dvfalcon

As Dean said first gear is the only difference. They don't like to much of a hard time you will rip the gear stick thread out the top of the gearbox, or break the selector fork. They also hard on the seal on the selector shaft as they are all well worn. there are different versions of the output housing on other model cars

Dale

On 4/12/2025 at 1:38 PM, Free.51 said:

Cheers Dale, I might just experiment with soapy water & wet dry & maybe autosol

it is more a laminate skin on the outside almost like a tape and not to durable i have a NOS at home and it has pukkered on storage and creased the layer

Dale

On 4/11/2025 at 5:55 AM, Free.51 said:

This is the correct D shape bumper trim for XD ZJ ZK FC FD ZL FE front bumpers that I got from global trim. I don't really want to spend $80 again if it's gonna go dull & develop cracks again. But if anyone knows how to bring the shine back that would be awesome.

global trim is the only place doing that style as i am aware, once the shine has gone thats it. nature of the beast. 

assume you are talking about the trim  around the  light and grill, have you tried some metal polish.

Dale

11 hours ago, deankxf said:

i remember them being all the same size, because i've removed them on several cars, or just run them in the front only to tip the seat base back a bit. 

basically the size of a new nolathane sway bar link bush from memory. 

sway bar link would be close for sure

as sprky dave said there is a dimple in the door and 32mm

Tags are a bit plain to the a standard plate a dean said, plates where near the shock tower not the firewall. NZ may had different or may just be someone mad up. that colour you would be better with colour match, to many variables for a a code mix.

My first point of call would be custom sunroof in maidstone. Have not been there for years but if the original owner is still there Peter he would no if seals are still available or not.

Dale

can't say i have done it but would bet it is he same column. back in the day i changed many XD/E columns to xg tibbe locks and surrounds

On 9/22/2023 at 5:14 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

i looked on the other rear door and that rod goes to that white plastic turning thing,but something aint right ,in that plastic thing the handle rod is meant to be on notch 2 and that one in the pictures goes on notch 1,so ?

it is all a compromise with the  length of the rods  and travel you require .

get one handle working  and then introduce the second handle

the rods may need to be shorten, I normally bend them to and put a small S shape in it

if it has not not got enough travel take some of the kink out to lengthen it.

make shore the kiddy lock is not on and the rods don't fight each other and lockup

i have access to a right rear door I will check when I get home if it helps

you will most likely find the selector shaft is worn. they all are. 20 years ago i would change out a single rails on a regular basis to 2 reasons . selector rail shaft or ir the notch in the selector fork. 

speedo sender out

remove the roll pin from the selector 

take off remote and ext housing

Dale  

if you are having speedo issue  check the Dash earth

As Dean said check the 3 wires running to to the sender. Another issue can be if the loom running to the gearbox, if t is not tied up it can rub up near the bel housing. Rub through causing intermitent short.

You can take the speedo out of the  econogauge dash and put it in the spack dash. 

XD to XE s spack dash have 2 differences.

XD have 2 different oil gauges so XD early oil gauge is different to Late XD and XE, the resistance changes with a differnt sensor

And of Course Tach 6cyl to V8

Dale

7 hours ago, bear351c said:

Yeah, different manufacturers had different sizes of hex head. They used to sell a plug stamped OS, for "oversize", but haven't seen one for ages. Yours may have well been drilled and tapped the next size up, 'cos the thread was stripped, look up the sizes for Commodore/Kingswood or maybe British cars. Easy fix would be either a new sump or a helicoil. 

 

Cheaper to scrounge the wreckers for the next sized sump plug, I reckon. 

 am thinking it may have been made bigger. I put the motor inthe car in a hurry. Did the drive around at the time with not much luck to source  new one.  here i go again

thanks guys

9 minutes ago, burnnotice1000 said:

Yes dale it's only the bolt head that is different I have come across that same thing,thread should be the same

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this one must have been tapped out already then as it is bigger

thanks

Does any one knows if the sump plug thread on the Cleveland is larger on the later models
Most the info on the net say it is 1/2inch. The ones on eBay that state size say 1/2 inch. The one in mine is larger? Trying the get a new one. I always thought they were all the same Cleveland crossflow. The socket I use is 3/4. I have another Cleveland her that takes a 7/8 socket?
Thanks Dale


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On 10/8/2021 at 3:02 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

a zk fairlane would be ok cause it has the firewall in the normal v8 position,the xf pushes in a bit more that makes the heater non usable ,and for a family car i think i would need it working,and for a roady as well,seems zl is quite easy to find and still an ok car,but i need a earlyer model where a c4 t bar fits spot on and prefer xe sedan or zk i will consider most models,even a xe wagon would be a good machine jacked up high at the rear and big duel exhaust ect,,,and of corse raised white lettering on the tyres.

zl floor is the same as xe, it only changed in late xf utes and vans

Plugs are different but wire colour codes should be all the same

XE  tail lights have always been the preferred, hence the shortage of XD. When the Taiwan replacement parts started to flood the market with the likes of SSS most XD were becoming XE and F’s. A V8 later looking Car. You could get after marked XD but demand not there hence there demise.

Dale

10 hours ago, gerg said:

Yeah other than on here, it's hard to find an oz-specific topic on this that is 100% accurate, but I did see something on ICE ignition's site about the smaller shaft being used on the earlier blocks, and they say that with theirs it doesn't matter as they have a lower needle bearing. This, they say eliminates the need for support by the drilling in the block (so their dizzys work on both), and also if the block is actually the right size but worn, that doesn't matter either.

 

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The early block distributed has the larger shaft, out side diameter. It is actually a imperial diameter 1/2”. The black block outside diameter is metric 12.5mm and smaller. The smaller diameter in the later block enables you to use them in the early block, chestnut mentioned that the can fog out them out quick. To overcome this you can machine a extra bush in the base of the distributor to support the shaft and stop run out. In the mid nineties when you could still by new Bosch distrubutor ice ignition did this mod, supplied new and modded for around $600. Now the do there own ignition ignition. How the have evolved, ignition have come along way, technology and price

Dale

On 5/30/2021 at 7:16 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

i have this idea of making my own hot tank or rust removal tank out of a 44 gallon drum or a big steel bin from bunnings,the blocks i bought will all need a really good clean and surface rust removal,but buying say enough chemical to half fill a drum is very expensive,only other way might be doing a deal at the machine shop to dip 8 blocks in his tank ? 

Check out the  haulass Garage Hot tank, a Billy Bob gem

i can't remember what's inside the door but i think it's a plate with captive nuts hung over a hook. 
so you might be able to also make the plate wider in there as dvfalcon said above. i've never done that.
 
few people have cut it out and welded the door section back together, but if you don't have a welder this plate works well enough

When lining up the doors take
the striker off, I use 2 x 10mm window packers placed on the sill, sit the door on top in position and do up. It puts you in the ball park and adjust from there. A plate like dean made will last for years, if you can make one for inside the door as well so it sandwich the door between. Guard off is the best but just the inner guard will do. Window packers below but at the end of the day anything 10mm thick


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As Dean said Ben at global trim would be my first call.

also contact the seller in this ebay link he puts up Nos material all the time

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EB-FALCON-XR8-SVO-S-PACK-GENUINE-FORD-NOS-SEAT-MATERIAL-TEAR-DROP-/143870251902?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286

DGN with what the call the Tibet Lock will most probably be the same xf and earlier work differently 

c

Dale

3 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

where can you find a 300 i have never come across one.

Pre cross flow 6 cylinder f series, Canadian motor