ando76

On a positive note I got it to actually steer. Have a look at the before and after alignment figures. Many neglect this most basic of things, but every car needs to have the alignment correct for the application. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sadly I have to admit defeat. The convertor/flexplate in the truck is the old ball c6/c10 - 11.5 bolt circle. No one has a convertor on the shelf to suit the application. I could change to the 10.5 bolt circle and get an off the shelf convertor to do the job but then the new flexplate will have to be balanced, it could cause starter issues, and I'm still not convinced that the box isn't damaged. I've since found out the current convertor is a re-use after the box had an issue and it wasn't cleaned out. I suspect that there could be crap thru the the rebuilt box, new trans cooler etc etc. The call has been made. I'm going to park it until I can confirm the gear box condition, get a suitable convertor built and re-dyno him. Too much risk in just sending it. Others would, but not me. Too much time and money at risk, for zero reward. There is another show a month later. We will aim for that.

OGUN did hit the dyno on Saturday, but sadly it appears the convertor is junk. Was fine in the shed skid but as soon as real load was put on it, it went south. Praying we can get a convetor in time for Northern Nats on the 3rd, 4th & 5th May. The tune is close enough and with the in-car afr gauge running the same as the dyno gauge - I'm happy to run it and log everything and tune at the track. I love modified cars.......

I drove it on the road on Saturday. It has old McCreary Dirt (flat track) bias ply tyres on the back. Cool as f..k but it gets seriously squirrelly when the stall hits. Dyno is happening next week. It feels strong, the big stall should rob some numbers on the dyno but I'm keen to see what it rolls up.

Yep. Just need to improve the efficiency of the head and wind up the boost. But hey, each to their own!!!!

Make your mind up!! 300RWHP aspo will cost serious dollars and in no way will you then be able to take that engine and add boost. If you think you can - your dreaming. Pure and simple. If you want boost, build it for boost straight away. I have many customers who run boost and run fast reliable times with near stock components. They have a good combination of parts, good tune and it works. You need to make up your mind and stick to the plan or your in for a world of hurt. Both will cost dollars to do properly. Both will cost even more if you chop and change and try and make NA change to boost.

Put the inner springs in after camshaft run in. OGUN has had a bit of an update in the ignition department and a 1 gauge and o2 sensor and gauge. Couldn't get on the dyno for a bit so put a base line tune into it and gave it a quick test hit to monitor systems and see if any issues arose. Happy to report all went well, although the shifter needs a position indicator. Thank god for rev limiters and isky valve springs. Enjoy the vid. Dyno soon.

Yeah it's pretty lively and somewhat loud in person. Nah chestnut. It belongs to a good customer of mine. He is a big Ford man and this is his dig at the chev boys. Ford motor in a chev.

Mark at Aussiespeed imported one late last year and has started making products for them.

You would need a 3.9 bore to even get close to the 285 cubes used to win the aspo 6 title at this years nats. The pure expense of this bottom end is beyond the dreams of most people. Custom slugs, head gasket. Bore and sleeve etc etc. your taking serious coin. Most x flow people arc up at the price of a basic head service. But hey hey if you have the coin and it's what you want to do, why not. Im with gerg tho - why doesn't someone do a decent cylinder head for the big 300 cuber. Now that would own a lot of engines getting around.

No good. Zoran should be able to flow it for you and then you know where it's at and can make a plan from there

Should be a few down there mate. Zoran at Zok Performance would be my pick. Smart dude.

It's really down to the individual builder. As with most things in engine building everyone has there own theories of what works and what doesn't. The biggest deck height I'd ever have on an engine would be .010 with zero being the norm. I prefer a slight dished piston over a flat top, but sometimes you need a flat top. Chamber shape can be modified to assist in relieving comp. i guess it just comes down to the builders own theories and experience.

It doesn't have to be expensive. You just have to have a good plan and formula and stick to it. Doing things 3 or 4 times over does make it expensive. Luke's Cortina runs 7.1 over the 1/8 (after a tune) & 11.3 over the 1/4 (untuned) with 3.45gears. Yes it's light but it's a simple package that just works. I've detailed that package several times on here and his car is proof. Flat tappet, single four barrel with a dizzy. It hasn't been back to the 1/4 since being tuned because Luke races pro stock bike and that's his current focus. It's improved 2 tenths over the 1/8 so the next 1/4 pass with tune and gears should be interesting. The 11.3 is showing 260 Moroso hp. Exactly what is needed to run that mid 12 in the xf when everything else is right. Luke's head was done before we developed the latest ports so it would be just over the 210cfm mark. Spend your our money wisely and you will achieve your goal.

