SPArKy_Dave

That sort of coil should be fine, just needs to be a GT40R coil - to suit a resistor wire/points system

GT40R is a 9v coil - to suit points

GT40 is a 12v coil, for electronic style ignition

15 hours ago, Searley said:

the car just Floated along in the Wind rising up and going down with a slow rhythm. And when you turned the steering wheel sometimes there was no feel or movement

reminds me of normal x-series steering... @deankxf

When I drove the $300 Grandpa XF ute back from near Maldon, (in the dark and rain mind you), it was extremely taxing to steer.

Terrible even for an XF...

I wasn't comfortable going over 80.

A look over in the following days, revealed an idler arm with no bushing left on one end.

Some further investigation, showed it'd been off the rd for almost 10yrs!

The XH seems to have a reco'd steering rack and power steering pump, plus newer lower ball joints,

but all the shock absorbers appear to be original still.

22 hours ago, deankxf said:

they are usually good for 500,000kms with a head resurface and reasonably well looked after. 

The 03/98 XH panelvan I'm cleaning up atm, has 566,000km on the original bottom end (and transmission too looks like).

Cyl head was done at 520,000km-ish.

It seems quite perky, and a COLD compression test showed an even 165psi across all cylinders.

It's the highest km XH I've ever seen.

7 hours ago, deankxf said:

wonder if that's the one @SPArKy_Dave has?

Yes, bought one of those many moons ago.

Do a key relearn, that should fix it!

2 hours ago, Grr351 said:

Did you get a answer on this sparky ?.I have the same problem 

In the end, I did.

Eventually I found someone selling a set of XB 302 V8 Manual Clutch and Brake pedals, with a proper good condition chrome shifter handle too.

From memory, the whole lot cost about $180?

Still on the hunt for a Single Rail V8 bell housing though.

Proving tough to find one!

Had an F350 once that did that... 4000rpm in 4th @100

Perhaps it's a problem with PATS?

(Passive Anti-Theft System - B-series anti-theft)

Sometimes the keys can lose their connection with the vehicle, and need to be re-programmed.

A scan tool, should be able to see if PATS is active, to prevent or allow vehicle starting.

A scan-tool should also allow easy key programming, if needed.

If no spark, look at the crank angle sensor.

Take off fuel supply hose at the fuel rail, and check the pump is priming with ign on, and/or flowing when cranking.

center clamp bolt onto steering box splines, and two bolts onto steering column.

May need to remove steering box, to change the rag joint properly.

6 hours ago, S-Pac Jake said:

Any idea where I’d be able to get a new Hall effect sensor for it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

ebay should have them -

HAL005M is the part no. (I think)

Or

Performance Ignition, in Nunawading Vic

I'd look at replacing the hall effect sensor inside the distributor.

A failing sensor, commonly causes the issue you describe.

There's only two band adjustments on them.

Front band, accessed by removing the pan, and rear band at the back R/H side, up top,

also the kickdown cable, which affects fluid pressure.

The Rear (First/Reverse) Band is easy -

Loosen locknut, tighten bolt to 14Nm, back off bolt 3/4 of a turn, then re-tighten locknut.

Front (Second/Third) Band is a bit harder -

Remove oil pan, place a 1/4 inch spacer between band servo piston and the end of the adjusting bolt.

Loosen lock nut, tighten adjuster screw to 1.1Nm, then re-tighten locknut

Parts list -

https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/BW35/

Also see this thread -

On 9/26/2023 at 4:52 PM, Banno said:

 

Hi Guys,

The selector shaft seal on a BW-40 auto how is that removed for replacement?

I used a small right angle pick tool, on the last one I did.

They're not in very tight.

17 hours ago, Crebe said:

the thingy i described is for when either the front or rear brake lines loses preasure.

I'd check to see if ur rear wheel cylinders are moving ok.

And the front ones too.

Is it drum or disc front?

Yeah, mostly have to rebuild ur original PBR parts these days.

Don't throw anything away, etc.

Could it be an over-pressure bypass, if one circuit or the other gets seized up -

ie, if a caliper or wheel cylinder get seized?

So u don't lose all braking.

18 hours ago, bear351c said:

Hi mate, "general" rule is 3/4 to 1 thousandths of an inch per inch of shaft diameter. 0.0075" - 0.001" So, a 2 inch journal can have 0.002" of clearance.

The crossflow in my XFN (Nissan) ute, had 6thou clearance on the mains... lol!

Still ran quite reasonably, too.

5 hours ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Ill go see if I can find one, Any model car to look at that you think would have a good one?

Pretty sure they're the same as all falcons and USA fords - mustangs etc.

There are new ones available.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314416055288

https://www.autoware.com.au/shop/classic-mustang-falcon-ford-pickup-parts/1979-93-mustang/fuel-1979-93-mustang/1965-86-fuel-sending-unit-filter-5-16-or-3-8-diameter-line/

https://nationalmustangs.com.au/products/1965-1973-ford-mustang-3-8-fuel-sender-filter?variant=35243107549336

https://themusclecarpartsgarage.com.au/product/sender-unit-fuel-filter-3-8/

6 hours ago, Nato of Falcons said:

Looks like Ive found the issue... this is blocked up super hard.

Sorry its taken me so long to come back to the forum, ive been really sick.

So I have a question now, if I cant unstuck this fuel sender, is there are new age equivalent?

Hope ur rebounding ok mate!

The intake tube is supposed to have a filter sock on the end of it.

They're a cylinder looking thing.

I saw someone is re-producing those sender units also.

Might be rare spares, global trim or similar, but can't remember offhand.

Will compressed air and/or a flexible rod, clean it out maybe?

As far as I'm aware, all the e-series V8's had two O2 sensors. (one in each pipe)

The wiring loom may have been changed?

Sounds like it could be a dodgy master cylinder?

I'd go for the proper PBR one.

Sticky IAC valve will cause rev-hang.

I'd try the original Ford IAC if u still have it... I never quite trust aftermarket stuff like that.

It'd be worth fitting new O2 sensor's also. (x2 on the V8's)

Once they're worn out, the only sure fix is new ones.

48 minutes ago, deankxf said:

peter Anderson (youtube) latest video has bought a ZK fairlane and it has this cupcake tray also

Lol, he has so many cars now... almost as bad as me.

I can't work out, how he fits them all in.

I reckon it could be something to do with harmonics dampening?

Compare the flooring with later year ones, which don't have the cake tray.

The design may have changed?

10 hours ago, Crebe said:

Ok NTK brand of injectors? Is that what you are talking about SPArKy_Dave ? Also i thought there was a sticker saying dont clean near the maf. What do ford recomend to clean it with. And also what is a AIC ?  and where is it and the EGR ?

IAC = Idle Air Control Valve - lives on the throttlebody - usually what causes the idle to surge

Yeah NTK brand is generally the most reliable.

U can clean the maf, with a proper maf cleaner spray - take it off, the housing, and check the tiny sensor bulb for a build up of dust/dirt

The EGR is also near the throttlebody - it has a vacuum valve and sensor attached to it

3 hours ago, Crebe said:

Ooops that O2 sensor.

once they're worn out, replacement is the only fix tbh

They're about $60 each

I'd recommend only using NTK brand - which is usually what ford used.

Cheap ones can cause issues