deankxf

if the XF one works in basher, swap it over.. only difference should be the fuel return pipe from memory

gas guages interfaces used to be available to do this conversion.

Oops... didn't know it was the digital dash.

wouldnt make any difference, the guages work when you fit a digital dash to the GL

i've always half filled the oil filter, should definitely help

what car is it?

are you sure it needs upgrading? i used an XF EFi tank and pump with My lexus V8 and had it tested on a dyno at full noise to test that and a few other things.. kept up no issue and the lexus drinks fuel on full throttle for 4.0 litres also.

bob jane did a wheel alignment for Me once with the ball joint so rooted it was making noise.

i had it pedders checked after bob jane alignment wore tyres in not very long.. took it back to bob Jane to be told we dont check the car out before WTF.. since then, Pedders is all i trust. they have always been happy to show me the rooted parts while on the hoist too.

i've been told that if used tyres have uneven wear on them they will continue to wear that way also.

how much tyre pressure? i was running 34psi most of the time.

That inner front tyre wear is an X series trademark mate. Have that on mine too.

Don't think i've seen an XD, XE, XF, XG that doesn't do it without a correction kit on it.

Check it's not the idler arm, could be play on the other side.

No idea on why the steering wheel is out after changing just tyres.

 

Jack.

whats a correction kit?

I've had to replace idler arms every 12 months ish, 30,000-40,000kms

only wheel alignment joint i trust is Pedders, never had uneven tyre wear since they have been doing them over joints that sell tyres.

i had bridgestone tyre joint wreck 2 new tyres for me in less than a week after they aligned it "to spec"

all parts need to be in good nic. mostly ball joints, idler, tie rods and caster (radius rod)rubbers wear out fast.. but inner control arm bushes and camber bolts "slipping" (never had pedders wheel alignment have the camber bolt move but beurepairs, and other joints have not done them tight enough... they sell tyres though)

the oil pump drive might be a little out, try moving the gear on the dizzy one or two teeth advanced it should drop in, then remove it and align it with number one in the right spot. it should fit. the oil pump drive can be hard to engage sometimes(thats the hex/allen key slot inside the dizzy shaft.. mates with the oil pump drive)

Got both out. Now I m gonna put the new ones in & then start on drivers sidethese are the ones I got dean from burs on

cool,

plenty of people are using that brand, would be interested to see how they last.

BEWARE CHEAP PARTS!
what parts are you re fitting? HAVE YOU SEEN THIS THREAD http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/2603-warning-please-read-cheap-parts-danger/

Cheers dean, I got the tie rod off by smacking the thread with the nutt on. The new ones come with new nuts pins etc.

that can work, not always though..  (no good if you want to re use it either which is sometimes the case)

you can see the dents on the stub axles where its been hit before. give it a whack

never used one of those forks, bought one for the lexus but still used the hammer method, which always works
see pic below

one of My XFs  had an XH bumper, i dont like them either.

the towbar didnt stick out far enough but still worked just without trimming? ute came with it already on.

i had the spare under the fuel tank floor for 5 yrs.. only used it once.. reason was LPG tank.(worthwhile on the mainland)

i'd fix the bumperette and leave it as is personally.. (i'd even consider retrofitting the old stuff to an XH)

yeah prick of a spot, but no where near as bad as the one that goes behind the flywheel(aka the first one i change to brass if i do a gearbox off or motor out)

probably should make up a list one day of things you should get around to checking on your ozfalcon..

might go something like

1. look for headgasket leaks

2. check for rusty water marks indicating welsh plug leaks.

3. align the doors properly so the door handles dont break

4 etc.. etc. lol

(i sold My first XE S pack because it was leaking water from the welsh plug behind the flywheel..i was over its weekly issues. should have kept it, was a good example of one.)

Water, because that's what is in the radiator haha.

 

i think coolant is relatively important for its corrosion inhibitors, antifreeze is probably handy too as i think that might be why my headgasket blew in Tassie in May 2013. definitely got down to freezing overnight. i did have coolant in for that trip though.

this one

found the pic on google images, thanks stumper5

i've had the welsh plug in the manifold let go once, its between the head and manifold near carby on the carby manifold(assuming its still carby)

you will need to remove the manifold to get at it... or do what i did and bypass all water going through the manifold

after having remoulds and retreads let go in the past damaging panels plus the faster wear i'd only consider them for a car doing very little kms and non highway speeds(ones i had were rated at 140kmh though)

new or near new used tyres are better value to Me

Yeah TRW is now a repco exclusive brand, and aren't greaseable.

Burson sell Road safe, which is greaseable. You can also get Protek, it's also greaseable.

 

My ute has Protek in it, have it for 3 years now and the front suspension was the first thing replaced, I've done over 50,000kms (lost count with odo swaps haha) and it's all still in good condition. Idler arm and pitman are road safe though, and they're still good.

 

Wagon has TRW from Repco in it, but it's only just a year to a year and a half old and it's done max of 10,000kms so I can't comment too much on how well it last but they're holding up so far.

so you are saying your idler arm has done 50,000kms and is still good? what sort is it?  none of mine lasted a year(40,000kms) regardless of brand/type

Really don't wanna have to pull the tank out if I can avoid it.

And would prefer to keep stock fuel gauge setup etc.

might pay to at least investigate if they are any different inside

could fit an EB wagon tank or similar and get someone to sort the fuel guage out(or hook the sender to an lpg guage i think they may be same)

what about an EFI manifold(with 3 SU carbs or similar) or even EB efi manifold with 3 singles stuck on top(be simple ish)

im just out of adelaide. 

 

ill have to jack the car up more to get to the back of the box and look. 

 

What do you make of the voltage moving when its going from N to D

possible linkage touching the wires on the transducer..