Bob Valdez

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I have these for the XF. The lower arm is a reinforced stocky, with the spherical bushing. The upper is for the std coil set-up, using the corrected top balljoint and Shelby drop. I'm using the Open Tracer Racing delrin front strut pivot balls, instead of the urethane style, as it puts less stress on the bracket. Using a 1/2" bolt isn't an issue, one can drill it for the 14mm (9/16") bolt if one desires, as I have, plus I'm using the fixed square camber plates they supply to stop the pivot bolt moving under cornering, or minor bumps with those who won't give way when I dive under them in the corners. I also have the a Baer bump steer kit, plus solid tie rod adjusters so I don't have the same happen like Dick Johnson at Forest Elbow in 1983.😉

I have these for the XF. The lower arm is a reinforced stocky, with the spherical bushing. The upper is for the std coil set-up, using the corrected top balljoint and Shelby drop. I'm using the Open Tracer Racing delrin front strut pivot balls, instead of the urethane style, as it puts less stress on the bracket. Using a 1/2" bolt isn't an issue, one can drill it for the 14mm (9/16") bolt if one desires, as I have, plus I'm using the fixed square camber plates they supply to stop the pivot bolt moving under cornering, or minor bumps with those who won't give way when I dive under them in the corners. I also have the a Baer bump steer kit, plus solid tie rod adjusters so I don't have the same happen like Dick Johnson at Forest Elbow in 1983.😉

That actually is the next thing to do, and the last. If it doesn't come good, it will go out the back until I have more time, or go to a new home.

Yes, fitted a brand new set of injectors. I even swapped a few around on Sunday (I didn't include that in my post), just for shits and giggles, however, samy same. I'm making up a jumper to take the pulse direct from the plug at the ECU to the injector, bypassing the entire harness. I just have to isolate the injector power feed and the #1 wire pos on the ECU plug to tap into and run the injector in remote mode. I'll also run it with the belt off, to make sure there is zero interference from the alternator. If it still misses it's got to be the driver in the ECU which grounds each injector in the correct sequence.
When the weather allows, I'll get into it this week, as I'll have to collect the XF from the farm and start work on that.

Mine misses from the get go.  The HLA's are working, oil is flowing from their bleed holes, valve springs in #1 are good, no sticking valves. Cam lobes and rockers and bearings are perfect. However, the spark plug is clean, whilst the others are sooty from the short running on cold start it's been doing lately. No valve gear noise of any kind, so that rules out the rocker gear.
 
Your oily plugs are likely bad or broken valve stem seals, quite common in crossflows. You also could have an exhaust valve seat recessing, taking up the lash adjustment in the lifter and holding the valve off the seat as it heats up and expands. Mine? Still working on it.

Mine misses from the get go.  The HLA's are working, oil is flowing from their bleed holes, valve springs in #1 are good, no sticking valves. Cam lobes and rockers and bearings are perfect. However, the spark plug is clean, whilst the others are sooty from the short running on cold start it's been doing lately. No valve gear noise of any kind, so that rules out the rocker gear.
 
Your oily plugs are likely bad or broken valve stem seals, quite common in crossflows. You also could have an exhaust valve seat recessing, taking up the lash adjustment in the lifter and holding the valve off the seat as it heats up and expands. Mine? Still working on it.

Well, I've had a day of unusual results. Got Ol' Blue out of the garage, warmed her up and pulled spark plugs, fuel pump fuse and coil pack plug and started the compression test. For correct results, the engine should be at operating temp, the throttle needs to be wide open and the test gauge accurate. This one is brand new (and a good one I've used else where), so away we went. My brother got the key and accelerator duties, with Dad watching on, I started at #6.
#6: 155 psi
#5: 120 psi (squirted oil into the cylinder and 145 psi). I'll attribute this to a broken top ring.
#4: 145 psi
#3: 145 psi
#2: 150 psi
#1: 165 psi
The rocker cover was removed and the valve train inspected thoroughly for loose/broken rockers, broken valve springs and/ or sticking valves: Nada. All is as it should be and very clean (thanks to Dad's meticulous schedule of servicing every 10k without fail). At 335,xxx km, the compressions are about what I'd expect, except for #1.  Next, put it all back together, it still misses on #1. Put a clean plug in #1 lead, started the engine and we have sparks. Put a globe in #1 injector plug and we have light, but when re-assembled, it still misses in #1. Disconnected the alternator to do the diode failure test (again) and it still misses. However, due to a lack of time, we ended the session there, packed up and went to my block to have a walk and see if we could whistle up a fox or two.
 
So, the last 3 things I will do is:
1/ Completely disconnect the alternator (it does not appear to be charging, either) and remove the belt to make sure that any AC current frequency cannot be any possible interference.
2/ Fit a set of normal OHC spark plugs.
3/ Bypass the #1 injector wiring in the engine harness directly from the injector to the ECU right at the plug with a 2 core to eliminate any broken/intermittent connections there and see what happens.
 
If the miss is gone, I'll replace the harness/alternator/whatever to fix the issue and get the car back together, either to sell or use.
If the miss prevails, then I'm going to split the intake manifold and see if there is an obstruction in the intake or the bypass butterfly hasn't fallen into and blocked the intake tract (or something stupid like that, which might account for the unusually higher comp pressure and/or the miss). If I find nothing wrong, the engine and harness will go to junk and I'll put a V8 and 4 speed into it and go club racing. It will be carbed or use a FiTech with a seperate wiring harness, so the gremlin won't bother me again.
I can't see the dash or it's harness being a factor in this, because there are only a few critical wires in the ECU to dash connector and without them, it will not run at all. The others are for water temp, tacho and oil pressure, TC enable (disconnected anyway), ECU enable from the BCM and that's about it.
When I have time during the week, I'll try again and then make a decision.
Cheers all.

