Jump to content

dvfalcon

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    377

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by dvfalcon

  2. Posted

    On 9/22/2023 at 5:14 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

    i looked on the other rear door and that rod goes to that white plastic turning thing,but something aint right ,in that plastic thing the handle rod is meant to be on notch 2 and that one in the pictures goes on notch 1,so ?

    it is all a compromise with the  length of the rods  and travel you require .

    get one handle working  and then introduce the second handle

    the rods may need to be shorten, I normally bend them to and put a small S shape in it

    if it has not not got enough travel take some of the kink out to lengthen it.

    make shore the kiddy lock is not on and the rods don't fight each other and lockup

     

    i have access to a right rear door I will check when I get home if it helps

    CHESTNUTXE and deankxf reacted to this

  4. Posted

    if you are having speedo issue  check the Dash earth

     

    As Dean said check the 3 wires running to to the sender. Another issue can be if the loom running to the gearbox, if t is not tied up it can rub up near the bel housing. Rub through causing intermitent short.

     

    You can take the speedo out of the  econogauge dash and put it in the spack dash. 

     

    XD to XE s spack dash have 2 differences.

    XD have 2 different oil gauges so XD early oil gauge is different to Late XD and XE, the resistance changes with a differnt sensor

    And of Course Tach 6cyl to V8

     

    Dale

    deankxf reacted to this

  5. Posted

    7 hours ago, bear351c said:

    Yeah, different manufacturers had different sizes of hex head. They used to sell a plug stamped OS, for "oversize", but haven't seen one for ages. Yours may have well been drilled and tapped the next size up, 'cos the thread was stripped, look up the sizes for Commodore/Kingswood or maybe British cars. Easy fix would be either a new sump or a helicoil. 

     

    Cheaper to scrounge the wreckers for the next sized sump plug, I reckon. 

     am thinking it may have been made bigger. I put the motor inthe car in a hurry. Did the drive around at the time with not much luck to source  new one.  here i go again

    thanks guys

     

    burnnotice1000 and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  6. Posted

    9 minutes ago, burnnotice1000 said:

    Yes dale it's only the bolt head that is different I have come across that same thing,thread should be the same

    Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk
     

    this one must have been tapped out already then as it is bigger

    thanks

    CHESTNUTXE, burnnotice1000 and Outback Jack reacted to this

  7. Posted

    Does any one knows if the sump plug thread on the Cleveland is larger on the later models
    Most the info on the net say it is 1/2inch. The ones on eBay that state size say 1/2 inch. The one in mine is larger? Trying the get a new one. I always thought they were all the same Cleveland crossflow. The socket I use is 3/4. I have another Cleveland her that takes a 7/8 socket?
    Thanks Dale


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    CHESTNUTXE and burnnotice1000 reacted to this

  8. Posted

    On 10/8/2021 at 3:02 PM, CHESTNUTXE said:

    a zk fairlane would be ok cause it has the firewall in the normal v8 position,the xf pushes in a bit more that makes the heater non usable ,and for a family car i think i would need it working,and for a roady as well,seems zl is quite easy to find and still an ok car,but i need a earlyer model where a c4 t bar fits spot on and prefer xe sedan or zk i will consider most models,even a xe wagon would be a good machine jacked up high at the rear and big duel exhaust ect,,,and of corse raised white lettering on the tyres.

    zl floor is the same as xe, it only changed in late xf utes and vans

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  10. Posted

    XE  tail lights have always been the preferred, hence the shortage of XD. When the Taiwan replacement parts started to flood the market with the likes of SSS most XD were becoming XE and F’s. A V8 later looking Car. You could get after marked XD but demand not there hence there demise.

     

    Dale

    roKWiz and fotz reacted to this

  11. Posted

    10 hours ago, gerg said:

    Yeah other than on here, it's hard to find an oz-specific topic on this that is 100% accurate, but I did see something on ICE ignition's site about the smaller shaft being used on the earlier blocks, and they say that with theirs it doesn't matter as they have a lower needle bearing. This, they say eliminates the need for support by the drilling in the block (so their dizzys work on both), and also if the block is actually the right size but worn, that doesn't matter either.

     

    Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

     

     

     

    The early block distributed has the larger shaft, out side diameter. It is actually a imperial diameter 1/2”. The black block outside diameter is metric 12.5mm and smaller. The smaller diameter in the later block enables you to use them in the early block, chestnut mentioned that the can fog out them out quick. To overcome this you can machine a extra bush in the base of the distributor to support the shaft and stop run out. In the mid nineties when you could still by new Bosch distrubutor ice ignition did this mod, supplied new and modded for around $600. Now the do there own ignition ignition. How the have evolved, ignition have come along way, technology and price

    Dale

    gerg and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  12. Posted

    On 5/30/2021 at 7:16 AM, CHESTNUTXE said:

    i have this idea of making my own hot tank or rust removal tank out of a 44 gallon drum or a big steel bin from bunnings,the blocks i bought will all need a really good clean and surface rust removal,but buying say enough chemical to half fill a drum is very expensive,only other way might be doing a deal at the machine shop to dip 8 blocks in his tank ? 

    Check out the  haulass Garage Hot tank, a Billy Bob gem

     

    deankxf reacted to this

  13. Posted

    i can't remember what's inside the door but i think it's a plate with captive nuts hung over a hook. 
    so you might be able to also make the plate wider in there as dvfalcon said above. i've never done that.
     
    few people have cut it out and welded the door section back together, but if you don't have a welder this plate works well enough

    In side the door is like a dog bone type plate capsulated in some retainers with captive nuts to allow the door to move in and out I did remove that.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    deankxf reacted to this

  14. Posted

    When lining up the doors take
    the striker off, I use 2 x 10mm window packers placed on the sill, sit the door on top in position and do up. It puts you in the ball park and adjust from there. A plate like dean made will last for years, if you can make one for inside the door as well so it sandwich the door between. Guard off is the best but just the inner guard will do. Window packers below but at the end of the day anything 10mm thick


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

    IMG_3472.png

  25. Posted

    1 hour ago, deankdx said:

    @Panko used these two products, 
    said the autosol wasn't great for final finish, which is what made me go looking for a better all in one ..

    stinks and leaves a residue where the bowdens own cleans off easy 

     

    i'm going to try the mothers one, it's under $20 at supercheap 

    wonder what @hendrixhc uses? i'd have to go back through pages  to find out 

     

     

    8023637_autosol_metal_polish_with_sponge

     

     

    BOMP_250ml.png?20200612130038

    Autosol is good truckies have been using it for years. A cheap old school polish for alloy is a mixture of half brass and kero. The go to for the truckies atm is purple polish have not used it personally but gets great reviews

    Dale

    deankxf and Free.51 reacted to this
×