deankxf

59 minutes ago, BDuck said:

Needing the answer mostly from someone who might have attempted it.

Having the answer has been me watching various YouTube videos but more hoping for a more local approach.


Otherwise I'm about to buy a bunch of rust-oleum and sharpies.

Sent from my Pixel 6 Pro using Tapatalk
 

if you don't get an answer on restoring them, see if you can keep contacting up the vicroads chain (head office used to be in Ballarat and once i had something keep going up the chain until it got to the boss man there)
I'd be asking if you can have yours repainted(enameled whatever it is)  by the mob doing it, due to the sentimental nature of them.  they may actually allow it. 

My dealing with them probably near 20yrs ago is i bought a car with standard issue plates that were cool in My opinion,  FCK-***(numbers)  and i sold the plates for the price of the car. i got an angry call from the buyer a few weeks later, Vic roads won't allow the transfer  of the "offensive" plates. so i ended up on the phone a fair bit until i got to the head office mob. rational discussion was, there's literally one number different on a car around the corner, are you going to repossess that too? they are standard issue, there's 1000 of them out there.. guy agreed, it wasn't 000 number so what's the problem. 

anyway.. what was a NO, eventually turned to an OK (plus i didn't want to refund the guys money without a fight and he was happy to keep them regardless but was shattered when they wouldn't allow them to be displayed. )

worst case, try get the Vic roads mob to take yours in to the mob who makes them for repaint if you had them prepped perhaps. shouldn't be any skin off anyone's nose if you are paying post in every direction

@SPArKy_Dave you're surely either needing the answer or already researched it?

3 hours ago, BTS666 said:

Left side is the side I need, but want a pair so if they are originals, and a bit faded, it won't stick out as much. 

Thanks guys. 

In My experience, the originals don't fade. (the lenses red/orange)(the covers may fade possibly)

if your driver one is original I'd look for a genuine left one, one on ebay is not genuine but expensive (not listed as non genuine) 
i'll have a look later for you, where are you located? (state/area  i may be able to find closer, they'd be expensive to post due to the size ($25 min through auspost)

37 minutes ago, BTS666 said:

Does anyone know of anywhere doing repro ones? I am after a pair. 

 

Sorry if this is in the wrong section. 

what's your budget?
there's used originals on ebay and plenty on market place(facebook)

and one new AFTERMARKET pair i came across with a quick search on facebook  here $495 though (sounds dear) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1149145905792111/

33 minutes ago, BTS666 said:

Does anyone know of anywhere doing repro ones? I am after a pair. 

 

Sorry if this is in the wrong section. 

what's your budget?
there's used originals on ebay and plenty on market place(facebook)

and one new AFTERMARKET pair i came across with a quick search on facebook  here $495 though (sounds dear) https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1149145905792111/

I'd always try to find good originals, the repros if anyone has any always faded the colour from the lenses. 

assume you want sedan ones, wagon ones are near impossible to find 

45 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

Oh that would be perfect, but I'm in NZ and I he won't ship internationally. But thanks for the info, it's something I can keep an eye out for locally.

you could have something made fairly easy i reckon if it didn't need to be original?  

plenty of competent panel guys in your land(no idea if close by) 

3 minutes ago, iamaelephant said:

Previous owner has cut an excessively large hole in my transmission tunnel and I have struggled to fabricate a piece I'm happy with. I need to get it sealed up around my new T5. Does anyone know if a panel like this one might be close to fitting?

Ford Transmission Tunnel Cover XR XT XW XY Falcon ZA ZB ZC ZD Fairlane rust (kingswoodcountry.com.au)

 

not sure in the XR-XY one, but the XA to XE one is a direct fit and will clear a T5 if you position it right  (i had to slightly go back further from an auto one in My XE for T5) they are fairly flexible

there's one here i THINK(doesn't say what car it's from) for much much much cheaper than new 
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/125663221724?hash=item1d421c97dc:g:eYQAAOSwpWhjmXtC&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwM8frLvz6bMrFipCVH%2B3M4QTruYbx8I2kCyv2AgP%2FoX8Ot8iBicEllDWXJonzkJ7nKBabwWBbTYvQRyX3SZ5iDsg6t1MvIqE2wJ0%2BYSdLVb8TVgUnhBlLzHY8NqsL67yglIT0Suq3pNbCwmYVi%2BGeceHjM6d7vmDWH7WcINvg%2FAGGhtynjhTARlrwcA5K5iUiaB%2FmhO9isHc5ogd0oQNV1pVXwIrAbr1I6HYrwZmzW3hEZuaIZNSuUL5jbrBBkKH8Q%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_SCoPHpYQ

10 minutes ago, CHESTNUTXE said:

5 speed 3.3 litre ratio maybe.