So, today I decided to try a trick I learned from a guy who used to do my radiators years ago. I put my radiator tester on with an extension on the header tank and filled it completely with water after I warmed up the engine. I started the engine and sure enough, bubbles formed in the top of the tube. Dad and the Bro are visiting on Sunday, so we will do a complete compression test and check the valvetrain, but I'm pretty sure it has a leaking head gasket in #1 and possibly into #2. The bubbles and the fact that it won't build pressure in the cooling system point to that logical conclusion. If that is the case, the engine will come out to repair it, go back in to be tested and if that cures the problem, it's going up for sale and the 302 and 5 speed from the XR8 are going in. 

It's home now and that miss is really bad. No way this is electrical. Driving it on and off the trailer, it shook and carried on like a dog shitting razor blades. I suspect this is likely to be a head gasket blown between 2 cylinders, as my brother's Bronco was very similar and had blown the head gasket between #1 and #2. When I get time, I'll do a full comp test and leak down and pull the valve cover to have a look why there is bugger all oil around the rocker gear. The comp test will give some indication as to WTF is going on.

It's home now and that miss is really bad. No way this is electrical. Driving it on and off the trailer, it shook and carried on like a dog shitting razor blades. I suspect this is likely to be a head gasket blown between 2 cylinders, as my brother's Bronco was very similar and had blown the head gasket between #1 and #2. When I get time, I'll do a full comp test and leak down and pull the valve cover to have a look why there is bugger all oil around the rocker gear. The comp test will give some indication as to WTF is going on.

Probably some idiot was banging on it with a hammer/spanner to make it work and damaged it.
 
All the injectors in the AU are brand new, and I made sure to fit them spotlessly clean and correct in both orientation and alignment. The nodes indicate that they are firing from the ECU, it's just that intermittent #1 spark and injector 'fault' that comes up.

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Absolutely. Most of the 'new' parts were fitted by others. Mine are the injectors, coil pack and CTS in the back of the head. The others (ECU, etc) are parts from a known running engine in working order. Because much of the wiring 'testing was not done by me, I have to reassure myself that it was done correctly. I've run nodes on the injector plugs, they all fire correctly, only #1 intermittently does not flash. I have spark at #1, again intermittently, but spark none the less. All the sensors check out, according to the factory resistance values, including many of the old replaced ones. My biggest issue is I haven't have the time I needed to delve deeper into the whole problem. All the info I have on what was done is second hand, so I'm not entirely certain I'm getting the full story. When I visit Dad, I HAVE to leave by 2 pm at the latest, or it takes over an hour to get through the mad afternoon traffic clusterf*ck that is the Ring road and Calder 'highway' to get to and past Calder Park to get home. Once I have the car here, I can start my investigation of the cause without any interuptions (other than the squealing handbrake) and work.
While the electronics and wiring on AUs is very complex, I'm still not entirely convinced this is an electrical gremlin, rather a mechanical fault. Without a doubt, the ECU failure was a primary cause of the original no-start, it run fine after for a few days, then started missing. That has NOT gone away. I'm thinking that during the original repairs, those apes revved the absolute piss out of the engine and started an internal failure that continues to this day. Anyway, I will get to the bottom of it, even if it entails replacing the ENTIRE wiring harnesses and/or engine of the car itself. If it's an engine replacement, it will go V8.

Spent 4 hours on this yesterday after we found Dad a clean BA XT Mk2 sedan. Short of pulling the engine apart or replacing the entire wiring harness, I can't find what is causing this bloody miss. Every part involved is either new, fully tested, or a working example from another car. When it comes to my place where I have my full arsenal of tools and test equipment, it's getting the full monty, comp test, rocker cover off, full electrical check for EVERY ECU wire for continuity and crossover and then, I'll decide what to do next. Shiity weather meant I couldn't pull the valve cover at Dad's place and I was limited somewhat to what I could do without major dismantlement of the dash (that will come if required), so I did what I could (which wasn't a lot, unfortunately) and I will continue the search under cover at home with a vigor. This thing will not beat me. I WILL find the problem.

I've considered there is a failed diode in the alternator. That's where I'm looking first next visit to Dad's place.

I've found the #62 wire at the ECU is the traction control torque control request from the ABS module. We suspect that the ABS module has had a meltdown, burned some wires inside the body harness and is somehow causing the ECU to think that the car is losing traction and is cutting cylinder(s) to reduce 'wheelspin'. That might explain the random ABS and TC lights and codes. If I cut the #62 wire close to the ECU plug, allowing me to reconnect it if needed and removing any possible signal leakage into the ECU, that MIGHT stop all this bullshit. I'll also do a full comp test and leakdown, plus check a few other mechanical things to make sure it's not a mechanical issue. Being this car has been faultless prior to this issue, I doubt that is the problem, but hey, anything can happen, even to perfectly good engines.

I managed to solve the problem by removing the bell housing half cover, degreasing and then wiping Three Bond High Temp RTV Silicon into the slight gap between the sump and the rubber seal.
It wasn't a big leak but enough to fail a RWC inspection. I should probably have put the RTV silicon on it when fitting the sump. Anyway I am most happy that it no longer leaks.

I've pulled the sump from an XD before. Drop the sway bar, lift the engine up and put blocks under the mounts, remove the oil pump and pick up and it SHOULD be able to be manouvered out. You might have to rotate the crank to allow the back of the sump to clear the crank counterweights and rods, etc but it will come out with patience.

I've pulled the sump from an XD before. Drop the sway bar, lift the engine up and put blocks under the mounts, remove the oil pump and pick up and it SHOULD be able to be manouvered out. You might have to rotate the crank to allow the back of the sump to clear the crank counterweights and rods, etc but it will come out with patience.