Valvebouncer

If you are going to do this properly buy a permaseal mlsr head gasket. The mlsr gasket is designed for turbo or nitrous applications. I’d go head studs rather than bolts too but if you are going bolts don’t cheap out.

G’day Searley, definitely use a permaseal AU mls head gasket and follow the torque specs the gasket comes with, NOT ones in a workshop manual. I use permaseal head bolts too, they will have the part number HS041 stamped in the top of them. Anyone willing to do that gains my trust. Genuine ford ones are no longer available. I personally don’t like Nason as I have seen some of their head bolts fail like the originals and some stretching but that is my personal experience. The choice is up to you. Be careful with the eBay Seller’s, I couldn’t find one that would package a permaseal head gasket and permaseal bolts, all I found packaged in Nason head bolts so just ask the question before purchasing.

I wouldn’t go any more than 6psi on a standard motor unless you step up to an lpg AU motor that has stronger rods. EitherT3 or T4 . Go grab a secondhand on off a ba onwards from a wrecker

Most likely it’s out of an ef falcon so it should have a coil pack and crank trigger and sensor above the balancer. If it has a distributor it’s an early el falcon. When looking at the front of the engine, the intake will be on the right side and below that around cylinder no3 there should be your oil pressure switch. Just run a t piece out of that to feed the turbo. For the drain you can run it straight into the side of the sump.

Are you referring to the gauze filter that goes on the pick up?

There will be 2 numbers before it. 88, 91, 94, 96 etc. sohc? What intake manifold is on it? Log or bbm? Photos would help

What model did your motor come out of ?

The AWD Territory’s are hell on earth to change a starter. The front diff sits right underneath the starter motor

I’ve been to heaps of territories and falcons around 2006 models, they must have had a batch of duds, no click, nothing. Just dead in the water. All others seem fairly strong though except for lpg powered ba onwards that are cranked too long on start up.

Hi searley, you’ll get the hang of quoting on the forum soon ! In all seriousness, most of use have been playing around with these old shot boxes for too many years, it’s our passion! I myself am a mechanic and have quite a few friends that have the same ford addiction as myself so we learn off each other and help each other. Many hands makes light work as the saying goes. Also working in our favour is that Ford is either lazy or really smart depending on which way you look at it. For example: they used the same tailgate on the falcon Utes from the xa in 1972 up until the end of the xh in 1999. Things change slowly so a lot of parts are interchangeable between models, it’s all trial and error. Once you get known for your addiction people will start feeding it by giving you their old car, ask me how I know this! As for your question on coil pack v single coil for the sake of ease of conversion you can stick with a single coil and distributor, just buy a quality coil ( think Bosch), it will last longer. Converting to a coil pack will be a massive effort. You will need either an ef or au computer along with the entire wiring harness as there is an additional row of output pins on the computer to control the coil pack. Not to mention headaches with the smartlock system. A j3 chip to get around it would keep the a/c compressor constantly engaged with au falcon computer but you would get sequential injection and cylinder shutdown technology ( for overheating protection ) as a bonus.

Your the closest thing we have to a wizard, so learn to live with your new title!! AU sump into a xh/ef-el k frame is a tight fit like you said the sump will have to be cut and shut where as on an xg it can just be ground down to clear.

You need to be brutal, lift with the crane until the whole car starts to lift and even then it’s a tight wiggle to get it out. You have to swing it side to side to work it over the mains caps.

Don’t know what to say, I’ve done it multiple times in my career.

You can pull the sump out without removing the engine. Drop the sway bar, take out the long engine mount bolts, and engines be fan. Lift the engine from the front with an engine crane. There is just enough room to slide the sump out

Series 3 smart shield uses a carbon chip in the key and an inductive pick up around the barrel, not an optical sensor. Your thinking of smartlock which finished at the end of au series 1. If it’s not registering the key the key light in the instrument cluster will flash. If it starts and keeps flashing DO NOT TURN IT OFF you get three attempts before it locks down with smart shield, after that it needs to go to Ford. You probably blew a fuse when welding. You should disconnect the battery and earth out the body when welding on a canbus vehicle.

I should add that what I wrote above is to be done after all fuses and relays have been checked- assumptions are dangerous but I am assuming your auto sparky did this.

So I guess you mean the injectors aren’t pulsing on crank? If so check your earths, check the main harness plug on the inlet manifold between cylinders 5 & 6 ( check at this plug for pulse as well). You will need a mood light or LED test light to check for pulse, DO NOT USE A CONVENTIONAL TEST LIGHT!. After that check for pulse at the ecu. What do you mean by the ecu was reset? If smart shield cuts in it won’t crank, no spark or injector pulse.

Not a physical difference but helps to figure out where the block came from, cortina engine numbers start with CG whereas falcons were JG or JH.

You might find it easier getting a whole car. There are plenty of flogged out ea/ebs you could pick up cheaper than buying all the individual bits from wreckers

As Thom said. The only other difference is the block, the bolt holes for the reinforcement brackets that run from the side of the block down to the bottom of the trans bellhousing have been filled and it’s different around the top where the p/s pump go. Nothing that can’t be fixed though. I’d keep the AU sump if you can.

Your so polite! You will find that many machine shops are doing less and less these days and unfortunately it’s growing. Try finding a decent crank grinder at a reasonable price in Sydney, you almost have to look outside the city. Yes, you will have to remove the engine for the block to be machined and all the internals too. The back two bolts were probably still holding tension and the others had stretched, hence why they were still tight- they still had clamping pressure. Good luck with the build, feel free to post photos and ask more questions about anything you are unsure of. Better to ask a question that you think is silly than bugger something up!

Ok. Firstly to clear up the misunderstanding, the only reason ef/early el and xh ohc blew head gaskets from factory were because of defective head bolts. The head of the bolt would break off. Ford themselves took responsibility for this back in the day and did a recall to replace head bolts before their clamping pressure released from the head breaking off and blowing the head gasket as a result. I run a mls (multi layer steel) head gasket in my ute with the block decked 5 thou and 20 thou off the head. As Chris and Dean have said, you must have the head serviced and machined flat. Also you need to check the block, if there is pitting around the coolant galleries it will need to have the face machined. An mls head gasket has no give like a graphite head gasket. The mls one is actually designed so that the outer 2 layers will adhere to the head and block then as it heats and expands (remember aluminium head will expand more than an iron block) then once cool return to its normal seated position. Ford did this so they could run cylinder shut down technology in the case of over heating in au falcons. Go buy yourself a good quality permaseal mls head gasket and be prepared to pay. Buy permaseal head bolts also. Any company willing to cast the part number in the head is worth using. I sprayed a light coating of hylomar on the head gasket before fitting. Follow the torque specs that come with the gasket. They are different from the graphite ones. A Barra conversion into a xh is harder than all other x series because it runs a ef/el sub frame with less clearance for the alloy sump.

If all your lifters started rattling at once you may have an oil pressure problem

At least your honest. It’s a bugger that it happened though.

I was wondering why you wanted a Holley. There is a really good thread somewhere on this forum on how to get the Weber carb to flow better and what the biggest restrictions were.