My one of these had 2.92 ratio

2 hours ago, Fingers said:

According to the parts listing, it was only XE 4.1 auto sedan, without A/C.

That would make it relatively rare as A/C was a very popular option

i think i had one once (XE auto without air) never checked the ratio, but it didn't seem slow compared to anything else(was on lpg also.. as that was My number 1 rule in the day) 

didn't keep it long, bought it when My car was off the road for 351 conversion and sold it for similar within a few weeks (approx $2000 without rwc bought, sold for $2000 with rwc, only needed rear brakes doing from memory and 2 ball joints)

9 minutes ago, Mr Polson said:

Should be same sender for X series and EA-ED.
VDO list the same part number for them.
EF/EL were a different sender.

pretty sure i had different readings with the XF ones when i fitted the EA - ED cluster in my ute, same for the other guy that did his at the same time (Matt) 

something to try though when everything is extinct.

3 minutes ago, Demmo said:

All i gotta do now is limber up to try an remove the f…kers the fun may be putting them back    grr

thanks Demmo 

i do them sitting in the seat. i feel around , put the screw driver to them and unscrew them without looking. 
had many XF XGs without those 2 screws fitted lol. i've put em back because i hate rattles etc. 

i think the reason I know so much about X series is because of all the problems i've had with them owning as daily's for 20yrs + 

TIP OF THE DAY now, don't assemble it fully until you check the odo works. (90% of them these days the gear will be stuffed (if it doesn't bother you, just assemble it.) low kms for ever.. (kind of a prick of a job to replace, but possible still)

DO YOU HAVE the correct oil sender for the sports cluster? EA EB ED will be same (sports/XR6/ghia etc) EF EL will work but may read higher or lower (i have used one on My XF once) 

pretty sure the XD XE XF one will read very low or very high though 

currently it just is an off /on switch for the oil light

19 minutes ago, Demmo said:

Hi all. I want to swap my xg standard gauges to the  multi gauge. Unit.  The replacement cluster is from xg as well.  The surround has 2 fixing points along the base which seems to be fixed to the dash surround by ?  They seem to be a flat headed bolt    How do you get to these do I need to remove dash or is there a special tool for it   I can’t pull any more hair out as I am already bald lol.  Any help an guidance would be great    Demmo

note, you'll need to remove the headlight/demister etc switches fully(remember where they go, take a pic)
the XG might need steering wheel removed for cluster out, was a tight fit from memory, sort of roll it out of it's cradle (4 screws holding the cluster in)

from under the dash (remove hand brake lever cover /fuse panel cover) 

 and vertically put a Philips head screw driver up either side of the steering column.   they are easier to FEEL than see.

can see one broken and one intact in the XF pic below

i didn't read it.. but i searched rust.. no mention of rust.

when the F100 wrecker was in Carrum Downs he had several of them in a line, all rusted beyond saving (in his opinion) 

bloke i worked with 20yrs ago had one that was restored and it was so cool, probably still has it. was red and white 

1 hour ago, Fingers said:

Some also had 2.53

mythical ratio, has anyone seen one? 

mate of mine said he had a 3.12 ratio in an XF that was factory fitted (never converted at least) 

1 hour ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

 

The XD-XE evap and condenser cores, have been obsolete for 10-15yrs I think?

Luckily the XF evaporator cores (in dash), cross over to the e-series as well.

 

I didn't know about the XF/XG condenser cores though!

do you think the XF evap core would fit in an XD XE heater box,

and then use XF TX valve (probably also NLA for XD XE) and use all XF pipes etc on XD. 

that's something i'd be looking into if i had to, and change to the universal Sanden compressor because the XF ones seemed to be stuffed 90% of the time. 

