deankxf

out of date unreg permit = unreg = $780 fine.. (permit is much cheaper)

see if you can just buy an engine bay loom, i did that and just unplugged it under the dash near the bonnet catch, fitted a new bonnet cable like you will need to do and plugged the rest up..

the 6cyl  wiring will have everything needed in it ..
why did the fire start, and did it get into the cabin

as above.

can get to it from under the bumper without breaking the grille if you jack the car up..

that fire looks like where one of mine started.. caused by wiring loom rubbing on metal and a dead short(100kmh freeway in heavy rain)

can see the tip of this lever from below, lever it across and it should open
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UvcAAOSwDk5Tuiu9/s-l500.jpg

worst case, you might be able to undo the mounting bolts for the latch

this better last a long time. i dont want to have to go through all that again any time in the future lol 

yeah i was thinking same, i'm interested to see if you find the steering is heavier..wonder if anyone has fitted a universal joint in its place and if it would be better or worse

i would have had to pull the sump off to check if it was a 302 or 351.. or measure stroke

yeah dean the original coupling is a piece of enforced rubber, a bit like an x series coupling (the soft disc between the metal parts) and the original escort units are riveted. to repair them you have to grind/drill out the rivets, and the kit comes with a Whiteline urethane disc, with 4 crush tubes, and 4 nuts, bolts and washers. the coupling has the same shaft on the other side, just 90 degrees rotated to the side in the photo. 

sounds the same process as the gemini one i just did, it made the steering heavier i think(only steered in the backyard so far)

i am expecting these joints to not last long.. might even see if a ford one would work in future(using the nolathane mounting kit i guess, rivets needed grinding off also)

is that steering coupling like the original or full nolathane or similar
wouldn't mind comparing the gemini to an escort.. i don't recall ever going in one, but wanted a panel van version once upon a time
 

what would the cost be?  i never got around to fixing My tailgate as the weather went crap

missed the regular updates, busy with work can get a bit annoying but its good you can still find the time to get things done.
looks awesome!

We are fitting some extractors to a 4.1 at the moment.

 

There is the pipe the runs form the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the inlet manifold.

We are not refitting the tube and want to blank off the inlet side ,its a weird size/ thread.

 

Does anyone know if there is a bolt or plug off the shelf?

Or just cut the tube down and fold it over ?

last time i unbolted the EGR (the thing the pipe goes into) and made a solid gasket with no hole to go between it and the inlet  and bolted it back on.. its probably blocked with carbon anyway, but you'd be better off blocking it off properly.

i also found 5 or 10c coin in one behind the pipe once too.. blocking it offf

+1 on the needle nose or you just wind in the adjuster as you go and do it in baby steps.

be prepared to break your pliers if they are tight..(have done this before also..)

Just googled total tools, theres one on geelong rd brooklyn ill go tomorrow after work.

price match em if they are dearer...

https://www.toolmart.com.au/scmt70016.html

i came across them on graysonline.com last night.. auction.. pain to work out also, need to pay a buyers premium and bids in $10 increments ..take care to read it or find it elsewhere..
http://www.graysonline.com/lot/0126-2158821/power-tools/sidchrome-rear-disc-brake-piston-tool-70016?spr=true

(i used multi grip pliers to screw the piston in last time i did them)

been watching this build on ffau, making decent progress considering what you started with

Thanks dean, i think you are spot on!

 

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk

sometimes if you can get through winter they will come good during summer..

if it runs on petrol, you can switch to petrol on the way home and the next day start on petrol and switch to gas after the engine warms up

gear box out on that would probably be like My gemini..30min job and weighs less than 25kg.. should be easy to do the rear main(anything rubber is probably fubar from age)

when the gas converters are cold the build up of gunk is hard and stops the valves inside closing once vacuum pulls them open - flooding results.
you can confirm this by pouring hot water over the converter when cold morning and if it starts fine, it will need cleaning.
later in the day the warm weather makes the gunk soft enough to let the valves move..

is it a Landi converter, they are common for this issue. but the easiest to clean out also..

what radiator did you get..

condensation on leads is a possibility check this thread for the same i had recently
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/6204-condensation-under-bonnet-wd40-or-is-there-better/

i am fairly sure i saw a disc brake conversion that bolts to the drum brake stub axel etc(keeps steering geometry the same etc)

was probably on one of the many XK to XP threads on ford forums .com.au http://www.fordforums.com.au/forumdisplay.php?f=111

i used EB wagon diff and handbrake cable in XF ute using the full cable with possibly the lever doover thingy.. cant remember there being any issues.
i would have assumed the XG cable would be the same as the EB wagon..
the front cable changed lenth at some point possily.. XD\XE to XF maybe or to E series.. might be part of the remedy

if you haven't read this, Thom has written up his personal research with Q&A from others included..
well worth reading if you can source the other bits as suggested

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1233-thoms-40l-thread/

might be an issue with the blinker switch also as it dips between high and low beam, so it may pay to check there also.. not sure where the wires run from the switch, but they don't have relays to my memory

best solution I can come up with at the moment!

 

Link to my Flickr album showing the 'before' and 'after' results!!

 

I feel a lot happier now

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/82713055@N08/albums/72157673710856126

good to see you chose a factory style one with reinforcing and not a nolathane one(which would have = no steering in the old position for sure)

i lever them out the same way, had a couple that were easier than others. big crow bar would make light work of it.

i wouldn't do that job in the car, but if you can get to it you probably can have a go.. i did one only ever, rest have been done by the steering box mobs when recoing them.. i cant remember what holds it on even to be honest must be 20yrs nearly since i did one myself.