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SPArKy_Dave

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Posts posted by SPArKy_Dave

  1. Posted

    8 hours ago, Crebe said:

    Does any one know what the stock injectors are in the eb 5lt.

     

    Pretty sure the stock 5.0L injectors are 18lb/hr, and the GT ones were 24lb/hr I believe?

    I doubt injectors would cause poor starting and surging.

    I'd go after the Oxygen sensors, and also check for a stuck EGR valve.

     

    A bad MAF, can be eliminated by unplugging it.

     

    Also check the TPS voltage, plus coolant Temp sensor and Intake air temp sensor resistances.

    Excessive fuel usage is often caused by worn out O2 sensors.

     

    My 5.0L wagon, used 17L/100km and had similar issues.

    I suspect bad oxygen sensors, as I checked/replaced most other sensors first, including a new MAF.

     

    Any replaced sensors, I replaced with brand new genuine, or OEM where genuine wasn't available.

    I even had to import some from the USA, as they weren't available here at the time.

    I also tried a known good ECU, which didn't change anything.

     

    The only items I didn't check or replace, were the O2's and EGR (which I think may be stuck partly open).

     

     

     

     

  2. Posted

    6 hours ago, deankxf said:

    if it has spark,

     

    and the correct timing.

     

    Although less likely, I would consider the ignition module, and/or distributor pickup coil.

    (assuming factory XE distributor)

  3. Posted

    8 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

    cheers for the suggestions, a new battery has gone in, car cranks over fine now, but that's all it does, crank.

     

    Its got spark to the cylinders, but now seems not to be getting fuel, so that's my next mystery.

     

    I'd suggest to start by putting a 20ltr Jerry can of fuel, in the tank.

    It may just be low on fuel.

     

    Residual fuel can, still sit in the fuel filter bowl.

  4. Posted

    Model Code Description


    EF G4 Luna Mist Vinyl (Centrefold Seat Only)
    EF G1 Luna Mist Circuit Cloth
    EF G1 Luna Mist PacMan Cloth
    EF T1 Cappuccino PacMan Cloth
    EF G2 Luna Mist Formula 1 Cloth (XR)
    EF G1 Luna Mist Teak Velour (Fairmont)
    EF T1 Cappuccino Teak Velour (Fairmont)
    EF G1 Luna Mist Granite Velour (Ghia)
    EF T1 Cappuccino Granite Velour (Ghia)
    EF G3 Luna Mist Leather (Ghia)
    EF G1 Luna Mist Charade Velour (Fairlane)
    EF T1 Cappuccino Charade Velour (Fairlane)
    EF T3 Cappuccino Leather (LTD)
    EF T1 Cappuccino St Moritz Velour (LTD)
    EL G4 Mako Grey Vinyl (Centrefold Seat Only)
    EL G1 Mako Grey Hayman/Sonnet Fabric
    EL G1 Mako Grey Aerial/Pin Oak Fabric
    EL T1 Cappuccino Aerial/Pin Oak Fabric
    EL G2 Dk Luna Mist Sabre/Raceway Fabric (XR)
    EL G1 Mako Grey Fresco/Nubuck Velour (Fairmont)
    EL T1 Cappuccino Fresco/Nubuck Velour (Fairmont)
    EL G1 Mako Grey Sterling Velour/Leather (Ghia)
    EL T1 Cappuccino Sterling Velour/Leather (Ghia)
    EL G3 Mako Grey Leather/Vinyl (Ghia)
    EL T3 Cappuccino Leather/Vinyl (Ghia)
    EL G1 Mako Grey Mosaic/Veletta Velour (Fairlane Ghia)
    EL T1 Cappuccino Mosaic/Veletta Velour (Fairlane Ghia)
    EL G3 Mako Grey Leather/Vinyl (Fairlane Ghia)
    EL T3 Cappuccino Leather/Vinyl (Fairlane Ghia)
    EL G5 Mako Grey Rouched Leather (Fairlane Concord)
    EL T3 Cappuccino Leather/Vinyl (LTD)
    EL T1 Cappuccino Baroque Velour (LTD)
    EL G3 Mako Grey Leather (GT)
     

    CHESTNUTXE reacted to this

  6. Posted

    12 hours ago, Rayinsydney said:

    hello,

    I'm a mechanical numpty so please use simple words

    thanks in advance,

    Ray.

     

    I'd suggest to buy a new battery.

    That's the easiest.

  8. Posted

    17 hours ago, Crebe said:

    Has anyone got some sugestions that may point to the problem

     

    17 hours ago, deankxf said:

     

    if it has an airflow meter (assume so? mates EL V8 does) i'd start there,

     

    To eliminate the MAF, just un-plug it, and see what happens.

    it should start/run regardless.

    The computer has a base program it uses, in case of failure.

