Stu5766

Also, they need to have the OBD plug bridges out to set the correct timing & for the ECU to learn what's happening.

I only mentioned this issue cause Gromit asked if NA & turbo motors were the same. I've only owned one, so don't know heaps about them, but logic would say that comp would have to be lower on a turbo engine. This might be achieved by simply fitting a thicker head gasket. I'm not really sure. All the 6cyl lads will know.

Wouldn't Comp ratio be different from a turbo motor & a NA motor?? I've heard that an Egas bottom end is the way to go because they had a stronger bottom end to ease the detonation issues that the Egas motor suffered from.

I don't know stuff all about bikes, but the ECU might be registering the extra air coming in & richening the fuel up to compensate.

I'd see if the brake joint could secure the drums to the bed of the flywheel grinder & just take the face down 2mm.

How much advance are you running??

He said it's a straight gas mixer with MSD ignition. Where did you purchase the radiator from?? Is it a reputable brand or an eBay Chinese radiator?

Get a set of arp extractor studs. That way you can slip the gasket on & slide the extractor in & over the studs & chuck the nuts on. That's my setup & I wouldn't go back to bolts again! Preferably on a hoist, jack the motor off the mounts as far as you possibly can without hurting anything. ( your mate probably would have a wind up stand or at worst a transmission jack ). Feed the extractor in from under the car, you will need to get the starter motor out of the way.

Is it fixed now?

As far as I know, it's just to keep contaminants out of the bellhousing. Back in the 79' repco trail, one of the works cortinas was in a good position until the clutch started slipping. When Colin bond crawled under to have a look, there was no sandwich plate & it had filled the bellhousing with sand, mud, etc. He says to Murray carter, " where's the sandwich plate, the clutch is full of sand ". Murray carter replys " I never fit those to my race cars "!! It was never an issue, cause Murray was a circuit racer, not a rally driver.

Hey mate,I reckon the best thing would be to give CamTech in Sydney a call. They are pretty switched on.

I would consider pulling the steering box out of the way. Being a manual box will most definatly make it easier. A set of try Y's will slip straight in without a problem.

I fitted 4 into 1's on my XD, with power steering. I had to jack the motor of the mounts & also had the front on stands reasonably high. There was more grunting, sweating & swearing than a prison shower block.

I was doing about 96mph at 4300rpm through the traps on the same tyres. I haven't had it down with the 3.9's to see if anything has improved yet.

I've been playing with my clevo again & are just after some feed back. It's a 351 that is 30thou over, 4MA crank, standard rods. Hv mellings oil pump, solid balancer. It runs 2v closed chamber heads with bigger valves, I've done port work around the bowls & guides & also match ported the inlet & exhaust. It's running a comp XE274 cam with roller rockers. It's got a full MSD dizzy locked at 35 degrees, blasted 2 coil & MSD leads. It's also got an RPM air gap manifold with a 1 inch spacer, 750DP Holley running a proform HP center. Exhaust is a set of 4 into 1 extractors going to a full mandrel bent twin 2.5 inch system. Behind the engine I have a standard ratio toploader with a exedy sports tuff clutch & hurst Indy shifter with an XR8 alloy tailshaft going to an XH borgwarner LSD with 3.9 gears. I haven't had a chance to really get in & open this thing up. Just after any feed back on what I could expect & anything that I should have done different. Cheers stu.

It's an XD Menice, it has 27" tyres. I did some calculations & worked out my speedo is not accurate. When I was doing 4000rpm, I was doing about 132km/h. According to many ratio calculators I will be pulling 5500rpm at 180km/h ( 112mph ). Which is where I want to be at the end of the strip.

I'm running a 245/60/15 on the rear now. It's unlikely that I could fit a taller tyre under the back of it. It always performed well with the 3.45's, but I was trying for more acceleration down the strip. Just goes to show that a shorter diff isn't always better.

Gerg & wagoon were spot on about the diff ratio. Once I was able to get out & drive it, 1st gear was about 45km/h & sitting on 4000rpm at 110km/h. It's going to run out of gears going down the 1/4 mile. I have a couple options. Refit the 3.45 crown wheel & pinion, or sell the whole diff as a 3.9 LSD for anyone who wants a leaf sprung falcon diff.

Unless I am interpreting it the wrong way, the back space would become 4.75". You are bring the wheel out, so it won't sit as far back under the arch. The back space I believe is measured from the rear of the wheel hub center & by adding a spacer, you are decreasing the space between the center & the outer edge. Also be careful of spacers. Massively illegal & can implicate your insurance. Sorry for the long winded reply.

I did something similar to dads XD when I was a similar age.I gave the clevo a massive rev & snapped the timing chain!

I know what your saying revhead, but in comparison to quite a few cylinder heads guys I have known through the industry, they have taken them down even further than I have.

Here is a pic of the inlet & exhaust roughed out.Don't have a pic of the finished result unfortunately

We have done the conversion a few times. The latest evolution was a single rail bellhousing with the top bolts drilled & tapped & bottom bolts drilled & tapped using 2 fabricated clamps holding the bottom of the box to the bellhousing. Also, as probably already mentioned, the T5 snout has been turned down approx 1.5mm. So the bellhousing can still accept a single rail if required.

Try Penrite 80w140 LSD oil. I have that in my 78 series Borg Warner & not a peep out of it.