deankxf
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Posts posted by deankxf
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2 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:Thought so the rattle only comes on past 1200
Any chance of video and put it on YouTube
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25 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:Well we have knocking. It didnt sound rod related but it has me wondering about the timing chain. Does it have a tensioner?
No tensioner on them.
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23 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:Well we have knocking. I was looking at it today and i noticed that a knocking sound was coming from the front of the engine. It didnt sound rod related but it has me wondering about the timing chain. Does it have a tensioner? and could a fucked up timing chain be causing the problems. I checked my timing and it was bouncing wildly from 3 to 8 degrees but i do know that the est controls this. What do you all think? Could the timing chain be the issue or am I barking up the wrong tree?
They run ok with timing chain so worn it rubs on the timing case.
Rule out noisy belts next time it's running by tipping water over the fan belts (these can make a horrible racket surprisingly
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1 hour ago, XF EDDIE said:. I sorta resurrected my compression tester and got 120 on cylinder 1. Low but it should still run?
My last crossflow XF had 120psi on all 6 and i drove it 120,000kms before the head gasket blew again(when it blew the first time, i just stuck another gasket on and sent it again, blew Saturday night and i changed it the next day)
if it had 5 cyls of compression and one with zero it would run good enough consistently.
i'm still saying it's got to be spark or fuel,
could be the EST computer in the kick panel being erratic,
could be bad connections, you could try running a wire from the battery (+) to the coil (+) and that would be a good test it's not the rest of the wiring (connections/ignition switch etc) can't turn it off though without removing that wire though, so it's potentially dangerous.. -
24 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:lets bring this thread to light as its one of the last jobs to fix on the xe ,my heater does work,outside air too,but its stuck on windscreen by default as dave has said,fan switch dont work,and suction dont work either,so where should i start looking without ripping it all apart again,or can i manualy stop the outside air from coming in cause im getting a bit of engine bay fumes.
where the heater box seals to the plenum is where you will get air bypassing the heater box, but it's from the wiper cowel vent, so shouldn't be engine fumes up there really.
the part in the pick where the quick grip clamp is replacing the seal
i haven't got time to read the thread below, but there's some more info to look at.SPArKy_Dave and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this -
19 minutes ago, Tazvan said:battery draining issue
i haven't watch the video yet.
but on an XF etc, always check the glove box light (i removed it to fix the issue, the switch is not up to a 10kg junk box on 2 hooks for hinges )
auto elec found it in 30 seconds, due to it's a common issue. (didn't charge Me, Legend)
Tazvan reacted to this -
a
1 minute ago, XF EDDIE said:I was only gonna unhook it from the manifold itself. I hope it fixes this turd
ah yes, forgot about that, all good, just as much noise and flames, make sure there's no flameable fuel leaks etc around etc
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4 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:I might just try it with open manifold and see if that fixes it. Ill report back with what happens.
should film it from far away, will be some mighty noises and flames if you unbolt it from the head and run it.
Tazvan reacted to this -
2 hours ago, Tazvan said:My current multimeter has a rev counter and used it to check my XF when Weber went back on, my ears set it correctly
I have done same with ignition timing and even wheel alignments in the past, but i've also got it very wrong before also.
Tazvan reacted to this -
4 minutes ago, Tazvan said:Dean, do you use a rev counter for your small engine tinkerings ?
only My ears.
RPM meter would be handy for low idle speed accuracy, by the book on cars -
3 hours ago, Tazvan said:My Factory Ford XF Repair manual doesn't have N listed, but when I collected my new 2 stage switch he mentioned how the 3.3 carb only opened the secondary throttle plate to 3/4 open, which mine does.
AH HA!
this is something i remember from My brother's one (3.3 XF auto) hadn't seen it since (25yrs ago at least)
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1 hour ago, Tazvan said:Not sure what to get at this stage... Any thoughts ?
the most useful part of them for Me is the continuity BUZZER, the $10 ebay ones don't have, and neither does the cheapest Jaycar one.
this one for $28 is likely similar to my favourite one ( i have 3, i bought a $10 incl post one on ebay when i couldn't find the other 2 )
$10 ebay one -
11 hours ago, XF EDDIE said:however I drove it hard again and like before it ran perfectly for about a minute before going back to the way it was before. What could this be lifter? Head gasket? It's got me puzzled
head gasket will be constant,
lifter won't affect it much in my opinion (i've had wiped ones, and they go ok on 5cyls)
blocked exhaust (cat) is still plauisble. find another? see if you can get an exhaust joint to make a "leaded" engine pipe replacement for it (tell em you've fitted the unleaded exhaust off your other car for example, or even you want it for testing/faults) (i'd expect $150 odd ?)
SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
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2 hours ago, CHESTNUTXE said:scully we have never seen anything like this before
The truth is out there, but so are lies.
