Jump to content

deankxf

Administrators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Content Count

    21,765

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    881

Posts posted by deankxf

  2. Posted

    see if you can just buy an engine bay loom, i did that and just unplugged it under the dash near the bonnet catch, fitted a new bonnet cable like you will need to do and plugged the rest up..

    the 6cyl  wiring will have everything needed in it ..
    why did the fire start, and did it get into the cabin

  3. Posted

    as above.

    can get to it from under the bumper without breaking the grille if you jack the car up..

    that fire looks like where one of mine started.. caused by wiring loom rubbing on metal and a dead short(100kmh freeway in heavy rain)

     

    can see the tip of this lever from below, lever it across and it should open
    http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/UvcAAOSwDk5Tuiu9/s-l500.jpg

     

    worst case, you might be able to undo the mounting bolts for the latch

     

    s-l500.jpg

  4. Posted

    this better last a long time. i dont want to have to go through all that again any time in the future lol 

    yeah i was thinking same, i'm interested to see if you find the steering is heavier..wonder if anyone has fitted a universal joint in its place and if it would be better or worse

  6. Posted

    yeah dean the original coupling is a piece of enforced rubber, a bit like an x series coupling (the soft disc between the metal parts) and the original escort units are riveted. to repair them you have to grind/drill out the rivets, and the kit comes with a Whiteline urethane disc, with 4 crush tubes, and 4 nuts, bolts and washers. the coupling has the same shaft on the other side, just 90 degrees rotated to the side in the photo. 

    sounds the same process as the gemini one i just did, it made the steering heavier i think(only steered in the backyard so far)

    i am expecting these joints to not last long.. might even see if a ford one would work in future(using the nolathane mounting kit i guess, rivets needed grinding off also)

    Panko reacted to this

  9. Posted

    missed the regular updates, busy with work can get a bit annoying but its good you can still find the time to get things done.
    looks awesome!

    ando76 reacted to this

  10. Posted

    We are fitting some extractors to a 4.1 at the moment.

     

    There is the pipe the runs form the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the inlet manifold.

    We are not refitting the tube and want to blank off the inlet side ,its a weird size/ thread.

     

    Does anyone know if there is a bolt or plug off the shelf?

    Or just cut the tube down and fold it over ?

    last time i unbolted the EGR (the thing the pipe goes into) and made a solid gasket with no hole to go between it and the inlet  and bolted it back on.. its probably blocked with carbon anyway, but you'd be better off blocking it off properly.

    i also found 5 or 10c coin in one behind the pipe once too.. blocking it offf

  17. Posted

    when the gas converters are cold the build up of gunk is hard and stops the valves inside closing once vacuum pulls them open - flooding results.
    you can confirm this by pouring hot water over the converter when cold morning and if it starts fine, it will need cleaning.
    later in the day the warm weather makes the gunk soft enough to let the valves move..

    is it a Landi converter, they are common for this issue. but the easiest to clean out also..

    Brendon and gerg reacted to this

  25. Posted

    i lever them out the same way, had a couple that were easier than others. big crow bar would make light work of it.

     

    i wouldn't do that job in the car, but if you can get to it you probably can have a go.. i did one only ever, rest have been done by the steering box mobs when recoing them.. i cant remember what holds it on even to be honest must be 20yrs nearly since i did one myself.

×