Valvebouncer

No worries. I searched everywhere, I couldn’t find the spare brackets I had.

I can’t like that post unless......your selling it to me!

Sorry for the late reply, I couldn’t find your thread for a while! Passenger side Drivers side Honestly though, I’d keep the au radiator if it fits. Mine had some weird bogandore radiator that didn’t have the right side inlet and outlets.

It’s on top of your throttle body held down by 10mm bolts. From what you were saying this is a new fault since changing the inlet manifold, I highly doubt it’s a computer problem if you disconnected the battery. UNLESS you have a prexisting fault such as a leaking capacitor so the computer wasn’t able to hold a memory when you disconnected the battery. Honestly it sounds like someone yanked on the manifold too hard to get access to the gasket and pulled apart the wiring harness internally.

Either the idle speed motor isn’t plugged in properly and working or you have a vacuum leak. Perhaps a loose vacuum hose for the heater controls?

I’ll have a dig around, I may have a spare step. Otherwise I’ll measure up the ones on my ute

Here, this may help. Mine also had the wrong radiator and hoses when I bought it too so ignore those but it does show the brackets and placement.

Nice work mate. Nothing like kicking off a Friday with a foreign order [emoji108]

I personally don’t know, someone else might. Why don’t you give it a crack and see what fits? Let us know how you go.

Yes, they prevent getting my nickname [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]. Heavier springs are to help over come boost pushing on the back of the valve and holding it open after the lobe has passed.

It’s probably either rust around the window like you said or the sealant has dried out shrunken and cracked allowing water in

True. Knowing my luck the wind would blow it straight back to my place.

Drain it on the neighbours lawn?

Go speak to Jack at Kc’s engine reconditioning in castle hill.

Only comment I have is keep going! I’m in the same boat as you, mechanic by trade but diffs and gearboxes/transmissions are a specialty area which I only know bits and pieces about. If you need any info from workshop manuals let me know, I have half a library

Awesome mate!

I could be wrong but I thought the xh firewall was still the same as all x series Fords?? If so it will fit. You will need a factory manual computer too or a j3 chip to get it to idle properly ( you can manually adjust the idle solenoid and disconnect it but this will make for a rough idle when the a/c cuts in ) If that xh panel van is a factory manual and still a solid vehicle I’d think twice before tearing it apart. Have a look at the prices panel vans are pulling these days. You could sell it whole, pay for your conversion and buy a turbo kit too.

I just bought myself a wasp brand pitman arm then realised 2 things. 1) my puller is too small so I’ve bought another one 2) the kit they sell with ball joints also includes a pitman arm so I’ll end up with a spare!

Oh Greg, I was having a laugh, I meant your feet!! We once had an apprentice at Kenworth whose boots were worn on the inside from dragging his feet so he had tonnes of negative camber so naturally he ended up with the nickname of “datto “ after the 1600 when lowered [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

You need a wheel alignment. The amount of toe out you have is insane!![emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

That’s normal. The outer sides bond to the head and block then the middle layers can more and slide as the engine heats up and in some cases overheats ( over expands ) but doesn’t blow out the gasket.

Replace the battery if it hasn’t already been done.

Not as far as I know, it was all or nothing

Xh was different to other Fords. There are 4 harnesses in total. 2x6 cylinder, 2x8 cylinder. You either had everything or nothing. If you optioned abs you also got cruise control and airbag.

Being an older car it might be worthwhile to run a new earth cable from the battery to the engine block.