deankxf

yeah everyone's different i don't care about paint.. pic of My gemini engine below currently(i had the engine out, could have detailed it but wanted it driving asap.. next engine will be tidy, see painted rocker cover) probably still won't paint the engine bay, because you can't see it when driving..

Still sounds like a fairly big project. Try to make sure you have the money to finish it before pulling it apart. Or have a good shed that for it and the parts to be stored until finished

back in the olden days.. people would fit an XY diff to XA to XD to get a wider wheel in. you can get wide wheels in on the stock diff, but it's just a matter of measuring back spacing(always confusing, there's different measurements used) but most 8" rims for cars pre AU will fit on the rear. you can go wider (there is space in the wheel wells for 10" wide wheels, but you'll need the correct offset(aka back spacing) i prefer the 7" on front and 8" on the rear, but you can't rotate the tyres if so.. (who cares?) 8" with the correct offset can fit the front, also depends how low the car is. you'll either have to copy what someone else has fitted or do some learning and measuring for the one off type wheels for width and backspace/offset

yeah they'd do, it's only for the look.. you'd never need them to see with( XD lights if genuine Bosch are very good when in good condition) if you drive in fog, that's where the low mounted lights work, by seeing under the fog..

nah, ghia never had S pack spotlights.. i'd always go for the under bumper fog style ones like that red one above has. (they just look like hella rectangle ones) those Sev Marchal ones are $500+ .. hard to justify

bores will rust instantly.. need to wipe them with some oil etc instantly .. same for machined surfaces

keen to hear more about it, not that i'd be building one

i suggesed narrowing the diff for deeper dish massive width Globes but i wonder about if an AU diff would fit an XD out of curiosity to fit wrong offset wheels(don't do it, modern wheels are ugly anyway) would need to mess around with brakes also.. and not as easy as fitting an EB wagon (XG diff in) using EB SEDAN fir sedan (wagon/ute for wagon/ute) hand brake cable

a diff conversion place will cut the axle tubes, re weld them an inch or so inwards(to offset the wide wheels) sometimes they'll have axels that suit, otherwise they'll need resplining to suit.. $1000 min for that probably.. can see an example here, not bathurst globes but weld wheels look

yeah if i had My way i'd go with 15x7 globes on the front and 15x10 globes on the rear with a shortened diff.. but it's your car. unless you have big brakes that need 17s, i'd keep 15s with fat sidewalls on the tyre.. but ... i'm old .. (old enough to know better? i drive a gemini... )

someone on here will probably know.. i don't though

new cars .. add another reason i don't want one.. what is that from and what does it do?

if the clutch fork isn't in its locating pin, i've had to put it in, and sticky tape or tie the fork to the bell housing to keep it located while you fit the box(would be easier to do if fitting the box and bell as one unit but that's too heavy without a transmission jack and a hoist)

only thing i would think is if the clutch plate is back to front? or the fork isn't in the pivot pin properly

all the black parts of the paint are easy, mask off, light sand, prepsol and paint in good quality satin black paint(i'd use supercheap acrylic pressure packs because it's easy to get another if one isn't enough) silver touch up pen on the door scratches, will take the in your face aspect away.. the rest need a bit more effort, and would be worth the effort but i wouldn't do it until you are happy to take it off the road for a while(that roof rust should be fixed properly.. or it will just come straight back in 12 months if bogged up again) it's you're car, but we've seen hundreds of cars never finished once taken apart for resto/freshen up

sounds good, just keeping wax on the paint as is will keep it fine. My gemini wagon and sedan both have crows feet, etc and haven't got any worse since i've waxed them twice a year(i want to enjoy driving them, not risking taking them off the road to paint them... takes too long) sounds like a good plan to Me though. My XE ghia i removed all the side moulds etc. wonder what happened to that car after i sold it

if there is a listing for it as a paint code? someone might have the formula to just make it up(like the $36 colour match pressure pack you buy from autobarn, paint shops etc)

don't get rid of any of the moulding or badges, the ghia is rare now, and down the track you or someone buying may want to try return it to stock . the ghia seat trim is also rare(i had a burgundy XD ghia with the grey trim and worn drivers seat 20yrs ago) was rare then.. keep the trim if you ever redo the seats in something else(seat cloth stores easier than the full seats if keeping them original other than the trim) go buy a couple of big plastic tubs from supercheap and anything that comes off stash away for later. be worth something also down the track if not now. personally i'd just cruise it as is, you'll get a lot of respect for it as is i think

had to google the tweets.. will put it here because more relevant.. it's about half way in, but you'll find the others funny also

thread here for that one, it's awesome.. don't paint it

plenty of cars have run T5s making good power, it will depend on it's condition and how it's driven. i blew up 4 single rails in less than a month when i put one behind My 351.. got one rebuilt and couldn't kill it after 80,000kms.. anything that's half worn out is not going to last as well as a fresh one not matter what you do with it. give it a shot, i'd probably be mindful it's expensive to replace and maybe look at rebuilding it before it goes bang if it's going to cop a thrashing?

twins fit on XDs i thought? in the XY GT style through the leaf spring and out under the quarters.. (can't remember, i ran a single 2.5 on My XD 351 also) if you want noise and don't mind risking a canary? (car in rwc otherwise) dump it before the diff .. BGDAV below has had several exhaust setups on an engine no one can afford.. (not even Dave) but this was twin pipes dumping under the car before the diff with turndowns straight off the mufflers(makes a dust storm on gravel) we couldn't hear eachother almost, but this car makes heaps of noise.. he's gone to a tailpipe and varex mufflers now to quiet it down)

i don't recommend extractors, i hate them. crack, hard to fit/remove, go rusty.. cost $500. not needed on a mild engine, you'll have to just join some facebook pages i think, ask for recomendations and when you get them, google them for reviews.. a lot of mobs aren't interested in working on old cars for starters. for example you could go to experts like di fillipo exhausts, if they are still as good as they used to be 20yrs ago, they'd be worth talking to. https://www.exhaustshop.com.au/di-filippo they won't be cheap at all.. if you just want it to sound good, any exhaust mob should be able to bend up a twin 2.25" system (no ballance pipe if you want it to sound more lopy) or a single 2.5 inch (3inch if ever going to work the engine later) a single 2.5" cost me $250 ish from Sth Geelong exhausts from the Y pipe back about 10yrs ago with a glass pack muffler on My lexus V8 falcon can hear it here(had stock manifolds and cats)

definitelty take photos, and videos of anything you do, do a walk around. start a youtube channel. always good to go back and look at what you've done. and to share issues and fault finding. plus entertain us also

that above Marks ute is a 302.. another mates got this 351, has a mild cam, 302 heads. single 2.5" exhaust..