16, 2023 Hi Have question, what would cause a bit of brake fluid to come out the container on a new master cyl between the container and metal part on master cyl at the o rings or the lid in the ba. Opened lid on container and it hasn’t lost any and level hasn’t done down. Had a whole new master cylinder fitted a few weeks ago and everything checked out good. It doesn’t do it all time, just some. Is there any chance that it might just be spillage and just a bit full. Fluid is at max brakes still work ok Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted December 17, 2023 If it's a chinese knockoff 'PBR' master cyl made by Protex, I've read numerous people advising not to use them, as they can be problematic. Better to re-seal/sleeve the original PBR unit IMO. If it's an aftermarket one, it could be leaking? Watch it doesn't leak onto the engine bay paint! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crebe 16 Posted February 19 I have had brake fluid squirting up and comming out of the master cylinder and running onto the area underneath. Only found it too late for the paint. The brake experts wont help or have no idea. All sorts of sugestions came from this forum so I decided to buy a new master after preasure bleeding and vacume bleeding, as well as putting on a new PBR CAP SEAL! Now I read that the cylinder I picked "Protex" after being assured they were good, is not recomended as they have problems. SHIT AND F..UCK ME! Anyway you may have the same gremlin as me. If this new Protex cylinder is a fail, after I bash my head on the concrete floor, I will try for a rebuilt origonal unit worth a bazilion dollars. How the hell do brake parts that are new be crap? How do they make it into the country. On the subject the Protex unit i bought would not let the fitting screw in far enough to seal the lines. The thread in the master was not tapped deep enough and so the fittings had to be changed. Cut the lines and add in new different fittings on a short new piece with a union. Dont buy Protex would be my recomendation! 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted February 19 4 hours ago, Crebe said: How the hell do brake parts that are new be crap? How do they make it into the country. Dont buy Protex would be my recomendation! Buy from china/india for 0.50c each, put in shipping container. Ship to Australia. Unload shipping container, sell to plebs for 10,000% markup? To my knowledge, there's no real regulation of suspension/brake/general auto parts here in Aus, so they don't much care... Even a 50% failure rate = still making money, it's very much buyer beware IMO. (case-in-point - see @deankxf's experience with suspension components) 1 deankxf reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Crebe 16 Posted February 29 I have replaced the new master with another new master a protex and immedatly find out they are shit....or so i am told. I procrastinated and rang and visited brake "experts" and they were of no help. Said "they only can buy the chinese ones as thats all they make now" and asked them to look in stocks for an origonal PBR to recondition. After repeated requests to go and look they said we wouldnt have one! rang a guy that said he has never had any trouble with the masters he sells and i bought it. That item is the Protex. I have fixed the fluid problem out of it and the only thing I am suspicous of is that air may have been in tbe rears somewhere. I am not happy with the performance of these xf brakes on my xr and have had the calipers reconditioned . Have Bendix pads to replace the hardly worn Bendix pads new rotors and every thing on the rear drums. I blead the livin shit out of the lines, vacome this time. Have called Vari brakes and Talked with Ceasar and am looking at six pot brakes on 290 discs so i can change back to 15s from 18s for rego etc. He has to get back to me re any changes in track etc. I dont realy want 6 spot as its way more than I need. 4 pot would be better or even two pot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,292 Posted February 29 53 minutes ago, Crebe said: I have replaced the new master with another new master a protex and immedatly find out they are shit....or so i am told. I procrastinated and rang and visited brake "experts" and they were of no help. Said "they only can buy the chinese ones as thats all they make now" and asked them to look in stocks for an origonal PBR to recondition. After repeated requests to go and look they said we wouldnt have one! rang a guy that said he has never had any trouble with the masters he sells and i bought it. That item is the Protex. I have fixed the fluid problem out of it and the only thing I am suspicous of is that air may have been in tbe rears somewhere. I am not happy with the performance of these xf brakes on my xr and have had the calipers reconditioned . Have Bendix pads to replace the hardly worn Bendix pads new rotors and every thing on the rear drums. I blead the livin shit out of the lines, vacome this time. Have called Vari brakes and Talked with Ceasar and am looking at six pot brakes on 290 discs so i can change back to 15s from 18s for rego etc. He has to get back to me re any changes in track etc. I dont realy want 6 spot as its way more than I need. 4 pot would be better or even two pot. DID YOU BENCH BLEED the master cyl before hooking the lines up? video here it's a must do for new master cyls. XF brakes should be fine, when working. if it's a master issue, it will still be an issue on 6 pots, so you need to confirm that is the ussue. My best method for bleeding brakes now (on my own) is to get a LONG piece of fish tank bubbler hose, or similar clear 1/4 inch ish hose (bunnings even sold it last i bought)and a bit of rubber hose that fits it tight and to the bleeder nipple. and i basically pump the pedal slowly and if the fluid is all brand new you can even return it to the reservoir in a loop and keep pumping until no bubbles show. i'll draw you a fine picture with windows paint if you need an illustration. otherwise you need to keep topping up the reservoir to avoid sucking air when it's low. do this for the 4 corners and it's been the only way i've been certain there's no air in the lines. those suction one's haven't worked for a few people i know, so it's something you can try before going further. A mate of mine just got a 1996 master cyl (original) from a wreck at the wreckers, it was clean so he's just fitted it and it worked. 20yrs ago i was blasted for using second hand good quality ball joints in something compared to new crap we are talking about here. which later i finally tried and they could have caused a serious accident (i tagged you but i'll link here also) 1 SPArKy_Dave reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted February 29 Aussie PBR or Chinese Protex... the master cyl fluid pressure/volume ratio's need to be correct, or they won't provide correct application at the wheels. Drum rear vs Disc rear master cylinders have different internal ratio's. When working correctly, XF brakes (incl drum rears) will almost stand the car on it's nose. I've experienced both good AND bad XF brakes back to back. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
