ando76

Very cool. With that and a GoPro inside the car you can't go wrong. I love a camera inside the car as well as the data logger as the camera records the sound of the car which can be a real help is certain applications. We use one in Jason's speedway car and it helps with set up as you can hear the load on the car. Also picked up a fuel supply issue with the camera. It showed the fuel pressure gauge losing pressure under demand. Would never have known without the camera. I love technology. Well enough thread high jacking - good luck with the sale.

E2 with .040 off measures at 47cc with no chamber mods. E2 has a lovely chamber shape. See below C1 with .040 off and a lay back of the inlet swirl to 60 degrees measures at 49cc C2 (D) with .040 off and laid back inlet swirl is 47cc C2 (D) with nothing off measures at 42cc E1 has a real open chamber like the early unmarked heads. Never measured one but they would be up at 56cc

Racepak dash coming up Jason????

Yeah very interesting chambers on that c1 head Sly, barely recognisable as a c1 head anymore. Would love to see the inlet flow figures from that head. Shame its all bolted down to that roller cam monster. Oh well as a wise man once said "I've never seen a flow bench win a race yet!".

I'm sure the E2 has a larger inlet valve than the C1 or the C2. I have achieved good flow numbers out of the E2 but as mentioned it does have a more open chamber. It really depends on what you are chasing and what comp ratio you want. I am fan of the C1 as I got one to flow within 4cfm of my E2 and that was with a few basic mods and a crappy single seat cut. As Sly has mentioned the C2 and C1 both require chamber mods in high comp and high performance use as the sharp point where the inlet and exhaust swirl creates a big hot spot.

That's all I did on the race car. removed the fixed line - took it into my local brake joint (who actually sponsors the car) and he did exactly that. Job done. Cost my time to pull the line off. About to do the same thing on Jason's race car as the xf diff has some shocking slop in the bearings. scary really. I used an EF diff in mine and just made up some alloy spacers to take up the difference in the lower control arm mount. I wanted to retain my lower control arms as they are an aftermarket square tube design with a large nolathane bush. I am not sure who made the control arms (pedders???) but they are a good piece of kit.

Apparently there is a way to change the graph size from 24 points to 30 I just can't remember how to do it. but basically you have 24 degrees of variation to what you want as total with the default graph. I just put in a couple of dots in the cranking range to lower the timing from idle. So if you wanted 35 total you have 24 points of variation to play with back from there which gives you about 11 degrees at crank or idle which should be fine for any engine. My current burnout engine which is very low comp and runs on fuel and starts happily with 28 locked. Brain not functioning real well this morning as it was a late one last night but if I get time over the weekend I will see if I can work out how to get the 30 point graph happening.

gerg I have run one for two years now in my speedway car and yes they are worth every cent. As to their reliability - no issues and mine lives in the under dash area of the speedway car and gets full of - well you can imagine. The worst I have seen one of these systems make is 15rwhp increase. Not bad for $348 &$175 US for the box and the HVC 2 coil. Is the coil worth it - hell yeah they are designed to run with the 6al2. Crazy will probably explain in technical terms the benefits of that coil but I can tell you that my meth speedway engine has never run / idle, well everything really better that what it did with that coil. To get your head around the 'run retard graph' you have to think backwards. You are pulling timing out of the dizzy with this set up. Instead of installing your dizzy at say 10 degrees you install it at 30 degrees. The MSD then retards the timing by the degrees you input into the graph at what ever revs. Say you want 10 degrees at idle - well you need to retard the timing on the graph by 20 - if you want 30 total at 3500 rpm then your graph would finish at 0 degrees retard at that rev. Once you get your head around working backwards it is a piece of piss. Unless you run nitrous of boost, you will not need the boost retard function. I do not run the MAP sensor input on mine but it would be a piece of piss to hook up as you have described. You can have several different 'tunes' or 'curves' saved on your laptop which you can then transfer into the MSD at any time you like. The actual box only holds one 'curve' at a time. You can alter that tune on the fly with a laptop. great for dyno tuning. You will need a serial port to USB adapter cord as the MSD6AL2 is supplied with a serial port to serial port cable. There are still laptops available with serial ports in them but they are hard to find and the cables are cheap enough and when you connect the two together you get a good length of cord, which is handy for getting away from the car while it is on the dyno. flying engine bits can hurt I've been told. Touch wood I have not experienced that!!!! I trigger my MSD6AL2 with an EST Dizzy but if you've got a v8 you can by and MSD dizzy that will do it or use the factory electronic dizzy I suppose. Overall I rate these things very highly. It is a bit weird seeing an XF speedway car hooked up to a laptop for tuning but this is the future and the results speak for themselves. Sly has told me on more than one occasion that these boxes were designed for Pro stock drag racing where any advantage is a big one. Enough said for me.

