dvfalcon

1 hour ago, deankdx said:

@Panko used these two products, 
said the autosol wasn't great for final finish, which is what made me go looking for a better all in one ..

stinks and leaves a residue where the bowdens own cleans off easy 

 

i'm going to try the mothers one, it's under $20 at supercheap 

wonder what @hendrixhc uses? i'd have to go back through pages  to find out 

 

 

 

 

Autosol is good truckies have been using it for years. A cheap old school polish for alloy is a mixture of half brass and kero. The go to for the truckies atm is purple polish have not used it personally but gets great reviews

Dale

XF 5spd ain’t much chop, came with the 3.3, from memory same as a sigma. Better off with a 4 Spd. Hunt up a e-series 6 cylinder. This is a bell housing I modded a singlerail bel housing the bottom two are the new

Wiper relay in? LHS of steering column 

Top work have been following this build

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Put it back as it left the factory

It does support the top plenum cover couple of spot welds, directly below there is the pedal box. There is bolts on that area for the wiper motor assembly isn’t there? Support Just going of memory car to far away atm.

Photo stolen from Facebook, one in the build



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6 hours ago, wok said:

 

 

Rob Mills (not the singer) from NRAP (ebay ID)  (aka the old north Ringwood auto parts store) but now located in Nutfield vic,  carries the WASP branded stuff along with other reputable brands (roadsafe etc), and is excellent to deal with either direct or via ebay, prices are good,  always helpful, super quick postage,  so yeah no need to deal with crap products/suppliers

I have used him good price and service

I killed one of my Xe’s Cracking between the upper control. All caused by a new set of tyres and a crap wheel alignment. Every so often would grabbed the front guard. Didn’t fix scraped it my bad.

if you have the time replace as much as you can with doner parts. A few layers make up this area, and it cops a pounding

Dale

As Sparky Dave said

http://grafixunlimited.com.au/ford/falcon/xd_xe_xf_zj_zk_zl/xe

25 minutes ago, deankdx said:

one of My regrets of My XD 351 with the single rail, is selling the setup for $500 odd(just needed a new clutch which i couldn't afford at the time) i had a C10 setup spare so i fitted it..  it had broken  input shaft somehow, which i sold the 4speed setup to cover the cost of repair..
car was boring by comparison, but it was better in traffic which was killing the clutch and My patience with the manual. 

 

have you rang commercial gearboxes in Melton yet?

Single rails are good, stop the gear stick from coming out, the only issue you will have is the selector rail seal.

Dale

As sparky Dave said, the xf plugs were once available off the shelf at Autobarn been a while since I bought them.

Jay Dee auto cables in Baywater sold them as well

Dale

Just for those after the gear stick for the floor. Had trouble sourcing a XE so I ended up at the GT SHOP. To see what the has and if I could use it, the had repo ones for a XC that worked a treat


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This guys I will start chasing one down

Thanks for your help all gear box is in and it moves car not finished enough to drive. Just another question. What floor gear stick boot should I use. T5 in a Xe.

thanks Dale

Thanks every one for there input, I will start with dex111 and. See how it shifts and then add a additive if required

Thanks Dean what additive/ what  is the additive for

Dale

Just a question as some times alternative oils run better than what leaves the factory.

What oil grade should I be useing in a T5. It was originally out of Ed I was told going behind a cleveland

thanks in advance. Dals

Just now, deankdx said:

perfect! good explanation. 

couldn't get My head around it first up this morning that's for sure.

Hard to explain and to hard on the run to draw and post a picture on the run but as you suggested I would run a new wire and join it at the cluster plug and see how he goes.

deankdx

The oil sender works resistance to ground.the ground is though the body of the sender as resistance changes oil pressure gauge changes. This being the case the wire should run from the sender to the cluster with no interference from supply or earth

“””””With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v).””””””””

cluster un plugged and. Wire off the oil sender

depending if multi meter or just a test lamp I would check if +12v is being introduced in to the wire, wire is shorted to +12 volt

Multimeter - place the black lead to earth and the red lead on the wire, if you measure 12v the the wire is shorted to +12volt. 

test lamp -  connect the clip on the lead to earth and touch the probe on the wire, if it lights up the wire is shorted to +12v

“”””””Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)”””””

Multimeter - place the red lead to +12v and the black lead to the wire, if you measure voltage the wire it is shorted to the earth.

testlamp - connect the clip on the lead to the wire and and the the probe to +12v, if it lights up the wire is shorted to earth.

Just keep in mind Xd Xe have oil senders. And some dash looms have less wires(budget/basic loom)

have done many dash changes, instrument panel with no issues only ever had one loom that did’t have all the loom wires.

Do a resistance check from the from the sender to the  to dash plug. 

With it unplugged at both ends, cluster check if it has +12v there( shorted to 12v). Check if is grounded to -12v (shorted to Earth)

18 hours ago, gerg said:

Mostly F-trucks yeah, but some passenger models got the 240 I think.

As far as I know, locally assembled F-trucks got our 250 (and the V8s of course), but not the 240/300.

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2 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

does anyone actually have a 300 engine ? or where would you start to look in australia ?

Did these come in f100’s

4 hours ago, Daf said:

I've drilled out the original, stuck a 4mm bolt thru and fixed the original. Good as gold.

 

The plastic retainer clips are also different so when I did fit the new one in and lifted the rod up (yes there is some slack) it just popped straight out under pressure as there was 'nothing' holding it in place. 

 

The guy at Rare spares also told me that the rod would be "adjustable", however it's not.  Inside the door the rod goes down and simply hooks onto another lever on the inside of the lock mechanism, nothing adjustable in there.

 

Are all doors across the model range the same??  Maybe GL door handles are different to ESP to Fairlanes??

The top original handle in your  first photo the plastic clip that holds the rod on is from a xf (rod has a90degreee bend in it. Xd/Xe rod had a S shape bend in it and goes through the eyelet grommet that came that came on the new one. I would say the hole drilled in the new arm is to large for the xf attachment. You could always make up anew rod but I would just repair you old one