     

    If the IAC valve is sticking or gummed up, this can cause surging, by the computer constantly over/under adjusting it,

    whilst attempting to set an expected idle speed.

    deankxf reacted to this

  9. Posted

    5 hours ago, Harrison Kotrolos said:

    Hi All,

    How do those numbers stack up?

     

    4 hours ago, deankxf said:

    I can't advise any oil pressure numbers,

     

    I'm probably not one to advise either, tbh...

    I used to run my XF wagon, with the oil light flashing at idle on hot days.

     

    I just thought it must be on the worn side, till I had the bright idea to fit a new oil switch one day.

    Problem solved...

     

    At the same time, I tested the pressure with a manual gauge.

    25psi at idle from memory.

    40-50psi whilst holding revs around 3k-ish rpm.

     

     

    deankxf reacted to this

  17. Posted

    19 hours ago, deankxf said:

    King Lows with crap standard shocks ots very likely hitting bump stops .if the bump stops have been cut its likely bottom out the shock also 

     

    Just do what all the kool kids do - have it sitting on the bump stops.

    Can't run out of travel, if there is none...

     

     

    IMG_2782.jpg

  19. Posted

    U can test if it's a dodgy hose, by loosening the hose fitting directly at the caliper.

    If the seized caliper loosen's, then that's at least part of the issue.

     

    I would suggest to compare the new vs old piston seal diameter, using digital vernier calipers.

    The most recent I witnesses an issue, was with rear XH calipers.

     

    The dust seal, doesn't matter too much.

     

    We found the aftermarket brand piston seals were a smidgen larger, when compared to the originals,

    and were also slightly larger than new PBR/Bosch branded seals.

     

     

  20. Posted

    Did you fit new seals, or re-use the old ones?

    Sounds like either the caliper slides are gummed up, or the piston is sticking.

     

    Old piston seals can sometimes be slightly swollen.

    Even the new (aftermarket non-PBR seals) are sometimes the wrong size also, making the caliper piston stick.

     

    The joys of old cars. (not just Fords)

     

     

     

     

  21. Posted

    On 7/18/2023 at 11:52 AM, iamaelephant said:

    These callipers are really doing my head in -

     

    My suggestion, is to start from scratch.

     

    Disassemble completely,

    clean up the caliper body fully, including the hand brake mechanism, use plenty of silicone grease on the thread mechanism,

    new seals or re-use seals, if ok.

     

    I'd try an ultrasonic cleaner, if u have access to one?

     

    The piston dust seal goes in the caliper body first, then the piston is pushed into the middle

    and seated at it's fully compressed position.

     

    Ur likely going to need a new piston, as the damaged side surface, may catch and tear the dust seal?

    deankxf reacted to this

  22. Posted

    They almost look like XE rear disc calipers?

    From memory, the earlier ones need the axles removed, to replace the disc itself?

     

    I'd probably use some heat on the slides/bushes, before attempting to drive out the slide pins.

    Those spring clips need to be removed also.

     

    I'd probably pull them apart and fit new seals, as a minimum.

     

    Protex or IBS, are likely the only ones making new rubber kits for these calipers now.

     

    DB3099 - Left Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech)

    DB3100 - Right Piston (dual keyway piston and thread mech)

    DB2694 - (dual keyway piston, no thread mech)

    DB2925 - (later single keyway piston)

     

    K1199S - Caliper Repair Kit

     

    Ford-specific calper piston wind-back tools -

    Dual Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13875

    Single Keyway - https://www.tetools.com/disc-brake-tool-ford~13876

     

    ebay universal kit - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/303466852133 (cheap price)

     

    iamaelephant reacted to this

  24. Posted

    8 hours ago, Bob Valdez said:

    the spark plug is clean, whilst the others are sooty

    Still working on it.

     

    Sounds like it could be fuel related (or lack thereof)?

    (either injector, or injector control?)

     

    Have u tried swapping Injectors?

     

  25. Posted

    I actually have this issue, with the non-matching number engine in the XF SVO project ute...

    (crossflow six on LPG)

    Doesn't bother me, as I have a Windsor engine conversion waiting to go in.

     

    In my case, the engine runs perfect when cold, but gradually develop's a steady miss, as it warms up.

    It happens like clockwork.

     

    A compression test early on, yielded two cylinders with high compression relative to all the rest, plus oily plugs on cylinders 2,3,5 and 6.

    (no.2 the worst by FAR)

    These new plugs, had barely a handful of hours run-time.

     

    1 - 155

    2 - 152

    3 - 170

    4 - 156

    5 - 169

    6 - 148

     

    Could the issue be caused by valves not opening fully?

    I'll soon know, once I dissect the engine and measure all the clearances - to hopefully learn something myself

     

    My theory is, (in my case at least) it could only be caused by either -

    1. a faulty lifter (HLA in the case of OHC engines)

    2. a partly wiped cam lobe

    3. and/or a very slightly bent/sticking valve stem? (possible but unlikely IMO)

     

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