Macht

3 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

All the same bearings I would've thought?

Maybe grab the part numbers off one of the bearings, and go from there?

Could be, I was just using the repco parts picker to see what I needed

May of just figured it out.

94DA-4005-MF - EF B EAM 3.23 STD 4MF ABS - Looks to match the numbers

Hey guys,

I was looking at ordering some axel bearings and seals for my XH, and it dawned on me that I need to figure out what diff is in it, so I can get the right part.
I know a previous owner has swapped out the diff at some point, and I think it's a diff out of a EL Wagon.

The tag is gone, and the sticker is pretty torn up but I think it reads 94DA-4005-MF. Casting mark is 0578 026907 (I think).

If it helps It has a mount for and equalizer, which I think wasn't included in an XH ute?

Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers

14 hours ago, hendrixhc said:

 

Id be pulling any filler out to make sure the rust isnt in behind it.

Thanks mate. At this stage I think we're heading down to fresh metal and starting over. Thanks!

9 hours ago, 2redrovers said:

The best method is bare metal then prime with ppg 408 epoxy (in grey-green is the best version), then filler if required, reprime with the 408 epoxy to seal the filler, then start the process for painting (hifill, sanding, colour etc). You can do a panel at a time, the epoxy is 2 pak but does take a long time to dry so be aware of that but it's relatively cheap and the best on the market as far as the resto scene is concerned. I'd strip it with a poly disc for most of it, red brush what I couldn't reach, treat any rust with acid then seal it as above with epoxy. It will be good for a couple of years if done correctly like that and weather proof as well.

Thank you mate, that is really in depth, thanks for spending the time!

Just to confirm, when you mention poly disks, you're talking about this type https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-poly-abrasive-disc-115mm/553770.html?

1 hour ago, 2redrovers said:

I use these from supercheap

https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/toolpro-toolpro-nylon-filament-wheel-brush/550790.html

Use in the power drill it will take the rust off without biting into the metal like a grinder wheel. It will strip paint, filler, primer, rust and clean up metal for welding. I use them the most along with flap wheels and strip discs. You can do the red brush first or you can get some rainex rust buster acid from bunnings (phosphoric acid) and use a bit of steel wool or a scourer /scotchbrite to scrub any rusty metal. The acid is brilliant and will take off all the rust with a little elbow grease, back to clean metal, scrub on, wipe off, it will only react to bare metal (doesn't work through paint). Give it a sand when you are ready to paint it, as if it was just bare steel, sand with 180# start primer, slap some paint over and all good. Assuming you just want to patch it so it doesn't rust to pieces. If you want to respray the whole thing, strip a panel at a time, wash it down with acid, wash it down with metho or thinners, epoxy prime then start the repair/paint process.

Would I be better going straight for the red wheels, or should I go down the acid route? This is knowing that I should (hopefully) be stripping it back and doing it correctly at a later point?

48 minutes ago, hendrixhc said:

I use brass wire wheels on the angle grinder and also 120 grit flappy disks. these are faily fine and dont bite in too much. etch prime the bare metal, prime and seal it.

Any reasons for going etch over filler? Just trying to make sure I do it correctly

Thanks mate, given me heaps to work with. Appreciate it.

Just now, deankdx said:

definitely DON'T leave it alone.  it will get worse. 

it looks to have been repaired/painted poorly in the past, original paint doesn't fall off like that. 

at minimum, get a wire brush on a drill (or spend a while with a hand one) and treat it with rust converter then primer and some white paint. (looks like Stark white) 

is it only that 1/4 panel? maybe it was replaced, if it's the whole car you will be looking at stripping the whole car back later.. 

Thanks mate, appreciate it.

Is there any issues with using a wire brush on an angle grinder or should I look one of those paint stripper disks instead? 

I'm absolutely brand new to anything paint wise, so if you've got any tips on what primers I should look at it would be appreciated. 

I kind of figured it'd been badly painted at some point, as there doesn't look to be any primer used under the paint that is flaking off. That and I can remove some of it with my nail.
The whole car will need to be stripped back at some point, so I'm not against that. Just looking to stop the rust in the mean time before I get to that stage.

Thanks again.

Hey guys,

I've got an XH which I plan on working on over the coming years, and it has a few patches of surface rust on the body.
I plan to get it painted at some point but that could be years away (It's a project car and I am trying to be realistic), what should I do about the surface rust that is already on the car? Should I treat it and spray primer over it, should I just leave it alone?

A few pictures below.