One has to wonder why you'd even consider using 7/16 stud mount roller rockers for such little lift. The reality is that Yella Terra rate their 5/16 bolt ons to 600lbs of open pressure!! No guide plates required, no additional machining costs. I've run 5/16 bolt in the real world for many years and never once pulled a rocker thread. That's in consistent high rpm engines that compete in endurance Motorsport and make decent snot. 254@.050 .584" lift Cams. Secret is good spring control and correct spring pressures. So without all the pissing competitions about lift, duration, compression and all that, let's look at this with real data and science. Your stated goal is to run mid 12's (with spray) in a daily driven xf ute, so lets look at the data and facts. * An xf ute weighs 1350kgs - 2976 lbs, which incidentaly is 120kgs heavier than a crossflow equipped TE cortina in street trim. * to run a 12.5 second pass in a 2976lb vehicle - you'd need 260 moroso hp (ref. Moroso speed calculator). * a 230@.050 camshaft with a good cylinder head (210+ Cfm) and comp around 11:1 will make 1 hp/cube at the tyres in a manual, .78/ cube in an auto with a fair stall. I built a Buick v6 with a 215@.050 that went 214rwhp thru a stalled auto. Good head and 10.5:1 comp. * a 100 shot of nitrous is a real world 100rwhp gain. Yes, it's not Street legal having any nitrous component hooked up, but in a ute you could easily hide the bottle lines etc. Now thats all assuming decent car set up and hook, but your own goal states to 'eventually' run mid 12's. So in essence a 230@ .050 with good head and comp and a shot of gas should be more than capable of running mid 12's, provided the set up is good and the car gets the power and torque to the ground. It all comes down to how much street you intend on doing and how much drag. Also how much your prepared to live with in relation to everyday driveability. I have customers that street drive 254@.050 Cams and love them. Josh recently drove his corty from Glen Innis to Yamba and back for a rod run. 3 hours each way, good cruise manners etc etc that's with 3.7 gears. Pat drives his from Port Douglas to Cairns regularly and loves it - his has 3.45 gears. Ive got a crow hydraulic in the Mad Scientist xflow. It's a 619 I had lying around 226-232@.050 on 110. It has a nice chop at idle and would I'd say is livable idle and manners. 10.8:1 comp. next year we will find out what sort of snot it makes. I think your on the right track track but I would say, don't be scared of putting some compression in her. With the ally head and a good chamber shape you'll have no detonation issues. Bit more static will help with dynamic when you get around the 230@.@50 and above range. Good igniton control (especially with nitrous), a proper dyno tune by a good operator, some attention to suspension and set up and should be well on your way. Either way, have fun with it and enjoy it.

Cool. Yeah different game with these to the good old mopar stuff. 1"5/8 is about the biggest primary tubes you'll get from the usual places. Mark at Aussiespeed does a big bore 1"3/4 primary set where you build your own secondaries. I can highly recommend them as I've seen good gains. In the new year I'll be doing some testing on various headers on the Mad Scientist x flow to show the differences. Stick to the 6al2 Programmable. Trust me you won't regret it. I've been beating on about how good they are for years on here and on my business Facebook page. Gerg will testify as to how much I beat on about them, but he has one and loves it. Especially important if it's going to be your everyday ride. With its load based (via map) timing graph you can get very good manners. Look forward to the build thread.

You can forget about over .500" lift on standard rocker gear. It's just not going to happen. Well not with any reliability. If you plan on taking it to the strip and giving it a hard time then just go straight to solid flat tappet. The 'run in risks' are the same with hydraulic flat tappet as solid flat tappet and the solid will make more power all day everyday. Roller rockers can be bought cheaply second hand so I'm not sure why you'd bother trying to make the stock stuff work way past its design purpose. 230@50 is a good starting point on camshaft tho. Your cylinder head will need decent flow but there are various porting and build threads on here to guide you in that direction. The aussiespeed 4 barrel unit is really the only choice for the power level your aiming for (based on the times you want to run). Forget the street avenger and go straight to a 650dp. Ignition control is important on these engines so I'd be going nothing less than a 6al2 programmable and a hvc or hvc2 coil. Both are rated for street use and put out decent spark. A decent exhaust to get the bad stuff out and you should be well on your way. You will need to look at keeping weight down as much as you can but your goal should be achievable.