Cool story. 

Chemicals back in those days were probably without much safety research also.

25 minutes ago, SPArKy_Dave said:

The shop made up their own Aircon lines using Oetiker clamps instead of proper hydraulic crimp sleeves -

apparently causing one connection to blow off, within a couple minutes of running.

the last time i had air con hoses made they were done at Enzed in North Geelong,  the air con mob i used in Geelong worked from home until he stopped doing it for general public (think he only dealt with car yards/mechanics due to less direct contact with bad customers)

1 hour ago, BDuck said:

 

In my grandparents wisdom, they decided aircon wasn't necessary back in 1979, so didn't opt for it when they bought their car.

 

Has anyone had aircon installed, and is willing to post an approximate cost? I always love driving the car, and would love to drive it more on the warmer days as I'd prefer to avoid rain.

 

Cheers in advance

 

I've only fitted it using second hand bits a few times. 

had the cores pressure tested and new/good bits were available (long time ago) 

give KAR AIR a ring (Ferntree Gully Eastern Melbourne)

https://karair.com.au/

i trust them not to be rip offs (if it's stuffed they'll tell you, if it's a just leaky valve that's all they'll charge you for ... plus gas of course) 

i don't know how they'd go locating any of it, but they may give you a shopping list to find. 

you could ask them if the XF evaporator fits the XD heater box (this would overcome the hardest to locate, XDs were obsolete over 10yrs ago) 

if the XF evaporator fits, maybe you could then use the XF TX valve, pipes  and compressor and bracket with XF alternator (always need rebuild replacing when old) dryer and condenser. 

depends how original you'd want it ..  XF stuff looks different to XD, but should be able to locate it second hand. 

@SPArKy_Dave may again know some leads, but it's generally extinct if you are starting from scratch. 

(there was a guy on facebook i could probably find/ask, that made a full kit for holden gemini. around $1500 rings a bell)

4 hours ago, cisco said:

I cut the damned thing off and flare the intake end. It is only to get the engine up to temp quicker. I don't think it affects RWC but check with your RWC guy.

RWC guys in Melbourne/Geelong love picking these kinds of things

better would be run a longer tube to behind the headlight (later XFs had this with a duct behind the battery for cold air intake ducting) 

14 hours ago, omgwizards said:

I suspect it's safe, but is there anything I need to consider if sourcing some random metal hose & hose clamps to use?

 

its safe, those parts are rare because they often went in the bin soon after they looked tatty like that. 

it's for colder weather for the engine run without the choke sooner(probably measured in seconds) 

you'd need it for rwc when going for rego, and you'd fit it for the sake of an original engine bay on a resto, but 99% of my cars i'd remove it after rego (so it didn't get damaged ) and store it for the next car's rwc. 

definitely looks cool with Burton cover and lead separator. 

broken bolts, at least it looks accessible to drill. 

it's probably a china alternator, it may well be still worth having your old one reco'd when time/funds allow. 

3 minutes ago, Panko said:

Hopefully being braided rubber hose, it will take a beating from stuff that maybe picked up off the tyre. 

not sure if you can make something look neat, but we made a cover for similar exposed hoses on BGDAV's XE due to where the surge tank was located (behind the rear wheel) 
not that it should be thought of, but it could stop someone from tampering with it also

56 minutes ago, Rayinsydney said:

The seat put up a fight to get out, and now seems to not slide back and forth so something else to look at,  the seat rails have some 'punches' that almost look like they are pilot holes to drill and tap and re-locate the rails backwards for more travel, so once the power steering gets put in soon, I'll check that out and see if it makes a difference.

cool, let us know if there's a spot to relocate the mount point.(via drilling a new hole)
i didn't really think of this in the falcons, but had considered it in the gemini i have (drilling the holes in the seat further back, but it will put strain on the mounting, maybe add a 3rd bolt if you can on the rail to seat?) 

i think the ford rails are strong enough for this, (i've seen cracked ones, but i reckon that was due to work hardening, high kms cars ) plus the BUM part wouldn't be past the end of the rail, but you'd get a fair bit of leverage on the seat back pulling on the front mountings. 

pretty cool P Clip nutsert trick. 

good progress, guess a seat will be next so you can remember how it feels