deankxf

how'd the dipstick hole go? already there in the falcon block? punch out a plug or need drilling?

so it's fixed? or just found it's missing

Jamie wants BIG BOOM .. episode with the TREE CANON was best for Me

which method did you use? dynamite not usually approved at self serve wreckers

is that shifter boss double sided? never seen that before(when you say transmission, i take it as auto transmission, that i call a gearbox.. in particular, single rail 4 speed.) i assume, if its a late XF it may have had a switch for neutral on the opposite side? and other one is reverse.. actually EFI may need a neutral switch? never seen one to know but @Panko or @Mr Polson may have an idea? single rails leak like a SIEVE from the selector rail seal when they are old and no one has ever looked at them, get a new one, it will need the extension housing to be removed to fit it from memory. cant find a google pic, but here's similar from google of some random gearbox

the screen setting will be at the screen if there's no vacuum to the system.fixed it 3 or 4 times without pulling the dial area apart first place to look is in the engine bay, the black hose connected to the vacuum tree on manifold. second place to look the vacuum connector behind the glove box(remove glove box for access) see if in particular black hose has pulled out of the plug(superglue it in... not gluing up the hole naturally)theres a hose off potentially at the vacuum motor near the handbrake and firewall area possible(had this once) i have seen now these cars are 30yrs old, that the vent switch can be cracked, seen it on XH or XG so XFs definitely can happen also (same setup) if so, keep digging in there but its going to be a challenge probably.. look elsewhere first if you find out what fixed it, please reply with what it was, as it will help others with Dash Vents Screen only etc

you can read this and i'll try find some other posts

i'd consider pulling the pushrods out, they are made of cheese, so can bend easy i doubt loose ones will get a good enough seal to feed oil to the rockers, maybe that's part of the need for preload?

the 225 eagers i sold that were on My bathurst globes in similar condition had one buyer(they were 13" and he wanted them for torana sprint masters mainly for display...dude never drove anything.. had several LJ toranas) sold for $60 but he would have paid the $90 i listed them at first but didn't get around to it in time.. @SPArKy_Dave also sold an old set he found (not sure if same brand) i'm sure a crusty set of tyres would be great fun to burn out, value similar, but they'd be more likely to explode and possibly damage the car?

My globes for the gemini are Cheviot, have it cast into them pretty sure the CSA 15" ones i had were also marked (15x7) i didn't even know there was a GLOBE brand, i thought they were for eg CSA GLOBE? i had 3 of those flat lip ones about 25yrs ago that came on an XR wagon i bought.. couldn't find a single in the same size even a year later so sold them as a trailer set. (were 14x6) interested in them, i think they look good with fat tyres bulging on older cars(upto XF)

what's the business facebook page? as if i needed more distractions.. but love this kind of project, made out of leftovers and spare time sounds tough!

the FORD chrome ones are definitely better than the FORD black ones, the aftermarket are rubbish by comparison. but there are several brands of aftermarket over the 20 + years and some are better than others. if the door is adjusted right with good hinge bushes and lubricated lock mechanism, they'd last FOREVER.. people always rant about them breaking, but i had XD to XFs(and an XG) for 20 plus years as daily drivers and i think i broke 3.. but when ever i bought a car i'd have to replace or repair them in the start. i recently (12 months ago?) bought a pair of NEW door handles for My gemini wagon(different to sedan) they lasted a month before both had different issues. metal was probably one level of hardness above cheese.. so i bought some broken original ones, they are very similar design to falcon ones and people have fitted the falcon ones after slotting holes etc. (the gemini wagon has an adjustable rod as bear describes above) here's a pic of My repair, i didn't have a nyloc nut handy for the bolt i chose, so got the welder onto it.

or XD or XE falcons etc.. doubt they are around these days though

if you spot a gemini there, let Me know. even the front wheel drive one(electronic dizzy guts is a conversion for the old ones)

which wrecker is that? Imlach's? Jollys, or some where else we should know about?

if you unclip or just brute force rip out the inner splash guards from the mudguard you can access the bolts on the door or the A pillar with ease(WARNING RED BACKS LOVE IT IN THERE), 13mm i think for the hinges to A pillar, i'd grab them and do it that way, be easier, and spares are good. sometimes the hinge to door has a countersunk torx bolt,(later XFs and XG XH) so that's another reason to take the hinges also. as for things to get... start a list and budget... i'd just take a good look at what's worn.. see if you can afford it all

i don't think the XD- XF are adjustable but you can bend the rod to take up some slack also.. (or straighten it if it's too tight)

if it was 180 degrees out it wouldn't have ran.. poor mechanic? if it was 180 degrees out you could have just started the leads sequence from number 1 at the new spot(opposite correct number 1) (yeah, too late for that now) it doesn't matter where number 1 is on the cap if the leads reach any spot. so you can find top dead centre number one by either winding engine over with number one plug out and your finger over the hole until pressure pushes your finger up(chestnut calls this the fanny fart) look at the balancer and wind it to 10ish deg advance.. then lift the dissy cap off, see where the rotor button is pointing and start number 1 there and go around in the firing order in correct direction 153624 clockwise start the car, and check timing..

it will work, they usually have that much slop in the mech anyway. but yeah, fix the original and it will probably outlast the car. especially if the hinges aren't worn and the door is adjusted to the striker well

@XTREME KARTS XF still got that tail light section? left side?

i didn't think they protruded that far through the nut, i'd probably have cut it off flush and got a new bolt(because i don't have a die that size, pretty sure it's same as wheel nut thread though.. so maybe i'd have cut some slots in a nut and wound that on and off a few times.. ) did well, stuff like that can really be painful, and most people would have got the 4ugga duggas and stripped the thread in the nut or snapped the bolt off.

for rwc put another button for washers elsewhere. temporary solution. permanent fix? maybe you'd best have a look at a wiring diagram, it could be a switched earth wire for washers (no idea to be honest, but been fooled by similar in the past)

cant say i have ever seen any of the electrical gear in pic(has it got electric brake controller?) as for the seat removal, why are you removing it? to replace? if so, i'd cut the loop thing on the seat if it's going in the bin.. otherwise, get under the car, wire brush the crud off the seat belt bolt, spray with CRC etc. I'd get a knife and cut the carpet around the seat belt bolt and spray the shit out of that also. then i'd rock the bolt back and forth, if it tightens back up one turn, it should be wire brushed from under again, and spray it again. that's all i've got.. unless you have a blow torch and can heat up the captive nut a bit under the car, (remembering carpet will burn in the cab if you arent careful)

very late reply, i came across this thread when i googled scratch that.. googled wrong model. googled again, tells you how to check if they are solid lifters or hydraulic also https://fordsix.com/archive/www.classicinlines.com/ValveAdj.html

if i was trying to save/cut weight in a street car falcon. on the list would be: light seats(the honda prelude ones i had once were half the weight of falcon ones) light wheels XD ghia /XC gxl lightest i've seen yet. remove heater box and maybe some of the dash frame if you were going for max savings i'd do perspex fixed rear door windows and no mechs i'd just do dry ice on the body deadener, but seriously how much weight would you save? 5kg? i'd more likely leave it in and look elsewhere. lighter bonnet might save the most weight. (chinese panels are lighter than ford ones) holesaw the bumper brackets etc even carpet doesn't weigh that much.