SPArKy_Dave and CHESTNUTXE reacted to this -
26 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:I just checked the cat with a heat gun and the temps were pretty inconsistent some areas were hotter than others with the lowest being about 200 and the highest being almost 300 the average temp was about 220 but there were hot spots. Also when the engine idle got really rough it was making a horrible rattling noise from underneath. I cant tell if its the cat but it does sound like something from that area
i reckon it will be the cat, broken. it's like a light weight rock, it can get blown into a blockage and then when low air speed (idle) just fall back enough to rattle around. (that's what one of mine in particular was like when i bought the car)
there's other things that can rattle when there's issues, and one of the most unusual ones was a FLEXPLATE with rivetted on ring gear and the rivets were loose/flogged out
SPArKy_Dave and Tazvan reacted to this -
1 hour ago, Tazvan said:which our former local carb restorer who has now retired said all the Weber's (34 ADM) go like that...
My carby bloke(RIP) said they OFTEN got air leaks from being done up too tight.
He used to race a p76 in ipra class (Nigel Newman)
SPArKy_Dave and Tazvan reacted to this -
6 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:as the exhaust was clogged up with carbon to begin with
sure it wasn't blocked with a rats nest or similar? or rust
Just now, XF EDDIE said:Also I forgot to mention that it seems to not put out much exhaust out the tailpipe (even at 2000) you can barely feel it) compared to my f100 with the same engine although I can't tell if this is because of a blockage or the leaks in the system
with the cat, when mine was blocked it was SO HOT, it melted the carpet
if you can feel heat 30cm from it, it's likely blocked.
2000rpm you'd definitely be making a LOT OF NOISE and air flow, so i'd be leaning towards it being blocked by the description. -
3 minutes ago, XF EDDIE said:Can I get the same result by doing a no spark crank?
Sparkydave means, use the starter trigger wire with the key in off position. crank it over and hear if the engine goes waaa waaa waaa waaa weeeerrr waaaa every revolution, a different note on one cylinder.
the fact it has even compression, suggests it should be fine.
if it's been sitting ages (blocked exhaust etc) then it might be a valve sticking or lifter issue here and there. i'd still be inclined to run it more and see if it sorts it self out.
the miracle stick mechanic reacted to this -
1 hour ago, XF EDDIE said:Hey fellas I need recommendations on a full stock style exhaust for an xf ute. I was gonna patch up the old one but that plan fell apart when my tailpipe collapsed after reversing through long grass. I only need a cat back exhaust as the rest is still ok. Are there any premade systems i can get on the cheap or is this gonna have to be a custom job. Also in regards to "clearing" the cat are there any downsides to doing it. I live in qld and got a rwc so that's not a problem but will it cause any issues that cant be tuned out or can I hollow it out?
when My cat blocked up in my XF ute, i just unblocked it (unbolted the pipe under the drivers floor) and got a garden hose with a bolt jammed in it and just thrashed it around in there until the pieces were small enough to shoot out when i started the car up.)
my intention was to find another second hand one, but i forgot for 100,000kms then sold the car. (supposedly they would run better with it in according to the exhaust shop, and a removed cat is a $10k fine apparently, but a broken one just needs replacement )
if money is tight and you get along with your exhaust shop, he'd probably have an E series muffler laying around he's never going to use (or a second hand one in the bin that some kid has put a noise maker 2000 on in place of) they are slightly bigger pipe size but basically same.
the mid pipe can be put on apparently from cat back to diff with slight mods (flange is different due to 2" to 2 and 1/4 possibly?) and tail pipe needs either welding to muffler or bigger section added.most exhaust shops i've dealt with would have a baffled muffler on the shelf that's a close enough match to the original for probably less than $150 fitted these days.
SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
10 hours ago, SPArKy_Dave said:I'd just do the leaking one, and leave the rest alone for now if working ok.
The front one has a circlip holding it in.
I've never needed to replace one, but it's a straightforward job, and can be done with the transmission in the car.
I'd allow a good few hours to do the job.
Use a punch to push the circlip in via the tiny access hole, then peel it out with a small screwdriver.
Twist the servo cover out using a back and forth motion with multi-grips on the raised section,
fit new o-rings lubricated with trans fluid, then re-assemble.
would you trust random mechanics to do this job?
i'd be taking it to a transmission shop
SPArKy_Dave reacted to this -
1 minute ago, Adrian853 said:I’ve cleaned up the EFI tank as best I can and put a Walbro 255lph pump in there…
looks good,
i've seen some with the internals rusted completely way
Adrian853 reacted to this -
5 hours ago, bear351c said:The 4 small hoses are part of the Emissions recovery system. Early XA/XB sedans, coupes etc didn't have them, late XB and the XC did. I've plugged mine of in the XA.
Looks like a fuel return line next to the filler hose.??
the one next to the filler is to stop splash back when filling from memory (goes up to the steel part of the filler) might be related to the unleaded restrictor in the filler neck even.
return line is on the fuel sender/pump thing (smaller one)
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5 hours ago, fotz said:also any ideas for an accelerator cable, impossible to find an e series or au v8 cable anywhere…
this is marked as used, but it looks pretty good in the packet,
fotz reacted to this
86 XF Falcon Ute not starting
in Crossflow
Posted
@Thom reckon this sounds like cross firing (crap dizzy cap or leads) or a sticky valve..
seems to run smooth at some point so it's surely not a pushrod?
what's a sticky lifter do when they go bad?
definitely odd, my first thought would be to look at the dissy cap for cross firing (you can do this in the dark possibly, as Dad's 351 was like one of those millennium balls at night when it was sprayed with rusty water from the radiator)