Yes I imagine that the poor old valve would have been in a state of shock at those rpm with that poundage, but then again these engines were built for a purpose and going to 6000 was never in the plan.

Always the simple things that get us, Tee hee. Gee that's puss spring rates - no wonder they bend pushrods - did someone say valve float.....

Definitely not. I don't attack anyone personally, and certainly not by a forum post - its just not my style. I'm sorry if I offended you. I was just trying to prove the fact that I (like you) have done this conversion and these are the issues I came across. Yes some of the issues I created by wanting to run an engine driven fan. As I said above, when I did the conversion thermo fans were not as efficient as they are now and because of where I live I needed an engine driven fan. I still believe engine driven fans are good on these old girls as it fits in with the era, but each to there own. I'm going to try thermos on my turbo x-flow sedan delivery as I believe it fits with the technology being used with that engine in that application. I ran the photo of the engine driven fan because I thought you said it was impossible, but I knew it could be done and was offering the author of the thread proof that it could be done. Once again mate, sorry if I offended you, it certainly was not my intention. I offer my thoughts, experience and pictures of my cars on this site so we can all learn from each others experience.

Ok well don't say I didn't warn you. A week - hmm we will see about that. Just thought of another way around the sump clearance issue. Add a 10mm plate to the top of the chassis fixed engine mount. Not the bit that bolts to the block - the piece that bolts to the chassis. If you use xl versions of these they have a nice flat pad to work with. You could slot the mounts to get the engine as far back as possible then weld on a piece of 10mm plate on top. The engine mounts are cast steel so mig welding to them will not be a problem. Then if you slot the holes in the x-member to lower it you would have to be well on your way to getting clearance.

Okay so I found 5 minutes - well actually I had to go in town to pick up my freshly machined block - so I took the pictures I promised. As you can see an engine driven fan is not impossible. Just follow the steps I outlined initially and you will be fine. I really should make up a shroud one day. This is the best pic I could get of the sump mod. As you can see it is real tight. I strongly recommend cutting the x-member for clearance. If you are handy with a 5" grinder with a mic hair cut off wheel you could cut the offending section out, invert it and weld it back it. Bet a roadworthy bloke would never pick it. Suggestion only. There is also the option of slotting the x-member holes a bit or even adding a piece onto it to lower it enough to give clearance.

If I get five minutes this week I'll go into the shed and take a photo of my sump on the woody for you to give you a guide. I'll also take a photo of the engine driven fan I promised the other day. Hopefully the machine shop will be finished my block on Tuesday so I will be in town anyway and can get the pics. If you have access to a TIG for the sump mods you will be miles ahead. Mig welds on sumps have to be spot on, otherwise they leak. I fill my sumps with water, then petrol and finally inox to get the last little pin holes out of them. All of the ones I have had tig welded have been spot on first time. Hmmm need to learn how to do that one day...

Well it depends on what rods you are using, what revs you intend on pulling and how good your valve train is. more revs and stock rods requires a bit more clearance than forged rods. Think rob is running decent clearance on his massive lift cam and we all know how he likes to rev. Rob's clearance??/??? Rob??????