Yep. Clarko has tooled up to make the wheels to suit x flow. He also has the magnets and msd sensors. Clarko's performance. Ive got the boss to suit Romac and Ross balancers, and I'm sure Clarko can make one to,suit whatever balancer you have.

Well the engine that came with my new shop ute has a munched cam bearing (number 2) so it is time to finally put together the 'Mad scientist' crossflow. This engine will be pieced together from left over crossflow bits from my speedway career and general hunting and gathering. Here is quick run down; Yella Terra street terra bolt on adjustables on a D head with moderate porting and a multi angle seat cut. Not really sure on the head flow figures but the engine it was on made 270rwhp on fuel so good enough. Bottom end will be a 78DA block, .030 that I picked up locally for $20. It is honed and fitted with new cam bearings and the crank is unbalanced. Slugs will be ACL 8.5cc (now 10cc thanks to inlet reliefs) 200 rod pistons on balanced 200 rods with ARP rods bolts. Camshaft is a very old CROW 619 Hydraulic. Not ideal but it is what I have and I want to finally use it. I have a new set of Clevite anti pump up lifters so they will go in with a one season old Rollmaster Double Row Timing chain. Pushrods will be a set of tapered XC factory units (they are strong little buggers). The Shop ute cam with off the shelf Lukey extractors and I have fitted a press bent 2.5" exhaust with a singe muffler (no resonator) that I had lying around. Compression should end up at 10.3:1 and I will be running an Aussiespeed 2 barrel manifold with a Keith Dorton 350 Holley initially. The plan is to build and run the engine like this and once it is 'run in', I will dyno it and see what we end up with. Then I will change to a reco 500 Holley and see what happens on the dyno. I have a dirty old CAIN four barrel manifold here and a 600DP so that will also make it's way on in the future and if I can con a new Aussiespeed 4 barrel out of Mark I will test them back to back to show how superior the Aussiespeed unit is. Whole object of this engine is to show people what can be achieved with careful parts hunting and scavenging. It wont be an all time horsepower king, but it will be fun. I will update this thread with results so stay tuned.

Yeah. Keen to finish it off and head to the dyno. I don't care if the panels aren't on it. I just want to see what it makes. Lol.

Tonys Metal and Speed. There is some cool clevo in chev rat rod in there to distract you. Enjoy.

With the business really kicking goals, it has taken way longer than I first anticipated but it finally lives. For those that don't follow the business Facebook page the reason for the sudden motivation to finish it is my wife and I have entered Targa Great Barrier Reef and we are doing it in the ute!!!! Being complete novices we are entered in the TSD class (time speed distance). This allows a max speed of 130km/h but doesn't require a cage or half cage. Penny is keen to learn rally Nav so it will be a good starting point where we can still give the old girl some currie. Rules dont allow boost so the low comp head went and I stuck the original head off old faithful on to bump the comp up a bit. She now has 10.9:1 and seems to enjoy it. The original plan of this build was to do upgrades along the way and post results and that hasn't changed. I've got a series of intake manifolds and carbs to try and I'll post the result up on here as well as on the business page. Anyway as you can see from the vid vid I still have to finish painting the old girl but at least all the rust is cut and she is reasonably straight. I plan to drive the wheels off this thing next year. Can't wait.

Nah. Same same. The castor bars go to the front on tc td and towards the rear on Te tf. On,y really a problem if you put a kick out on the drivers side of the sump (like you usually would on a speedway car). I believe the bolt patterns and half moons are identical between pre and crossflow. I have a precrossflow engine innthe back of my work ute that I have to strip later this week so I'll have a better idea but I'm certain you will be able to use pre crossflow on actual x flow.

If your going to track race it and have a tuneable ecu then I'd forget the hydraulic and go straight to a solid. Hydraulic Cams just can't deal with the rigours of constant mid to high rpm. The reality is a solid will make more power and way more reliably than the hydraulic. With the right springs you won't be doing tappet checks as often as you would imagine. The rest sounds good. Don't forget tomfactor in a half decent sump for track work.

If bang for buck is your biggest determining factor, just put a Barra in it. You could buy a whole Barra for next to nothing and install it with its loom for stupid cheap. Have a look in the member builds at the xf race car one of the members built. It goes hard. The speedway boys throw Cams and a tune at them and get 275rwhp (manually shifted) without raising a sweat. As said above, to make that power from a xflow you need to be sick in the head like me and many others on here. But hey it's horses for courses. People still build fast Holden red motors...... The Barra conversion is relatively straight forward as many have done it.