Cheers

46 minutes ago, Thom said:

It is a pain in the arse, but pulling the original lash adjusters apart, cleaning them and re assembly yields a better result 90% of the time, the aftermarket lash adjusters just don't seem to last very long before they become noisy

Thanks Thom. I was reading earlier that there might be some seals inside the HLA which can perish and need replacing, but are exceptionally hard to come across.

The post may of been for the older crossflow engines, but not an XH. Do you know if that is the case with XH HLA's?

Cheers

Morning chaps, 

My XH has the classic old rattle coming from one of it's hydraulic lifters.

I am looking throwing a new set in, but need some guidance on brands.

I seen at Repco they sell Nason lifters, and the other brand I have seen are Mace Engineering. Anyone have any experience with either of these?

Otherwise, are there any other brands I should look at.

Lastly, I have seen a few guides on disassembling the lifters and giving them a clean. Would this be worth the time, or just throw the parts at it?

Cheers

Many thanks mate

10 minutes ago, deankdx said:

 

if they have a part number. google.
i've asked a mate, that may know.. @Thom may know what they do on an XH..

i'd assume they fit around an opening of the air intake?  no idea

 

as for the cracked bits.. @2redrovers may suggest plastic welding. but i'd probably ziptie something from a different location or make a bracket like i did on My pulsar bumper click for bumper repair pic on pulsar

They literally have a L and an R on them, and that's it! Looking around the front bumper for something that matches their curve, this might be their home? 
I need to play around with it a little more, but that might be it

Hey guys,

I've got some new headlights to throw into the XH, so today was removing the bumper and getting ready to install them tomorrow.
As with everything, once I had the bumper off, I spied a few things that need my attention while I am there.

I noticed that one of the mounts for my bumper had completely snapped off. What are my repair methods here? I had a poke around online, a seen some mention of fiber glass and some 3M kits from the US, but figured I would ask here.

While I am here, after removing the front bumper, it pretty much fell apart thanks to the previous owners hatred of fasteners. Any clues on what these guys are?

Look to be rubber mounts of something. Maybe the front wire grill?

24 minutes ago, deankdx said:

one of the members here was bitten by a redback in behind an XG falcon front bumper.. Hospital, worst pain of his life, stress level 10.. probably had a life perspective/priority think from that point also. 

the bloody things are everywhere here, we had one under the fridge IN THE KITCHEN with the web protruding to where bare feet toes could go..(i got the Mrs to drop a bug on the web, spider was out in a flash and i squashed it like a ninja) 

 

Ahh that explains it. I always thought there was a story behind it.

Cheers

22 minutes ago, deankdx said:

CHECK FOR RED BACK SPIDERS
the inner tray sides have "access panels"  you can tape a garden hose or heater hose(3/4" ) to the vacuum cleaner hose and suck out the dust out.. 

 

i thought from the underside there was one drain hole, but i wouldn't be putting water down there on purpose unless necessary. i think the panel beside the petrol tank is supposed to drain into the sills, which probably are meant to drain also.

 

i've always vacuumed them out, used a paint brush /dust pan brush to dust it to the bottom, vacuum it.. wipe any areas out and then paint bare metal.. rust convert and paint any surface rust spots

 

Thanks mate. I've actually been reading a lot of your posts over the last few weeks, and it makes me smile when I see you mention the redback spiders.

It works through, I was checking the sils and hinges the other day, and my first step before I stuck my digits up in there, was to give it a quick visual inspection for any little friends.

There are now quite a few homeless red backs around my house, as I keep evicting them as I come across them, following your advice.

Cheers

Hey guys,

Recently while tidying up some wiring in for my tail lights in my XH, I noticed the cavity of the tray (No idea if that even is what it's called. The cavity where you can see the top of the rear wheel wells, accessed from the tail lights) is full of dirt and muck. 

I was going to hit it with the high pressure hose, but I couldn't see any drain holes that would allow the water to run out.

Are there any drain holes in that area so I can give it a hose out? Ideally I would also like to make sure they are clear of debris before I start hosing as well.

Cheers

Hey guys,

Any idea where I can find these glass bushings (grommets?), or at least how I can secure the glass in my window?

My XH has cable ties holding the window to the actuators, and the window keep getting jacked up when winding it up.

Cheers

Morning guys,

I have the same problem as this thread  http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/3736-think-i-found-my-issue-but/  where the plastic is also cracked inside my latching mechanisms.

What options do I have to fix it? Are they repairable? Or is sourcing parts from the wreckers my only options?

It's for a 96 XH if that makes any difference.

Cheers