I spoke to an engineer about cutting the x-member and welding in flat sections. He was cool with the mod provided weld quality was there and material thickness was no smaller. Not sure on the 2v head on the 170 but I reckon that would suck. Something in my head tells me that the 221 block had a smaller water pump protrusion. Now I've killed a good many brain cells since then so I may be wrong, but if you have a 221 block you may find the engine driven fan thing easier. I know where Moranbah is - good speedway out there and you guys are holding the Qld title there next year. I should be there racing if all the moons and stars align. When I did the engine driven fan thing thermo fans were not as good as what they are today. Perhaps a set of ef fans and a modified radiator support panel to take an XH radiator might be the go. I'm thinking of going that way with the turbo sedan delivery as I'm not worried about originality like I was with the woody ( 1 of 3 grey ones). Good luck

Good informative site there rob.

google plug reading. NGK and that have some good pictures to compare yours to. But as Sly said the best plug reads are done with an instant shut off after a loaded high rpm situation. Ideally this should be done with new, correctly gapped plugs installed for each change in timing, addition of fuel or change in heat range. Easy to do on the race track - not so on the street unless you find somewhere safe. As for reading methanol plugs - well that's a whole other ball game. same for E85. But I guess your talking about a street engine. With the advent of O2 sensors and wideband gauges plug reading has become a bit of a thing of the past - but I believe that using both technology and what you see with your eyes and smell with your nose is the best way. Yes I sniff methanol plugs. Yes I am weird but there is a very valid reason why I do it.

Not until x-flow. 200 in xm-xp - (super pursuit) is the same block as 144,170,200. from memory they are only 5 main cap bottom ends and the later blocks are 7, like x flow. I have a 200 SP in the shed and the sump is the same as 170 but way different from late model.

The x-member will be a problem - remember I have done this conversion. The 170-200 cu in motors are completely different to 221-250. The sump is way bigger on the later model engines. Here is a photo of the engine bay of my squire wagon just to prove I'm no keyboard expert and the second photo is of me and my wife at Summernats. If you read my display board you will see my name on it, just to prove I actually own the car. I didn't modify the x member on mine. Instead I spent what seemed like one hundred hours modifying the sump for clearance around the x-member. Having done it that way I would never do it again as modifying the x member is so much simpler and really more effective than having a lump in the sump. But you choose your way, but trust me you will have issues. Fitting an engine driven fan is not impossible. I know as mine runs one, but out of the 400 hundred photos I have of the woody, none show the engine driven fan so I will go into the shed today and take a photo of the bay from the side just to prove it is not impossible. You just need to follow the steps I outlined above, or not, your choice. I wanted an engine driven fan as I live in Cairns and it gets bloody hot up here.

pre-crossflow 250 into xm. 1. Have to modify front x member for sump clearance. Cut an inch out of it and weld in flat plate. 2. Lower front sway bar mount with 10mm aluminium spacer again for sump clearance. 3. Use XL engine mount lowers as these are easy to notch out to get the engine back far enough so that you can run an engine driven fan. 4. Use XM-XP top engine mounts but they will only pick up two of the three mounting holes in the block. 5. Ditch the idea of running a 2 speed fordomatic. They suck. C4 and buy x member from Castlemaine rod shop or mod XY x member. 6. Slot x member mounts to allow gear box to go back as far as possible. 7. Get a three core radiator cause they will over heat without one. If you are not worried about originality cut the radiator support out and fit a bigger radiator - you will need it. 8. buy a good starter blanket - you will kill starters without one. 9. As for cam - I just rang CROW and said I want a hydraulic cam with good lump at idle and good torque. Can't remember the grind but it was spot on. 10. Be ready to pull the engine and gearbox out 20 times, you will, trust me. Um if I think of anything else i'll let you know. Will dig through my squire photos to show my completed installation.

I made this for my modified so that I can change rear role centre. Since this photo I have added another two holes, one on top, one on the bottom. Not sure if this is what you are talking about but. sounds like you want different length arms to correct an alignment issue???

Gee they look a lot like AERO race rims. I run them on my modified.

Spot on clevo. Also reduces load on the oil pump which in turn reduces load on the cam. Clever dude the fella that built that engine. He can adjust the pressure without removing the sump due to mods he had made around the relief core area which allows him to wind pressure in and out thru an access hole in the sump. Like I said, very clever man.

I know of a roller-camed x-flow race motor up here that has a standard volume oil pump in it with 1/3rd machined off the standard oil pump gears!!!!!! This motor is in its 6th season without a rebuild and won the club championship last year. Enough said!! Yes I scare myself sometimes too, so you are not alone.....